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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
thank you for putting the brake situation into perspective for me, this makes good sense now. I guess I was giving the factory stuff too much credit on being able to hold up to some hard track use.
yes if you don’t mind I’d like to see some footage from TrackAddict. I already use HPTuners I didn’t realize TrackAddict was a free software. I have an extra iPhone I was hoping to use for the purpose or as an in-car recording device.
Sure. Here is a older session of mine on NT01s, Carbotech pads, DRMs, with no aero at Watkins Glen (before I went full race car), so video should be similar to what you will experience. This will also give you an idea of what to expect with your car and setup in a typical HDPE format. (please note that this is an "Advanced" group with passing allowed in corners and pretty much anywhere on the track. In a Novice or Intermediate group this would not be allowed as passing is restricted to certain areas of the track - usually straights). I typically practice in Advance groups in preparation for a race or if I'm instructing that day so that I can get some track time.
This is TrackAddict (video below) and then compiled in RaceRender. I can add other overlays and information if I feel like it in RaceRender, as the software from TrackAddict is recording alot of data from the OBDII and GPS, which is saved into a source file on your phone to be downloaded later. I can also change the overlay itself to different styles after the fact and move the overlay around. All of this is done in RaceRender. It automatically syncs the data, sound and video together. Pick your overlay or create your own, choose what data you want to be displayed and it creates the video with data. You don't have to worry about any of this when you actually record the video with TrackAddict. Just turn it on, go through a one time basic setup, make sure it connects to your OBDII bluetooth and drive the car. It will determine your coordinates and then start recording on it's own and save the file for later review, all the while pulling data like RPMs, speed, lap times, coolant temp, gear selection, g-force, throttle position, a track map etc etc.
You can view the video immediately on your phone but it won't show the telemetry. Later on with RaceRender you synch the data, play with the overlays and information you want shown and you get what you see below. It's a very simple procedure once you figure it out. The only thing that isn't always accurate is brake pressure, because of how our brake switch system is setup in our cars and transmitted through the OBDII. My AIM system does a better job than TrackAddict (as well as with everything), but then again it should as it's a $2k setup with a stand-alone dedicated HD video camera.
one thing that struck me when i first tracked mine last year, was how absolutely awful the seat is (I'm accustomed to a race seat and harnesses).
...even after ratcheting myself in with cinch mode (so tight I was getting sick...lol)
So, I cut out and replaced the OE side bolsters on the seat back with some super high density stuff.
That helped, and looks stock...but the whole seat back still flops around left and right.
So, next I wedged in some sections of stair mat (3/4" thick super hard rubber) between the outside of the side bolster and console, as well as the outboard side between the seat and body.
That helped too...but my butt was sliding around. Like I said, I'm accustomed to a race seat.
Would you mind posting your thoughts after trying the Angelwings? I assume those just get wedged into place and aren't secured to the car in any way, right?
Sure. Here is a older session of mine on NT01s, Carbotech pads, DRMs, with no aero at Watkins Glen (before I went full race car), so video should be similar to what you will experience. .
Through T10 in the high 70s. Brings back some good memories of when everything was a lot cheaper!! Now we would think the car had stopped running.
Isn't that the truth....everything looks to be in slow motion or a 20 minute cool down lap when I watch that now. Lol...I also notice that alot more money was in my wallet back then.
Would you mind posting your thoughts after trying the Angelwings? I assume those just get wedged into place and aren't secured to the car in any way, right?
Will do...but my car will only wake from hibernation in early April (for a test fit)...and 1st actual track use will probably be early June.
They look like they won't move around at all. There's a 'tongue' that goes in between the seat cushion and back rest, as well as a strap that gets hooked over the inside seat belt anchor.The outer cushion gets squashed in by the door when it closes.
It'll stay put ...the question is, will 'I'?
My qualm is, that as tight as they look like they will fit around me, the density of the foam may actually cushion and absorb some of the car's movement.
I like the SOTP feel that a hard race seat provides, making it easier to detect the slightest motion of a car. It makes corrections easier by conveying movement that much earlier and accurately to the driver. As an analogy, kinda like suspension reacts quicker with solid bushings, vs squishy rubber....and doesn't 'wind up' like a spring.
So, I am fairly certain that I will be replacing the foam with some of the same super high density stuff i used in my seat back side bolsters. But, I'll figure that out.
The seats, while comfortable for cruising, have been the single largest disappointment since acquiring the car and frankly, make it very awkward to drive on track. At least for me. Glad I stumbled on these though...
Will do...but my car will only wake from hibernation in early April (for a test fit)...and 1st actual track use will probably be early June.
They look like they won't move around at all. There's a 'tongue' that goes in between the seat cushion and back rest, as well as a strap that gets hooked over the inside seat belt anchor.The outer cushion gets squashed in by the door when it closes.
It'll stay put ...the question is, will 'I'?
My qualm is, that as tight as they look like they will fit around me, the density of the foam may actually cushion and absorb some of the car's movement.
I like the SOTP feel that a hard race seat provides, making it easier to detect the slightest motion of a car. It makes corrections easier by conveying movement that much earlier and accurately to the driver. As an analogy, kinda like suspension reacts quicker with solid bushings, vs squishy rubber....and doesn't 'wind up' like a spring.
So, I am fairly certain that I will be replacing the foam with some of the same super high density stuff i used in my seat back side bolsters. But, I'll figure that out.
