dstage

Sounds like you need a stroker motor. I would do a built 402. Then you can boost the hell out of it and spray the house down. Your motor prob went cause your tune sucked. If you had a AEM you could have watched it. Also a hyper pack is very nice. I have a TT kit and run 11 psi all day long. I have had the car towed six times from the track from breaking drivetrain parts. Now I am currently have a fully built tranny and rearend installed by RPM. Next will be axles and built motor.

LS2BYU

You can't tune out of boost/compression. Ignition timing means nothing when the mixture self ignites.

excessive81

katech builds the c6r motors....that who i would call

kelp

How would that happen? Even at 3 bar with an intercooler, you have to have spark or some catalyst for the reaction. Makes me wonder if nitrous was used.

dstage

I agree But I dont think he was running higher than a 10 pound pulley

K1911

- I did not use any NITROUS.
- The Pulley was also the standard.
- I have 42" Fuel Injectors. These also came with the D1SC package.

Before the purchase I read all the forums about Procharger and we have done the mounting step by step by the instructions. Everything was perfect until the broke down.

Our technician is not a beginner. He built several top US cars. You can check it www.ssmotors.hu

The problem is, we have several ideas what has really happened, but we are not sure any of them:

These are:
1. Too High Compression
2. Bad Gasoline Quality (not likely)
3. Sudden change at high RPM to lower gear (I do not remember such thing)
4. Too high engine temperature (usually it was appx 204F)

YOU CAN FIND ALL THE PHOTOS IN HIGH RESOLUTION: ftp://ftp.acomp.hu/pub/Vette/HIRES/

MachineWorks

You should have had 60lb injectors. Did you have a kenny bell boostapump? I am looking to do this set up from MTI.

Baselbieter

i would also consider you're tune too be way off the right afr's.

Rebuild the engine, use a wideband lambda/Afr Scanner and
also a boost gauge.


Sorry for you, what a shame!!!

valdeztke

X - what a funny song to play on a motorsport site.

Pio

Sounds like too much boost, too little fuel and the tune. If your going to try a new motor, I suggest you look into the new L92 motor. Its great bang for the buck. I have that set up in my o3 - forged and punched out to 6.8 liters, makes 730+ rwhp and 680+ rwtq with just under 10 lbs of boost.

Good luck

Sportsdude

There's a enginge builder in Germany. If you are interested, I can find out the address. One of member in the German/American Corvette had his engine completed there. I ran my Procharger at 7 PSI with 100 European Octane (I think it is 94 = to USA) with no problem. My car runs @ about 200-220 depending on the ambient teperature. The installation and tuning on my car was all done in the USA. I had paid the extra $$ to ship the car to the USA and back. Does Hungary have a certified technicians to do modifications on Corvettes? The last time I was there, It ddin't appear to be.

K1911

In Hungary You can buy Corvette at official places. The main dealer is http://www.polarmobil.hu/ . They sell all cars with 3 Years warranty, but not mine because of the Procharger.
They sell European Corvette modells. The main differences as I know, the cooling is slightly better in the European models, but I am not sure in it. My car is European also.

I sent a letter to Procharger days ago, but NO ONE answered me until now. Perhaps a client is important for them only till he buys the unit.

kelp

Thank you for the excellent photos. I disagree with it being lean. There is crap all over the place and your exhaust looks like a coal stove. I am suprised your valves held up as well, they look about ready to go. Who datalogged your tune? Is this one of those Predator tuning jobs? You would have trouble with this mixture no matter who built your motor, and irregardless of the quality of components. Do you have a dyno of this setup with a wideband after the installation?

valdeztke

I think your tuner deserves a nice bitch slap to the face


Why the hell you are calling procharger I have no idea

K1911

I do not call anyone.
Just sent an e-mail to Procharger about the situation.
May be they know what could be the problem, and give all of us advices avoid such damages.

vertC6

Man I am sorry to hear about your damage, but everything is fixable and you can make it better than ever.

As far as your D-1 choice IMHO it is the best choice to have gone with, with the 4.625 pulley it should make 7-8 psi not 10, you need a 4.25 to make 10psi, and if you want to run lower boost you simply go with a 5" pulley and run 6 psi. In addition you have a better belt wrap and future boost capabilities over the P-1.

From everything that I have learned over the last several years is that whether your runing 5 or 15psi the tune is EVERYTING and to do a proper tune it must be done with a wideband on a dyno to dial in timing, A/F etc... I would never trust sending off my computer for flashing, I would never go with a SC without dyno tuning. We have guys here in Texas making 700rwhp+ on stock motors with no problems. I don't know if you have access to any good tuners where you are but that is where I would start once you put in the new motor. And if it is tuned right you don't have to go with a real low compression motor, all you do then is lose your bottom end. If I built a forged motor it would be around 10.5:1. And don't forget to add the meth for added safty. Good luck

vertC6

Oh and yes you should go with 60lbs injectors with a KB Boost a pump.

0EPP

We have seen C6 Corvettes run lean it a boost a pump is not used.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=30
Fuel pressure did not stay up on this C6 that we installed an ATI ProCharger P-1SC-1 on, so we added a boost a pump. If your installing did not check your fuel pressure, and your air/fuel at wide open throttle, then this could of been the problem. Before EFI Live had the LS2 tuning available, we did our LS2 tuning through Ed Wright at Fast Chips. Mail order tunes can take going back and forth two to three times to get it nailed down, which is why you need the gauges.


http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=694
MSD boost a pump

There are three gauges that I consider useful. Boost, fuel pressure and a wide band air/fuel ratio gauge.

Here is the pillar pod for the three gauges. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=799

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1081
AEM Wide Band Air/fuel ratio

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=816
Autometer fuel pressure

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=822
Autometer boost gauge

Hopefully this helps. Bob

kelp

Good advice.

I am still waiting from the dyno, particularly the wideband AFR from this great installer of his. I have never seen such large installations as this not followed by this basic measurement.

LS2BYU

Did you consider that ProCharger is trying to reply to you here but you're not listening?

YOU HAVE TOO MUCH BOOST FOR YOUR OCTANE/TUNE.

The supplied Ed Wright tune is for at least 91 octane US and 6 psi. It is not suitable for Hungarian pump gas and 10 psi of boost.