2009 ZR1 Oil Change
03-13-2019, 05:28 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
2009 ZR1 Oil Change
Hey guys, I'm having to get an oil change on my ZR1--I'm planning on taking it to the local Chevrolet dealership. Anything I need to be aware of, concerned with, questions I should ask before I commit to doing it? It doesn't get driven much, but I've had it for a 1 1/2 years now and it was done at another place when I bought it, but I figure it is time to go ahead and do it now. Thanks in advance.
03-13-2019, 05:50 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
If you are insistent on taking your beautiful ZR1 to a dealership to change something as simple as the oil (which can be done in your garage in 30 minutes), then make sure the tech who is doing it understands the following:
1) You have a dry sump oil system that holds approximately 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30
2) The car needs to be lifted properly, using jacking pucks and with careful regard to protection of your side-skirts and rockers
3) The system is drained using TWO bolts (drain plugs) on the oil pan. Both bolts must be removed to properly drain the system.
4) The correct oil filter is UPF48R.
5) The system is RE-FILLED using the dry sump tank in the passenger engine bay area (not the valve cover)
6) Add ~10 quarts to tank cold, then warm car up and check oil level at dipstick and add additional as needed
You need to speak directly to the actual technician that is doing the oil change, not the service writer and you need to be specific. If they don't properly drain or overfill or use the wrong filter or don't know where to fill from or don't check oil level hot or lift the car incorrectly then you will have a problem. These problems are a common phenomena when inexperienced dealer techs are allowed to work on $100k vehicles and don't understand (or don't care about) very simple things about our oiling system or the protection of your car (which is why you should spend 30 minutes in the garage to acquaint yourself with your car and change the oil properly).
Also, they should not drive your car and should perform no other work other than as specified exactly above.
1) You have a dry sump oil system that holds approximately 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30
2) The car needs to be lifted properly, using jacking pucks and with careful regard to protection of your side-skirts and rockers
3) The system is drained using TWO bolts (drain plugs) on the oil pan. Both bolts must be removed to properly drain the system.
4) The correct oil filter is UPF48R.
5) The system is RE-FILLED using the dry sump tank in the passenger engine bay area (not the valve cover)
6) Add ~10 quarts to tank cold, then warm car up and check oil level at dipstick and add additional as needed
You need to speak directly to the actual technician that is doing the oil change, not the service writer and you need to be specific. If they don't properly drain or overfill or use the wrong filter or don't know where to fill from or don't check oil level hot or lift the car incorrectly then you will have a problem. These problems are a common phenomena when inexperienced dealer techs are allowed to work on $100k vehicles and don't understand (or don't care about) very simple things about our oiling system or the protection of your car (which is why you should spend 30 minutes in the garage to acquaint yourself with your car and change the oil properly).
Also, they should not drive your car and should perform no other work other than as specified exactly above.
03-13-2019, 07:01 PM
#3
Safety Car
Mordeth look like you know what you are saying. Great advice for anyone owning a Vette. Thank you
03-13-2019, 09:07 PM
#4
Drifting
Your probability of something going wrong is diminished if you find a dealer that sells and services plenty of Vettes...including dry sumps.
Last edited by TXshaggy; 03-13-2019 at 09:08 PM.
03-13-2019, 09:35 PM
#5
Team Owner
If going to the Dealership, it is 100% your requirement to remind every employee you see anywhere near your car, items 1, 3, and 5 below. Sad, but true...
If you are insistent on taking your beautiful ZR1 to a dealership to change something as simple as the oil (which can be done in your garage in 30 minutes), then make sure the tech who is doing it understands the following:
1) You have a dry sump oil system that holds approximately 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30
2) The car needs to be lifted properly, using jacking pucks and with careful regard to protection of your side-skirts and rockers
3) The system is drained using TWO bolts (drain plugs) on the oil pan. Both bolts must be removed to properly drain the system.
4) The correct oil filter is UPF48R.
