J02ws6transam

Hey guys. I have a 07 z06 that i recently put a new clutch, pilot bearing and clutch slave in. The clutch works perfectly with no issues. I have about 1k miles on the clutch. About two days after i put the clutch in I started noticing a slight rattle when idling in neutral. Push the clutch in and it goes away. It has gotten louder over the past 2 weeks and not sure if the torque tube bushing could be worn? When i took the transmission out, i checked for play in the torque tube and it seemed fine, but I did not take it all apart and look at everything. Wish i did now. I will post a video of the noise standing under the transmission. Just curious what you guys think it could be. Weird it only started after i put the clutch in. I did also just install a supercharger on the car so maybe the extra power is wearing out a already worn part that now it needs replacing? With the car running on a lift it sounds the loudest in the transmission but hard to pin point exactly since the torque tube bolts to it and can easily transmit noise through the whole drive train.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jon

J02ws6transam

Ttt for tonight if anyone has heard this before

Undy

Assuming you replaced the clutch with a twin disc clutch this is 100% normal. It's just the nature of the twin disc. The floater plate is rattling.

J02ws6transam

Thank you for the response. Yes it was a twin disk from act which is supposed to have these anti rattle metal spring clips to keep them from rattling. If the rattle is normal thats fine I am just curious. Now one question i have if you dont mind, my knowledge of clutches would tell me that when the clutch pedal is pushed in, wouldn't that be when it would rattle vs when the clutch is up? When the clutch is up, wouldn't that everything be tight and engaged? Im just trying to better understand this. I really dont want to pull everything back out thinking its the torque tube and rebuild it and that wasn't the problem.
Thanks for the help
Jon

Undy

When the clutch is out the floater plate is unloaded. When the clutch is pushed in the floater plate is loaded (no rattle).

J02ws6transam

sorry for the stupid question, but when the clutch pedal is out wouldn't the floater plate be engaged to the other discs to hold everything together while driving?

Perf n Restore

Not really....
Think about how the dual disc clutch works.....On a dual disk clutch assembly, you will have a “floater plate” and a second clutch disk. The floater plate acts as an intermediate flywheel between the clutch disks. The floater plate sits into notches built into the flywheel so they rotate as a single unit. Dual disk clutch assemblies are notorious for making a lot of rattling and clanking noise when at idle and whenever the pedal is depressed. The noise is a direct result of the floater plate vibrating when there is no load on it. At that time the clutch is dis-engaged and the "floater" floats between the two discs and can rattle. Once that clutch pedal is up, the pressure plate clamps the two discs and the floater to the flywheel. The "floater" cannot rattle at this time.

C6Z06Silverbullet

Just went through this same situation. At first I thought it was the floater plate and just didn't bother with it. What you need to do is lift up the car start it up and get under it. This way you will know exactly where your noise is coming from. Mine ended up being the torque tube bearings. Good Luck!

J02ws6transam

Thanks for the info, Thats what I had done, sounds like towards the rear of the torque tube and transmission area. That video i posted the car was on a lift and it sounded the loudest at the rear of the torque tube. Guess time to pull it back out and take a look.

C6Z06Silverbullet

That's exactly where my noise was, I only have 8,000 miles on the whole car. When they took my torque tube out the rear bearing blew all the grease out and left a ring around the inside of the torque tube. Physically the the bearing felt and looked fine. We just rebuilt the whole tube, noise is gone!

pjazz

I had a noise like that on my c5 never bothered me that much and I thought it was normal.

TRSCobra

I've had this noise ever since I changed out the first clutch to a twin disc RXT. Bothered me at first but then I got used to it. In the years since, I've changed to another twin disc clutch (RPS BC2), rebuilt the torque tube with new bearings and couplers, upgraded the trans to a RPM Lvl 7 TR6060 and still get this noise. Unless it gets significantly louder or you feel something vibrating, I wouldn't worry about it one bit.

Apocolipse

Stock clutch does this too. Its actually a harmonic coming from the transmission rattle that is exaggerated through the solid mounted torque tube.

J02ws6transam

Well thanks for everyone chiming in. It makes me feel a lot better about it. I will keep a listen to it and just make sure it doesn’t get any louder. I have the parts to rebuild the torque tube so I’ll watch it for the season and then maybe in the fall I’ll take it out and rebuild it
thanks again
Jon

Apocolipse

I just rebuilt mine - new bearings and bushings - same noise before and after.

J02ws6transam

Interesting. Good to know. Thanks!!!

Apocolipse

Most welcome!

jimbob8915

I put in a new Monster LT1-S clutch and replaced all three bearings and couplers. All new parts an very noisy. I have bought a used factory drive shaft with low miles I plan to put in to see if that helps. I took my kid for a drive an she asked me what was wrong with the car because of the noise. I am at 540 to the wheels and might just go with a ZR1 clutch.

Apocolipse

How rough is your idle? Get the tuner to smooth it out (mainly spark correction).

Larry Myers

My 63,000 mile ZO6 driveline had become somewhat noisy and at times difficult to shift. Because the car had a high number of track miles and made 610 horsepower, decided to replace the oe clutch, transmission and overhaul the torque tube.

Of course there was a discussion about what clutch to use. We decided a duel clutch was the way to go, but which one? I was adamant that it not rattle. So we selected the LS9X clutch, Kateck pilot bearing, oe slave cylinder and ARP fasteners. The car already had the GM revised master cylinder so we didn't touch it.

Replaced the oe transmission with an RPM Level V.

On the torque tube utilized the RPM overhaul kit that includes the bearings, scraper and the rubber couplers.

Drives like brand new. No noise. Smooth shifts. Extremely pleased.



Aw crap. Orginal post over a year old. My bad. I hate when this happens.