GndHog

My C6 ZR1 modifications list - goal is full time track racer/TT car that can go around COTA at 2:10 or so




Speed bleeders on all calipers

Pagid RSC1 pads all around

SS brake lines

Pfadt camber kit

Pfadt HD sway bars front and rear

LG Rear tow hook

PFADT Front tow hook

GS1R 18” wheels with R7’s mounted

Front bump steer kit

Rear bump steer kit

ARP wheel studs with gorilla lug nuts

Tunnel heat shield

2”x3” kooks headers

Kooks cat-less x-pipe

Sparco Egro seats

6 point harnesses

Shark bar harnesses bar (remove when roll-bar arrives)

RPM roll-bar 6 point with rear hoop

Solo 2 DL w/ smartycam GP

QA1 vansteel DA coilovers 800/750

Pfadt spherical bushings

Moog ball joints x8

Billet pedal covers

SS brake lines

ARP wheel studs with gorilla nuts

DSX Flex fuel sensor - car to run on E85

K&N cold air intake

iD1050 injectors

Prospeed Reinforced bricks

ZERO deg thermostat (removed internals)

Ron Davis radiator (big AF)

Edelbrock heat exchanger (modified with 1” inlet/outlet)

Prospeed billet 3/4” inlets

Kong divider

10 gal rear mount ice/water tank

AFCO C7 exchanger (modified 1” inlet/outlet) - rear mounted

All 1” lines on exchanger system except just before bricks

Reprogrammed EMP pump 24 amp 4500 rpm

Meth/water injection w/ 7 gal rear tank (100% water to be injected)

Auto-blip rev matching

Hinson short throw shifter

DEI TI wrapping on headers and X-pipe

Castrol SRF brake fluid

Elite engineering Dual catch can system

Replaced polycarbonate vent window with function louvered vent

Dual vent inserts on hood also

Custom made front splitter 5” out from stock carbon fiber splitter

Custom front brake cooling system

APR GT-1000 wing bumper mounted

DC power 270 amp alternator for ZR1




Will play with blower pulley sizes upon successful AIT temp reduction mods from above - maybe go 15-17 PSI vs stock 10 PSI. Initial AIT’s with stock pulleys should not get above 110-120F after full 20 minute session (at least that’s plan). With have essentially 4x the heat exchanger area as stock with 2X flow and 10x system volume.




First pass engine/cooling mods should put 625-650 HP to ground - need closer to 800 rwHp to go 2:10 lap at COTA....




All sorts of videos of everything done so far in car in my channel - remaining upgrades and more track time videos coming.....

I brake for nothing

Cool project.

Can you share what Prospeed charges to put the 1" inlets on the Edelbrock heat exchanger ?

Also have you considered selling off the ZR1 hood and getting an aftermarket extractor hood. The ZR1 hood is worth quite a bit as I understand it.

Innovate

A7 instead of R7 if you are chasing time. Swap to C6Z brakes or AP Racing as your CCB's are worth a ton and steel would be cheaper to swap for track days.

GndHog

Prospeed fabrication rate is $125 per hour - took less than 30 minutes to put the 1” on the Edelbrock exchanger.

yes, A7’s later after car all settled out - R7’s to get some track miles in to set everything up.

tried to sell Hood for $4000 - no takers. Going to replaced plexiglass with louvred insert and add side vents just behind radiator - yes going to dremmel a couple openings.....

also tried to sell brakes before - no takers.....looked at AP racing brakes already - rotors will have about same life as stock and are $450 to replace vs. $1100 for CC rotors. Plus there’s a weight savings with the CC’s.

just wrapping plumbing routing for rear tank, rear pump to front and back - will post up video of how it all came together - changed a few things but not much...

GndHog

Jayfabs

Nice build!!

Mordeth

The rotors are not steel. They are iron. And the hat is billet aluminum. And the calipers are forged aluminum. There is no steel in the construction (except for minor bits like through-bolts, pistons and lines), nor should there be. They are referred to as an "iron brake" setup - not a steel one. And going to C6Z brakes would be a significant downgrade. And he should only move to A7 when he is actually racing or qualifying as they heat cycle out very, very rapidly (I know this because I use all of these tires on my C6Z, not because I read about it). For testing, HPDE and most 30 minute sprint racing the R7 is superior as it is almost as grippy as A7 yet takes many more heat cycles and is easier to manage tire temps. I only put on the A7s when I need to set my fastest time and I only have a few laps to do it (as they come up to temp VERY quickly and are super grippy before they fall off).

Great build OP, sounds like you have matters well under control. Looking forward to your results and thanks much for posting! Always love to see a C6 on the track, especially a built C6ZR1! I'm not sure where you are located but if you are anywhere in the Northeast we should hook-up. I am at pretty much every track (WGI, NJMP, Limerock etc) all season long either racing or instructing and would love to see your car. Either way, fantastic build with much attention to detail - and thanks for the vids! Subscribed.

