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Pinning the Crank

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Old 05-05-2011, 01:44 PM
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mrgillies
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Default Pinning the Crank

Hi All,

While looking at the instructions from Edelbrock, the procedure to pinning the crank requires the use of some specialist tools:

DT-47731 Transmission Oil Cooler Quick Disconnect Tool
J-42188 Ball Joint Seperator
J-42385 A Flywheel Holding tool

How do you guys go about getting these parts or is there a different way to get around without using these parts? I know some shops (from searching google) have their own way to pin the crank but they don't disclose their procedure.

I'm going to be removing the radiator to install a dewitts so hopefully that should give me some more room. I intend to take a ton of pics and post them in the How to do section.

Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated

Peace

Steve

Last edited by mrgillies; 05-05-2011 at 01:47 PM.
Old 05-05-2011, 02:15 PM
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5 Liter Eater
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These are more commonly known as:

Small Screwdriver
Hammer
Big Screwdriver
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
These are more commonly known as:

Small Screwdriver
Hammer
Big Screwdriver
I was thinking that myself...
Old 05-05-2011, 04:12 PM
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0Steve@AandACorvette
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
These are more commonly known as:

Small Screwdriver
Hammer
Big Screwdriver
Old 05-05-2011, 05:14 PM
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BluV
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
These are more commonly known as:

Small Screwdriver
Hammer
Big Screwdriver


Yep - funny Edelbrock says that actually. All FI kits require pinning. But my A&A kit did not require special tools to do it. Don't remember needing a hammer either...but did need a band-aid or too. You know it's not right if you haven't made your blood sacrifice yet....
Old 05-05-2011, 05:18 PM
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There is a much easier way to gain access to the crank to pin it than what is in the Edelbrock instructions. The other method involves loosening the 4 engine cradle nuts and allowing the cradle to hang loose and then removing the two engine motor mount nuts (all are accessed from below) and lifting the motor with a floor jack. It will cut hours off of your install time!

I talked about it a few months back in this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575847339-post37.html


Instructions with pictures start on step #56 here http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manu...ntercooled.pdf




MUCH EASIER AND A LOT LESS MESS!



Last edited by Motorhead-47; 05-05-2011 at 05:25 PM.
Old 05-05-2011, 05:59 PM
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is this the same for LS7 and is there enough room to do a cam swap as well with out removing the rack completely?
Old 05-05-2011, 06:45 PM
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Motorhead-47
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Originally Posted by gregs94
is this the same for LS7 and is there enough room to do a cam swap as well with out removing the rack completely?
Unfortunately you need to drop the rack to get the harmonic balancer off for a cam swap.
Old 05-06-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
There is a much easier way to gain access to the crank to pin it than what is in the Edelbrock instructions. The other method involves loosening the 4 engine cradle nuts and allowing the cradle to hang loose and then removing the two engine motor mount nuts (all are accessed from below) and lifting the motor with a floor jack. It will cut hours off of your install time!

I talked about it a few months back in this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575847339-post37.html


Instructions with pictures start on step #56 here http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manu...ntercooled.pdf




MUCH EASIER AND A LOT LESS MESS!


You never let me down, How many beers do I owe you now?
Old 05-06-2011, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
There is a much easier way to gain access to the crank to pin it than what is in the Edelbrock instructions. The other method involves loosening the 4 engine cradle nuts and allowing the cradle to hang loose and then removing the two engine motor mount nuts (all are accessed from below) and lifting the motor with a floor jack. It will cut hours off of your install time!

I talked about it a few months back in this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575847339-post37.html


Instructions with pictures start on step #56 here http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manu...ntercooled.pdf




MUCH EASIER AND A LOT LESS MESS!


Just finshed my A&A install without removing the power steering rack.
Old 05-06-2011, 11:20 AM
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be sure to get that alignment checked after loosening any cradle bolts.

-Carl
Old 05-06-2011, 11:22 AM
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Nice one. I'm guessing you can't remove the actual balancer this way though right? so a cam swap is out.
Old 05-06-2011, 01:20 PM
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Sure you can. I swapped my cam by lowering the cradle.
Old 05-06-2011, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Sure you can. I swapped my cam by lowering the cradle.
...but you did (disconnected/unbolted) more than just loosening the 4 cradle nuts right?
Old 05-06-2011, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by carlrx7
be sure to get that alignment checked after loosening any cradle bolts.

-Carl
A guy could always argue that any time you touch anything related to the front suspension you should have the alignment checked but in this case, just loosening those 4 cradle nuts and then retightening should have virtually no impact on your alignment specs.
Old 05-06-2011, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
...but you did (disconnected/unbolted) more than just loosening the 4 cradle nuts right?
Well you do have to pull the radiator, damper, oil pump, etc and all that fun stuff.
Old 05-06-2011, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Well you do have to pull the radiator, damper, oil pump, etc and all that fun stuff.
Actually what I was hinting at is do you have to knock loose the upper or lower control arms or pull any other front suspension pieces to be able to lower the cradle enough to get clearance to get the balancer off?

What I described above (just loosening the cradle nuts and lifting the engine) only gets you a couple of inches.

Last edited by Motorhead-47; 05-06-2011 at 04:22 PM.

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Old 05-06-2011, 04:32 PM
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When I pinned the crank on my 06 vert I lowered the sub frame/cradle and raised the LS2 per Motorheads procedure. While I had room to pin the crank, I don't believe I would have been able to get a puller on the crank pully or have been able to remove it without pulling the steering rack. The cradle was lowered approx 6/8 of an inch (nuts left in place at the end of their bolt threads), and the engine raised high enough that I had to remove the Oil Pressure Sending Unit so it wouldn't contact the firewall. When installing the E-Force I made a mental note of this fact in the event I would want to upgrade my cam in the future. How far were you able to lower your cradle? I loosened all four bolts of the cradle and the motor mounts and had to pry the cradle/sub-frame away from the frame in order to obtain room for the crank pinning process.
Old 05-06-2011, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BluV


Yep - funny Edelbrock says that actually. All FI kits require pinning. But my A&A kit did not require special tools to do it. Don't remember needing a hammer either...but did need a band-aid or too. You know it's not right if you haven't made your blood sacrifice yet....
...big hammer to give the side of the spindle a quick rap to drop the steering links from the spindle. That ever so ?gentle? rap deflects the spindle just enough to pop the steering link free without touching the link! Works great....usually.

Harbor Freight has a 4lb hammer with a very stubby 7" handle that works great for these type of tweaks

Item # 98258 "4lb Drilling Hammer"...a whopping $12.99

Last edited by Motorhead-47; 05-06-2011 at 04:51 PM.
Old 05-06-2011, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mrgillies
You never let me down, How many beers do I owe you now?

Just one


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