realcanuk

We had the blower off more than 5 times during this fiasco and had no trouble torquing. You just need a 1/4" torque wrench.

Motorhead-47

I use a 1/4" drive 6-point socket and a universal joint. It is snug but it reaches them all. The universal screws with the torque setting so I use the old "goot-n-tite" method on those fasteners.

ITSGRAND

Have a 1/4" torque, but the swivel sockets want to pop off the bolt heads when I start applying torque. I wish the bolt heads were made just slightly taller with less rounding off on the corners.

jimbob8915

Could those oil lines just be tapped an plugged?

realcanuk

I dont understand what your referring to.

ITSGRAND

Yes, they can be but you don't wanna do that unless the engine is out of the car. There's pretty much no way of doing it in the car and not getting shavings places where they shouldn't be. If a "built" motor is being built, these often are tapped since they serve no purpose for non DOD motors.

Luv2Fly

Glad it is all over realcanuk, and I did not break anything during installation Who would have thought it was coming right up through the valley plate. Hope all is well.

realcanuk

Hey... how ya doing... I know you didnt !! I get all the luck. Car was perfect and that dam plate had to be defective. Then the problems began.

mrgillies

Hey Guys, thanks for posting this, Ive had my SC off twice this weekend trying to find this damn leak, I installed mine 6 weeks ago so it must have been one of the batches with issues, guess Rob @ Edelbrock is gonna get a call tomorrow

realcanuk

Rob will send you a new plate right away but its a good idea to crank the engine for a minute when you remove the blower. That will build enough pressure to see the leak and confirm that's the issue. Good luck

mrgillies

Engine is back together just now (DD), I'll do as you said before I remove the plate, like the previous OP said, it started with a couple of drips and progressively got worse, I wish I checked the forums before I removed the SC on Sat and again today

mrgillies

I checked Edelbrocks latest installation instructions (see below)

Part 154. Remove the tape covering the intake ports. Since
two of the stock manifold bolt hole provisions in the
cylinder heads break into the crankcase and are not used
with this supercharger, install the two button head bolts
supplied in Bag #3 in the front passenger side and rear
driver side bolt holes to ensure a good seal. With the
assistance of one or more people, lift the supercharger
assembly onto the engine.

My instructions said add a dab of silicone to those holes, I'm going to see if Rob can supply me the 2 Button Head Bolts, I was thinking thats where it was leaking from the 1st time I took it off

realcanuk

We used silicone and no bolts also. There was no leak there on my car. I don't think there is any pressure there. If your getting puddling on the valley plate I would bet its the plate. I assume you checked the pressure switch first thing as they have been known to leak also.

mrgillies

There is def. no oil coming from the pressure switch, the puddle is in exactly the same location as the ones on this post and my SC delivey date seems to be about the same time as the the one here.

realcanuk

Like I said. I'd bet its the plate. The one on this post is mine so I know what your going through. Good luck.

ITSGRAND

They overnighted my plate last Friday and I received it on Monday. The oil leak had again gotten bad enough today that it left two 8" puddles after a 10 minute drive. It's literally pouring out of there. I just started ripping everything apart a few minutes ago and hope to get it swapped out tonight.

realcanuk

Wow. Thats nuts. I was getting a few drops every morning. Hope thats the fix. Good luck. Keep us posted.

Boomer111

Edelbrock has a great reputation to uphold, I would be surprised if they turned their back on this. After all they basically are aftermarket and as such I considered them being in a luxury oriented industry.

mrgillies

Spoke with Art @ Edelbrock on Monday, replacement plate was overnighted, arrived Tuesday AM, I've became a dab hand at removing the SC, took 3 hrs from start to finish on Tue Evening, glad to say no more oil leak since then. My leak was also getting pretty big towards the end.

I must say that I got great service from EB, would liked to have seen them throw in something for my hassles (T-shirt etc). I'm lucky I didn't have a 3rd party do my install, I dread to see what that would have cost in labor. On removal of the plate I can see the pinholes from the underside that were causing the leak, checked the new plate and made sure there wasnt any flaws at the high pressure areas, I'm still suspicious on the quality of the valley plate though, its not totally square and had a curve from end to end.

ITSGRAND

Art had even called me today wanting to know why the plate was shipped to my house...um because I do all of my own work and other people's work too as in this is more than just a hobby.

So I'm pissed. stripped everything down, moved the breather over to the new plate (dry sump) put anti-seize under the bolt heads and started tightening everything down. All middle bolts at 18 and now torquing furthest front and back to their final 18 lb-ft THE DAMN PLATE CRACKED AT THE DRIVERS FRONT CORNER! I'm going to try and get the pictures up in just a few minutes. I am so over this and it is complete BS. If they can't get their casting straight then what's the point of them making their own parts?

Magnuson's plate for the M112 GTO kit I had was made from billet plate if I remember correctly. I NEVER had problems like this from their parts...EVER.