5) The system is RE-FILLED using the dry sump tank in the passenger engine bay area (not the valve cover)
6) Add ~10 quarts to tank cold, then warm car up and check oil level at dipstick and add additional as needed
You need to speak directly to the actual technician that is doing the oil change, not the service writer and you need to be specific. If they don't properly drain or overfill or use the wrong filter or don't know where to fill from or don't check oil level hot or lift the car incorrectly then you will have a problem. These problems are a common phenomena when inexperienced dealer techs are allowed to work on $100k vehicles and don't understand (or don't care about) very simple things about our oiling system or the protection of your car (which is why you should spend 30 minutes in the garage to acquaint yourself with your car and change the oil properly).
Also, they should not drive your car and should perform no other work other than as specified exactly above.
1) You have a dry sump oil system that holds approximately 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30
2) The car needs to be lifted properly, using jacking pucks and with careful regard to protection of your side-skirts and rockers
3) The system is drained using TWO bolts (drain plugs) on the oil pan. Both bolts must be removed to properly drain the system.
4) The correct oil filter is UPF48R.
5) The system is RE-FILLED using the dry sump tank in the passenger engine bay area (not the valve cover)
6) Add ~10 quarts to tank cold, then warm car up and check oil level at dipstick and add additional as needed
You need to speak directly to the actual technician that is doing the oil change, not the service writer and you need to be specific. If they don't properly drain or overfill or use the wrong filter or don't know where to fill from or don't check oil level hot or lift the car incorrectly then you will have a problem. These problems are a common phenomena when inexperienced dealer techs are allowed to work on $100k vehicles and don't understand (or don't care about) very simple things about our oiling system or the protection of your car (which is why you should spend 30 minutes in the garage to acquaint yourself with your car and change the oil properly).
Also, they should not drive your car and should perform no other work other than as specified exactly above.
03-16-2019, 10:19 AM
#7
Racer
If you are insistent on taking your beautiful ZR1 to a dealership to change something as simple as the oil (which can be done in your garage in 30 minutes), then make sure the tech who is doing it understands the following:
1) You have a dry sump oil system that holds approximately 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30
2) The car needs to be lifted properly, using jacking pucks and with careful regard to protection of your side-skirts and rockers
3) The system is drained using TWO bolts (drain plugs) on the oil pan. Both bolts must be removed to properly drain the system.
4) The correct oil filter is UPF48R.
5) The system is RE-FILLED using the dry sump tank in the passenger engine bay area (not the valve cover)
6) Add ~10 quarts to tank cold, then warm car up and check oil level at dipstick and add additional as needed
You need to speak directly to the actual technician that is doing the oil change, not the service writer and you need to be specific. If they don't properly drain or overfill or use the wrong filter or don't know where to fill from or don't check oil level hot or lift the car incorrectly then you will have a problem. These problems are a common phenomena when inexperienced dealer techs are allowed to work on $100k vehicles and don't understand (or don't care about) very simple things about our oiling system or the protection of your car (which is why you should spend 30 minutes in the garage to acquaint yourself with your car and change the oil properly).
Also, they should not drive your car and should perform no other work other than as specified exactly above.
1) You have a dry sump oil system that holds approximately 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30
2) The car needs to be lifted properly, using jacking pucks and with careful regard to protection of your side-skirts and rockers
3) The system is drained using TWO bolts (drain plugs) on the oil pan. Both bolts must be removed to properly drain the system.
4) The correct oil filter is UPF48R.
5) The system is RE-FILLED using the dry sump tank in the passenger engine bay area (not the valve cover)
6) Add ~10 quarts to tank cold, then warm car up and check oil level at dipstick and add additional as needed
You need to speak directly to the actual technician that is doing the oil change, not the service writer and you need to be specific. If they don't properly drain or overfill or use the wrong filter or don't know where to fill from or don't check oil level hot or lift the car incorrectly then you will have a problem. These problems are a common phenomena when inexperienced dealer techs are allowed to work on $100k vehicles and don't understand (or don't care about) very simple things about our oiling system or the protection of your car (which is why you should spend 30 minutes in the garage to acquaint yourself with your car and change the oil properly).
Also, they should not drive your car and should perform no other work other than as specified exactly above.
The following users liked this post:
chassed (03-16-2019)
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Admiral94 (03-16-2019)
03-16-2019, 04:02 PM
#9
What's with the comment the guy made within the link chassed kindly added?