Innovate

I mixed up the metals lol. I am sure it would be a downgrade, I mentioned it because of cost. I mentioned A7's since he wanted a certain time. R7's are perfect for track days/30+ minute races. I have buddies who do run A7's in ST2 for whole races at a time though lol.

GndHog

Located in Houston but might head up to Mid-Ohio for NASA nats - if I am ready....working on second car that will be a STU monster....the ZR1 is trainer car....lol

2nd car get built out in AZ by a former NASA national champ who now builds cars for living - car will be close to 2 lbs per wHP......I pick his brain all the time on the ZR1....

from first session at COTA in car back in August - brakes were more than adequate - needed good fluid purge and some better cooling up front - all of which is on the mod list. Engine got hot AF - 260+ coolant and close to 285 oil temp - needless to say backed off at that point - so main focus has been getting temps down. Will see how the Ron Davis radiator does - it should have close to 60% more cooling capacity than stock - and will help all around.

the LS9 heat exchanger system as it comes from factory is a joke - its just not made for sustained hard driving. AIT2 and coolant pulled timing.....will need more HP to get lap times down and raising boost easiest way to get there - provided AIT under control

taking my time to do ZR1 right and if something doesn’t look or feel right - it generally gets changed...

Innovate

Sweet, other car a C6? I may put mine on track to play around one day, I just sold my track toy.

Buddy of mine has a TIKT system on his 850 rwhp Vengeance built ZR1. From what I have heard he has no cooling issues on track. I think he was at Sebring a couple of months ago.

Mordeth

Sounds great. Fighting heat is a never ending battle on the track especially with a blower strapped to the top. I am always battling heat and I am N/A with less power than you. Once you have adequate capacity in the coolant system, a pump that works well but doesn't pump coolant too fast out of the radiator (you need the water to pause in the radiator to be cooled) and a good radiator, then the next and most significant way to influence temps is with airflow. You need to ensure that the radiator is sealed and that air has a direct path to the radiator and then out of the radiator. Any gaps can allow hot air to stick around longer than it should and also allow cooler, incoming air to travel around the radiator rather than through it. Adding capacity doesn't help beyond a certain point - it just delays the inevitable (overheating). You need airflow and you need a very good oil cooler, as if the hot oil cooler is near the radiator it will super-heat the air passing through it and raise coolant temps. Also run straight water with water wetter. That alone is worth 5-10 degrees.

I will likely be at Mid-Ohio for Nationals. Hope to see you there.

GndHog

Other car is a FFR Coupe-R with a 5.2 XS FPP crate motor with twin turbos running on E85 - will easily put 1200+ Hp to the ground. There’s build thread over at FFR forum with all the details (yes, it’s basically a Ford....) gettting AP racing brakes, Penske shocks etc etc etc

For the ZR1 - venting the hood in three places and have sealed up around radiator inlet to force all the cool air through vs. going elsewhere.

take heat management pretty seriously - check out the OCD level in the exhaust...…

Racingswh

Impressive build. Serious goals. What are your lap times at COTA now and in what?

GndHog

First time there was a Chin track day - crowded...actual best lap was 2:32 in lot’s of traffic. Put a composite lap together from data - best times in several segments - was 2:25 piecing that together. Hit 165 mph on the back straight several times...The ZR1 got hot AF after about 2 hard laps so eased up a bunch to let it cool down. Spent lot’s of time at Bahrain GP and Yas Marina while working over seas for last 5 years......

Racingswh

Very nice. You may want to speak with the Gspeed guys if you aren't already. They have COTA figured out pretty well.

Anything sub 2:20 is rolling pretty good. Mid teens for a car that is in the hands of an amateur is really ripping and the fastest are typically low teens. Once you get into the sub 2:10 range you're in GTLM territory with times anywhere from 2:04's to 2:10's depending on the car and driver.

Like all cars that are truly fast power alone doesn't make them that way as is shown by the GTLM cars. Chassis development plays a huge part.

Good luck with your build and your quest!! Have fun along the way!!

Innovate

Holy crap you're serious serious haha. If you lose with that thing something is wrong. I have never seen a car over 1k on a road course and those were AIX cars. A buddy has one with a pushrod 5.0 with a cam that feels fast haha.

My ZR1 is fast at Yas Marina. On Forza 7. Lol, I know that had to of been a blast though.

GndHog

Brake cooling ducts all lined up on bumper

lobsterroboto

Not sure if Feras posts here but him and his prepped C6 Z06 just won super lap battle in his class with street tires at 2:18.588

A well prepped ZR1 with A7's I would very much like to see run at COTA.

Is there not pictures of OP's car in this thread?

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GndHog

From first COTA session

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/f321b015-c68d-4f81-b090-a7789a75d559

GndHog

APR GT1000 wing bumper mounted

Wing from rear

Wing inside fender wells

Extended 5” splitter

From bottom - 12 mounting points

New L88 hood with extra venting