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A lot of metal shavings on oil pan drain plug

 
Old 06-22-2019, 06:38 PM
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SilverBulletC6Z
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Default A lot of metal shavings on oil pan drain plug

Hey everyone,

Recently I rebuilt my LS7 as I was having low oil pressure issues, now after putting about 350 km on the rebuild I am changing the oil for the second time. First time I had no significant shavings aside from the normal fuzz, now the front drain plug had a large amount of shavings almost like a small section of steel wool. The drivers side plug wasnít as bad but still had a decent amount of fuzz on it.

I was curious if anyone has seen anything like this, my gut is telling me to pull the motor and inspect for damage. Will cut the oil filter open shortly to examine as well.



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Old 06-22-2019, 07:08 PM
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ss2z06
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I’m sorry to say but that does seem to be excessive. I’d cut open the oil filter and inspect. When you had it rebuilt what was the original failure? What did you replace/rebuild?
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:33 PM
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SilverBulletC6Z
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When I rebuilt it I did so because the engine had low oil pressure, the engine had seen another failure two years ago and was repaired then as well.

The first failure was because of incorrectly installed lash caps, that ended up destroying a piston so I pulled it apart and replaced the piston and put it back together without extensively flushing the oil cooler and such. A year later the oil pressure was 12-15 psi at idle, so I figured it was on borrowed time.

Pulled it apart and found the oil pump scored, bearings in terrible shape and the crank was slightly scored. So I polished the crank, replaced the main, thrust, rod and cam bearings. Honed the cylinders and threw new rings on the pistons. The rods appeared to be in excellent condition. New oil pump, oil cooler and all oil lines. Cleaned out the dry sump tank as well, didnít find too much sludge in there.

Put on a new set of PRC 265cc heads, a Texas speed stage 4.2 cam, reused a C6R chain as it was in great shape. New rockers, lifters, gaskets and bolts. Been trying to tune the car with Efilive and havenít been able to get speed density only working. Have to rely on the MAF to maintain an idle or car just stalls out immediately.

I have put the new oil in now and will run the car for another couple hundred kms and then inspect to see if itís accelerated or has begun to settle out. The oil pressure isnít any better following the rebuild also, I never had the crank turned down so I could use oversized bearings so I expected it to be lower but didnít figure it would be basically the same before the rebuild.




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Old 06-22-2019, 08:43 PM
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C6Z06Silverbullet
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That sucks man, doesn't look good. That is shavings for sure.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:09 PM
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That sucks man, it looks like a rebuild.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:10 PM
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Default Shavings

A lot of times the metal goes everywhere from dry sump tank to oil cooler unless you flush it out. This may be from prior situation.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:27 PM
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SilverBulletC6Z
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This rebuild I did end up using a new oil cooler, new oil cooler lines, new dry sump lines and I disassembled the tank and cleaned it so it should have been clean this go around.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:42 PM
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It sounds like you did the rebuild properly. I was concerned about the oil tank and cooler which you covered. You mentioned the oil pressure hasn’t improved. Does that mean you are still 12-15 psi? What is it at upper rpms? I guess at this point I’d go with what you’re currently doing and watch it. Change the oil again soon. What did the filter look like when you cut it apart?
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:18 AM
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Well if you cleaned everything out and you are still finding metal is something going on. Maybe run thicker oil because of clearances and hope the metal flakes subside sounds like you did the right clean out procedure. How is pressure hot day 200 degrees at 5000 rpm.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:34 AM
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time to take it apart again
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:39 AM
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Yeah I was initially using 5w-30 conventional oil but I am using 20w-50 this time to see if there is an improvement on oil pressure.

Unfortunately the oil pressure doesnít seem to go much higher than 45-50 psi at higher rpms (5-6k rpm) although it does respond fast when applying the throttle.

I will be cutting that oil filter open shortly and will post a couple photos. Will also be interesting to see what the oil pressure changes to by using the 20w-50.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:54 AM
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To quote you...

I never had the crank turned down so I could use oversized bearings so I expected it to be lower but didnít figure it would be basically the same before the rebuild.

Always check with plastigauge, you are working with .0000 here,tenths of a thousant of an inch. If a motor has taken out the rods or mains, have the crank ground is a given. I'm sorry to say, but saving a few bucks at that point has bitten you squarely in the ***. And I'll add, when you get the crank back, it may look clean, but it needs the wash and blow dry at least twice before it goes on the block.

Consider a line hone job on the block and having it decked. Done correctly it will be better than new.

Last edited by Mike44665; 06-23-2019 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:09 AM
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Used plastigauge on a few of the mains and found between 0.002-0.003Ē clearance and figured it was roughly in the middle of the service clearance. I didnít get the crank turned because I couldnít find any local machine shops that I could trust, had a hard enough time finding a shop to balance the flywheel to the old one.

As you said, saving the cost of shipping it out and having it turned down has most likely bitten me in the ***. I just wonder what the shavings are coming from they donít look like bearing material.
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:20 AM
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Default Shavings

Maybe pull valve covers see if any clues there.
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:22 AM
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Save yourself the time, I know it sucks but just pull the motor.
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by C6Z06Silverbullet View Post
Save yourself the time, I know it sucks but just pull the motor.
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:24 AM
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I can understand your position of not trusting someone to do machine work. I sometimes forget how nice it is to have machine shop close by that has been here for more than 60+ years with a good reputation as long as you are not in a hurry......... There is also a old company that has been regrinding crankshafts for years, they send the new bearings with the reground crank, no errors.

If I sounded harsh, and I did, please accept my apology.
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:45 AM
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If machining locally is the problem, why not just buy a ready to run crank? You can find aftermarket cranks (better than stock) for reasonable funds. What kind of budget are you on? Since the motor has to come out anyway, I bet all of your bearing surfaces are scored (cam, lifters, mains, rods, cam bearings, oil pump georotor, etc.). A crate motor may be your best option...AFTER cleaning your oil cooler and lines, and tank again. Bad news all around man, I know...but like the old saying goes, "It's cheaper to build it once the right way, than it is to build it over and over."
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:50 PM
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73DBG
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A shitty shop I used originally used 20W50 oil trying to increase oil pressure and mine was in the 25-30 range at idle time of potential issue, that ďgear oilĒ they used made other issues tell on themselves faster...luckily I found a good engine builder/machine shop. Did the motor correctly this time, he was very specific about the limited and tight clearance of the main bearings and how that 20W50 was way to damn thick to oil properly especially on start up, upping weight to chase pressure according to him very bad idea, if 5W30 or 10W40 wonít work than the pump needs to be addressed. You seem to know a good bit, probably way more than me but it sounds like we started at similar situations, I did replace all lines and parts that oil ran through when I did my rebuild, dry sump itself wasnít replace but cleaned I didnít have anywhere remotely close to this amount of metal on my first 3 changes post build and blackstone reports are promising and moving in the right direction. 55-60 psi on start up, around 20 psi at idle with oil temps 220+ I havenít seen hot oil over 230 yet, donít road course the car so not gonna see temps any higher. I run Amsoil signature 5W30 and wouldnít ever go any higher then 5W40 10W40 if I did think I was gonna see extended 230+ oil temps.

Sorry to hear this I think I followed your original post since I went through similar issues around the same time last year ago or so. **** sucks for man, not much more to say about it unfortunately
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:05 AM
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Not sure why there wouldnít be the same in the filter, but that doesnít mean your motor is borked. It could be debris from the previous incident and, with luck, it is being filtered out and settling in the pan.

Although it might be chewing up the pump.

If it isnít leftover from before, Iíve seen the sides of the connecting rods get chewed up and maybe thatís whatís happening here.
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