It states the removal of of the inlet and outlet hoses on the oil tank is required, or you leave 3/4 quart of dirty oil un-drained. It also states you have to remove the right tire and wheel well liner for access. Is anyone familiar with this or has done this?
03-18-2019, 05:11 PM
#10
Racer
I had a cat fail under warranty a few years back on my ZR1 and since I had to go to a dealer for that, I asked how much for a dry sump oil change. $70 was the answer and I was looked at like I was stupid when I asked if that was for the 10.5qt change and not the 6qt wet sump. He said "all Corvette oil changes are $70" so I said "sign me up!". I then asked if they had the UPF48R filter in because (originally) only the LS9 needed that filter and it was common to be out of stock, and was again looked at like I was stupid and was told "We know what we're doing and have all parts in stock". Mmmmmkay.... After the change I had to argue with the service manager when the price was $110 not $70, and that they put the wrong oil filter on (standard blue PF48). After getting it home and jacking it up the filter had "removal" scrapes so I'm pretty sure they put the old filter back one but I can't prove it.
Although my failing knees and back surgeries make it painful to get under a car, I'm now back to changing my own oil to never allow this to happen again. If you must let the dealer do it, it's still better than a "quick change" place and follow the advice already listed here and your experience shouldbe better than mine, but if they don't let you talk to the actual service tech that will do the change, run....
Although my failing knees and back surgeries make it painful to get under a car, I'm now back to changing my own oil to never allow this to happen again. If you must let the dealer do it, it's still better than a "quick change" place and follow the advice already listed here and your experience shouldbe better than mine, but if they don't let you talk to the actual service tech that will do the change, run....
03-18-2019, 06:03 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
This is great info for a new owner of a Z06. My last vette was a C4, and this was definitely a concern of mine, as I've always changed the oil myself on my vettes.
What's with the comment the guy made within the link chassed kindly added?
It states the removal of of the inlet and outlet hoses on the oil tank is required, or you leave 3/4 quart of dirty oil un-drained. It also states you have to remove the right tire and wheel well liner for access. Is anyone familiar with this or has done this?
What's with the comment the guy made within the link chassed kindly added?
It states the removal of of the inlet and outlet hoses on the oil tank is required, or you leave 3/4 quart of dirty oil un-drained. It also states you have to remove the right tire and wheel well liner for access. Is anyone familiar with this or has done this?
I try and search and search as much information as possible...
he should have lifted the rear to level the car out...even though he does mention it...taking the sump lines off is not required from what I've researched...I try and use as much common sense as I can LOL
As long as you are using the GM recommended oil and changing it regularly...I think you will be fine...
You can level the car all you want until it stops dripping...But the internals will still be generally coated with your old used oil...IMO as long as the majority of the oil is fresh...How can you lose?
Last edited by chassed; 03-18-2019 at 06:08 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Admiral94 (03-24-2019)
03-18-2019, 06:20 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
If you do the oil change yourself, use a torque wrench to tighten down the drain plugs. The plugs have a rubber gasket and unless you like to prematurely replace them torqueing them to the proper spec will keep them sealing the pan for a long time. 18ft/lbs. is the proper torque for the drain plugs.
When the front plug is draining I like to lift up the back higher than the front to get ALL the oil out of the pan, and when I do the driver side plug I slightly lift up the RF side of the car again to get all the oil out. I also let it drain for like an hour or so (30 minutes for each plug) that usually gets most of the oil out.
You will find that if you do that and you add your 9.9 litres (10.5 quarts) on your 09-up Z06/R1 you will probably need to add another 100-150ml of oil to have it at the proper level once warmed up...…………….that's the extra oil that doesn't drain out if you don't tilt the car at the back and side when the plugs are removed.
Tony
When the front plug is draining I like to lift up the back higher than the front to get ALL the oil out of the pan, and when I do the driver side plug I slightly lift up the RF side of the car again to get all the oil out. I also let it drain for like an hour or so (30 minutes for each plug) that usually gets most of the oil out.
You will find that if you do that and you add your 9.9 litres (10.5 quarts) on your 09-up Z06/R1 you will probably need to add another 100-150ml of oil to have it at the proper level once warmed up...…………….that's the extra oil that doesn't drain out if you don't tilt the car at the back and side when the plugs are removed.
Tony