The seats, while comfortable for cruising, have been the single largest disappointment since acquiring the car and frankly, make it very awkward to drive on track. At least for me. Glad I stumbled on these though...
Yes, I do understand what you're saying. My next time out will probably be in late April. Your feedback may not be in time but I'll be watching for it. Thanks.
Does anyone use amsoil transmission and/or differential fluid? I was planning on using 15w-50 Mobil 1 but had a question whether it is safe to start a motor with this oil in it if temperature is < 30 F. I don't drive my car in winter but may have to move it around in garage for doing work on other cars.
Does anyone use amsoil transmission and/or differential fluid? I was planning on using 15w-50 Mobil 1 but had a question whether it is safe to start a motor with this oil in it if temperature is < 30 F. I don't drive my car in winter but may have to move it around in garage for doing work on other cars.
What oil temps do you see on track? Here is what I currently use (and I have tried many, many combinations over the years). I have an aftermarket oil cooler and run my car at sustained WOT for hours on end at a stable 265 degree oil temp as a reference.
The Premium Protection 10w40 has 1265 ppm phophorus, 1378 ppm zinc, HTHS of 4.3 (almost as high as M1 15w50 but obtained with lower viscosity) and viscosity at 212F of 14.6. I abuse my car in endurance, race conditions with extreme and severe duty and drive cycle. I've examined all of the critical, oil needing parts on my motor including bearing surfaces, piston skirts, crank journal, cam etc and am pleased with the results. I also send regular oil samples to Blackstone and cut open all of my filters for examination.
You shouldn't pick an oil for track use based on ambient conditions that exist during infrequent moving of the car in your garage during storage. So separate these things in your mind. If you plan on starting your car once in a while when there is freezing temperatures then use a cheap oil heater blanket on the dry sump tank to bring up the oil temps before starting and make sure to prime the oiling system. Or just push it out of the way. It's a non-issue that shouldn't be considered when choosing the correct oil for track use (where temps commonly exceed 250 degrees, and can go to 300 degrees). If you lose hydrodynamic lubrication and the oil becomes unstable then say goodbye to your bearings. This is one reason why a quality oil with a proper amount of ZDDP, shear stability and viscosity at the required operating temp is important for track use.
If you decide to go with Amsoil and want any help in buying it let me know.
What oil temps do you see on track? Here is what I currently use (and I have tried many, many combinations over the years). I have an aftermarket oil cooler and run my car at sustained WOT for hours on end at a stable 265 degree oil temp as a reference.
The Premium Protection 10w40 has 1265 ppm phophorus, 1378 ppm zinc, HTHS of 4.3 (almost as high as M1 15w50 but obtained with lower viscosity) and viscosity at 212F of 14.6. I abuse my car in endurance, race conditions with extreme and severe duty and drive cycle. I've examined all of the critical, oil needing parts on my motor including bearing surfaces, piston skirts, crank journal, cam etc and am pleased with the results. I also send regular oil samples to Blackstone and cut open all of my filters for examination.
If you decide to go with Amsoil and want any help in buying it let me know.
i haven’t gone on track yet, so I don’t have temperature data. My C6 Z06 is stock and wanted to change all the fluids before the event this April (engine oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid, tranny, rear differential)
I was thinking of using 0w-40 oil instead of the 15w-50 since my car does sit in garage over winter and does need to be moved occasionally. I saw good Blackstone oil reports for Mobil 1 0w-40 in this forum. I haven’t heard of 10w-40 amsoil being used before. Do you have any Blackstone oil reports you can share?
Only other thing I am doing is mounting new MPSS tires and getting carbotech XP12/XP8 pads front/rear.
For brake fluid I use castrol SRF
It will be my dads first time on track with the Z06 so I don’t expect the car to get beat hard. He has tracked before with a 1996 993 Carrera for years.
i haven’t gone on track yet, so I don’t have temperature data. My C6 Z06 is stock and wanted to change all the fluids before the event this April (engine oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid, tranny, rear differential)
I was thinking of using 0w-40 oil instead of the 15w-50 since my car does sit in garage over winter and does need to be moved occasionally. I saw good Blackstone oil reports for Mobil 1 0w-40 in this forum. I haven’t heard of 10w-40 amsoil being used before. Do you have any Blackstone oil reports you can share?
Only other thing I am doing is mounting new MPSS tires and getting carbotech XP12/XP8 pads front/rear.
For brake fluid I use castrol SRF
It will be my dads first time on track with the Z06 so I don’t expect the car to get beat hard. He has tracked before with a 1996 993 Carrera for years.
Castrol SRF has the highest wet boiling point of any brake fluid. This is what matters since once you open the bottle its exposed to humidity and dry boiling point doesn't matter. Best fluid hands down compared to stoptech, ate type 200, motul, etc.
I don’t know what you are talking about. As the above post says, SRF has the highest wet boiling point of all the DOT 4 fluids out there. I only use SRF for my track Z06. I run Laguna Seca and Thunderhill which can be hard on brakes.
I don’t know what you are talking about. As the above post says, SRF has the highest wet boiling point of all the DOT 4 fluids out there. I only use SRF for my track Z06. I run Laguna Seca and Thunderhill which can be hard on brakes.
AP Radi-CAL R4, better specs and easier on the wallet.
02-20-2019, 10:09 PM
