silverboost98

I have been a victim of the dreaded hot/start and voltage issues with my C6Z several times now. I have a new battery, rebuilt my alternator, and put a heat sheild along with the gold heat shield tape on my starter. Now that it's hot again I am once again getting voltage issues at idle when it's 90+ outside and I am in stop in go traffic.

Who of you on here has ran a lead directly from the alternator to the fuse box under the hood? Was it simple as just running the 4 gauge wire over and making the connection or was their other things you had to do as well?

Thank you,
Mike

philadd

I did it on mine. I have a 1 positive cable (fused) going from the alternator to the fuse box, but I also have 1 ground wire going from the block to one of existing ground points. I haven't seen my voltage dip below 13.6 V since.

seamus2154

I bought a Mechman alternator and while talking with the vendor he recommended just that-- a new 4 gauge from alt to fuse box. They sold a nice one with nice covering--I am at 14.6 all day.

STL Mike

Same here. Problem solved.

Also had my tuner remove some crank timing to make starting with heat soaked starter easier.

Jaybird29

Question, are you guys running stock exhaust manifolds or headers?

Must_Have_Z

I've done the same as above. I'm running ceramic coated Kooks headers. My mechman alternator is great, and my voltage is always 14.xx.

philadd

My voltage with the added wires usually stays between 14.2-14.4. After sitting through bad rush hour traffic in 95+ degree heat, the idle voltage dips down into the upper 13.x range. This is with an OEM alternator.

Coated Kooks headers.

RichieRichZ06

I'd run larger than 4 gauge wire, especially if you're routing the charge wire around the engine. Resistance goes up significantly with heat so 4 gauge is good for 80* temps, but when under hood temps are double that, the resistance goes up dramatically. We used 0 gauge fine strand welding wire for mine and put a 175 amp slow blow fuse in line. We also added additional grounds from engine to frame, alternator case to frame and from my battery to roll cage.

meanjoe

Is there a diagram somewhere for this modification? I'd be interested in doing this.

phxcobra

This thread is appropriately timed. Just bought a new billettech alternator from Bret with wire upgrade. My symptoms
-dropping voltage at idle when hot
- hot start up issues

Steps I'm taking
-putting on starter heat shield (lingenfelter)
-replaced ground wire from above starter to frame as it was partially torn/cut into
-cleaned off paint from above ground point and two others on l/r sides on engine bay. Thought I'll get a better connection without going through the paint that was on these locations
-170 amp alternator and bypass wire
- will check other ground locations as well and clean as needed

I'll report results when done.

STL Mike

Let us know how well that works. I'm in the same position with the factory starter heat soak.

My starter cable that handles power from the battery is cracked. Any idea who may sell a replacement without having to fab one up?

silverboost98

Appreciate all the feedback. Any of you got any pics you can attach so I can see your set up? Also is an inline fuse necessary to run if going from the alternator to the fuse box?

phxcobra

Unreal (sorry I always forget his real name) here on the forums hooked me up with his old ground cable that runs parallel to the starter/battery cable. He redid his wiring with custom made and had his old ground wire left over. Maybe send him a pm and see if he has one to sell. I looked all over online for the ground wire and couldnt find one. Probably either fine a used one or make your own i guess.

philadd

I don't have any pics at the moment, but most people just route it underneath the driver side fuel rail cover and then along the firewall before going to the fusebox.

I separate fuse is probably not necessary, but I figured it couldn't hurt. I'd rather replace that fuse than any other possible issues with the fuse box.