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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
So I’ve been getting my newly acquired 2007 z06 ready for some track days with my uncle in his 2018 Audi R8 V10
both of us are fairly new to track driving, I’ve taken a few performance driving school 5 day courses over the years so I have a tad more experience on the track than him. I need some input from people on a couple must haves before taking on that Audi.
i just pulled the trigger on some DRM bilsteins and plan to lower it on the stock bolts followed by a Pfadt street/track alignment.
I’m interested on hearing your guys “check list” before hitting the track.
Overall im pretty stoked and really eager to get this beast out on the track, I know that Audi can be some stiff competition if he can drive decently.
Before you do anything else, brake fluid flush and replace with good quality fluid. That should be the very first thing you do. Do not be the guy that cannot continue, or worse has an accident because he couldn't stop.
Always happy to hear about owners putting their C6Zs on an actual race track with turns, which is what God himself designed our cars for. Good choice on the DRMs. I'm an instructor and a racer, and here is what I tell every new C6Z guy that wants to come to the track. I also check for and inspect as much of this as I can before I sit in the right seat.
1) Get an alignment
2) If the tires are more than 5 years old or less than about 4/32nds in tread then replace
3) Flush all fluids, this includes trans, differential, oil, powersteering, coolant and clutch
4) Flush brake fluid and replace with Motul 600, unless you enjoy boiling brake fluid and crashing
5) Inspect braking system, which includes pads and rotors. The OEM pads are not meant for track use and will fade quickly. Replace (straight forward procedure) with Carbotech XP12 front and XP8 rear for the track. Rotors will last 3-5 days depending on how quick you are and how long/hard you push the car, then they will crack.
6) Remove EVERYTHING not bolted down from the car, which includes floor mats, radar detectors etc
7) "Nuts and bolts" the car, which includes axle nuts, sways, control arms, lug nuts etc
8) Ensure front grille is cleared of debris, ensure oil cooler and radiator fins aren't clogged
9) Inspect entire engine bay, ensure plug wires on seated firmly, belts are tight.
10) Inspect under-carriage of car for any signs of leaks. Check oil pan, oil filter etc
11) Our seats suck, are slippery and lack proper support. Make sure you sit IN the seat and not on it. Use cinch-mode method with seat belt to help hold you in place.
12) Ensure clutch disengages/engages normally
This is the minimum amount of prep work that should be done to your car. After this, be smooth, be confident, look ahead and pay attention to what the car is telling you on track. Happy to chat further offline if you want. If not, good luck.
C6Z on track with a good driver is a monster. AUDI R10 stands no shot, and I pass them regularly with ease.
4) Flush brake fluid and replace with Motul 600, unless you enjoy boiling brake fluid and crashing
5) Inspect braking system, which includes pads and rotors. The OEM pads are not meant for track use and will fade quickly. Replace (straight forward procedure) with Carbotech XP12 front and XP8 rear for the track. Rotors will last 3-5 days depending on how quick you are and how long/hard you push the car, then they will crack.
How much brake fluid to flush the system?
Also, what do you suggest someone do with the carbon brakes (Z07/ZR1)?
Agree with Mordeth on all accounts. However one thing he forgot to mention was to put the car in competition mode. I feel that when set to stock the nannies make the car less predictable and more dangerous since it will plow hard through corners and has a tendancy to really mess with the brake feel while AH is firing.
How much brake fluid to flush the system?
Also, what do you suggest someone do with the carbon brakes (Z07/ZR1)?
For Carbon brakes and a non-racing / non-trophy track day situation, make sure you've gone through the burnishing proceedure (this is important!). 30 consecutive stops from 0-60-0 wil do it - manual says 50 0-50-0 stops, but what I suggested will work.
That, and change the fluid and you are good to go. Do keep an eye on the pad wear, you really don't want to run them hard on the track below about 30 percent pad life.
RBF600 is not bad but requires more frequent flushing. You'll be in the brakes just about every event anyway so that's fine.
SS lines at some point but no hurry and be prepared for an install hiccup. The front lines won't always thread right in. All brands so we know it is the car.
The stock drilled rotors will crack fast once you are fast. Get spares. Blanks are the best value.
Talk to the engine guys about the valve guide issue.
