Melted fuse block question@ fuel pump fuse
03-19-2009, 12:12 AM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Melted fuse block question@ fuel pump fuse
TTT My fuse block melted out the fuel pump fuse.I've got a KenneBell Boosta-pump.I read something in this section awhile back.It burnt the fuse so bad it ruined the fuse block at the fuel pump fuse.As I remember other people were having this problem. The car ran fine last fall.I took it out for the 1st time yesterday.And of coarse it quit running.Also looking for a used fuse block,cover, and relays.06 Z06.Thanx for any help.Thanx for info so far.Ck'd all wiring not finding anything wrong.I've got a new fuse box coming Monday.UPDATE,got the new fuse box in,used a circut breaker instead of the 20 amp fuse.It heated up right away.I'm baffled.
Last edited by Luweegy; 03-22-2009 at 01:26 AM.
03-19-2009, 07:03 AM
#2
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Location: Winter Garden Florida
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I have not heard of this before on any of our cars. Did you have to put in a higher amp fuse?? If not did you pull the fuse for some reason and put it back in??
Normally the fuse side of the fuel pump just runs the relay side of the BAP and should not have that much amperage going through it. And even so it should pop the fuse before melting everything.
Now if a higher amp fuse was installed and it is a direct power to the pump via the BAP, I can see it happening. But that fuse should only power the relay on an off, not power the actual BAP or pump.
If for some reason the fuse was removed improperly and loosened up the connections, then some "arching" could occur from a bad or loose connection and at low amps actually heat things up quite a bit and cause a problem.
Hope this helps.
Mike Norris
Normally the fuse side of the fuel pump just runs the relay side of the BAP and should not have that much amperage going through it. And even so it should pop the fuse before melting everything.
Now if a higher amp fuse was installed and it is a direct power to the pump via the BAP, I can see it happening. But that fuse should only power the relay on an off, not power the actual BAP or pump.
If for some reason the fuse was removed improperly and loosened up the connections, then some "arching" could occur from a bad or loose connection and at low amps actually heat things up quite a bit and cause a problem.
Hope this helps.
Mike Norris
03-19-2009, 12:03 PM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
It was the stock 20 amp fuse.I never even was in the fuse box before this,The BAP was put in last year at a shop in Texas. I put a new fuse in but the prongs are so warped it wouldn't start the car.It looks like the BAP wires are connected in the next module over from this module.Thanx.
03-19-2009, 04:04 PM
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I had the exact same thing 3 different times it turned out that the resistance from the fuel tank to the bap was the problem. It was solved by soldering the wires rather than the crimp conectors by the fuel tank. Also the fuse coming out of the bap was replaced with a circuit breaker, since then no problems,
03-22-2009, 01:19 PM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I had the exact same thing 3 different times it turned out that the resistance from the fuel tank to the bap was the problem. It was solved by soldering the wires rather than the crimp conectors by the fuel tank. Also the fuse coming out of the bap was replaced with a circuit breaker, since then no problems,
New update BAP was bad.Disconnected it and it is fine now.Thanx for the help.
Last edited by Luweegy; 03-25-2009 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Fixed
06-06-2009, 11:37 PM
#6
Member: Jr Geezer's Club