· Flush the brake system with fresh high temp brake fluid. That is a must. · Clutch fluid should also be flushed (at least doing the reservoir). Although doing the clutch fluid is not nearly as important as the brake flush. · Street (stock) brake pads are probably OK as long as they are pretty new ones. Old ones with only 25% left. If you have to get new ones, look into Hawk HPS ones. Or stock will do but the thick/new pads also provide some insulation from the potential heat buildup. · Depending on how many miles are on your car, should also check for play in the front wheels (tie rods, bearings).One track day with a brand new novice student, those aren't usually show stoppers. · Tires need to have decent tread left. 3/32 or greater. · Wheel torque is usually asked to be at 90-100 ft/lbs, depending on the car.
Look this inspection form over and you can see what is verified before they issue a “pass tech inspection” sticker. Also, different clubs have different forms and inspection requirements. But all clubs require everybody get the same inspection weather they are first time at the track or in the solo run group. If you click on the link to register for a HPDE, the requirements can be read and printed out.
Hawk HPS are FAR FAR FAR from a track pad, and are not even a good street pad. Much better choices out there.
Other than that, do what Mordeth said. If car has mileage on it, and has never been raced, may not be a bad idea to pop valve covers/plugs/etc and just inspect and do a general tune up as well. Make sure nothing is funny before going. Check to make sure harmonic balancer isn't wobbling, and check all the common corvette failure points like axle nuts, end links, etc.
Always happy to hear about owners putting their C6Zs on an actual race track with turns, which is what God himself designed our cars for. Good choice on the DRMs. I'm an instructor and a racer, and here is what I tell every new C6Z guy that wants to come to the track. I also check for and inspect as much of this as I can before I sit in the right seat.
1) Get an alignment
2) If the tires are more than 5 years old or less than about 4/32nds in tread then replace
3) Flush all fluids, this includes trans, differential, oil, powersteering, coolant and clutch
4) Flush brake fluid and replace with Motul 600, unless you enjoy boiling brake fluid and crashing
5) Inspect braking system, which includes pads and rotors. The OEM pads are not meant for track use and will fade quickly. Replace (straight forward procedure) with Carbotech XP12 front and XP8 rear for the track. Rotors will last 3-5 days depending on how quick you are and how long/hard you push the car, then they will crack.
6) Remove EVERYTHING not bolted down from the car, which includes floor mats, radar detectors etc
7) "Nuts and bolts" the car, which includes axle nuts, sways, control arms, lug nuts etc
8) Ensure front grille is cleared of debris, ensure oil cooler and radiator fins aren't clogged
9) Inspect entire engine bay, ensure plug wires on seated firmly, belts are tight.
10) Inspect under-carriage of car for any signs of leaks. Check oil pan, oil filter etc
11) Our seats suck, are slippery and lack proper support. Make sure you sit IN the seat and not on it. Use cinch-mode method with seat belt to help hold you in place.
12) Ensure clutch disengages/engages normally
This is the minimum amount of prep work that should be done to your car. After this, be smooth, be confident, look ahead and pay attention to what the car is telling you on track. Happy to chat further offline if you want. If not, good luck.
C6Z on track with a good driver is a monster. AUDI R10 stands no shot, and I pass them regularly with ease.
Thank you for the check list, This is exactly what I was looking for!
When you mentioned "Nuts and Bolts" I assume you mean check for proper torque?
So I’ve been getting my newly acquired 2007 z06 ready for some track days with my uncle in his 2018 Audi R8 V10
both of us are fairly new to track driving, I’ve taken a few performance driving school 5 day courses over the years so I have a tad more experience on the track than him. I need some input from people on a couple must haves before taking on that Audi.
i just pulled the trigger on some DRM bilsteins and plan to lower it on the stock bolts followed by a Pfadt street/track alignment.
I’m interested on hearing your guys “check list” before hitting the track.
Overall im pretty stoked and really eager to get this beast out on the track, I know that Audi can be some stiff competition if he can drive decently.
What tire will you be using?
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one thing that struck me when i first tracked mine last year, was how absolutely awful the seat is (I'm accustomed to a race seat and harnesses).
...even after ratcheting myself in with cinch mode (so tight I was getting sick...lol)
So, I cut out and replaced the OE side bolsters on the seat back with some super high density stuff.
That helped, and looks stock...but the whole seat back still flops around left and right.
So, next I wedged in some sections of stair mat (3/4" thick super hard rubber) between the outside of the side bolster and console, as well as the outboard side between the seat and body.
That helped too...but my butt was sliding around. Like I said, I'm accustomed to a race seat.
Lol ya - 6'2 235 here and have 0 issues with the stock seats. No movement at all. Never understood the issue till a few other guys started saying they only weighed like 150lbs and were 5'8.
02-18-2019, 04:34 PM
Getting ready for track days
