UPP TT, 427ci LS2, RPM tr6060, RPM Diff.... 1000+whp???
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UPP TT, 427ci LS2, RPM tr6060, RPM Diff.... 1000+whp???
we will find out soon. we finally got the Transmission and Diff from RPM that was supposed to show up 3+ weeks ago. Great guys none the less, but I wish they told us it will be this long before we get the stuff.. we would have at least finished the engine break in. oh well
I would still like to thank them for the great deal I got from them and I appreciate the fact that Jeremy always answered my calls.
I would also like to thank Bret@Racing Engine Design for the great work on the engine and car.
mods list.
- Darton sleeved LS2
- 427ci (Eagle crank, Eagle rods, Ross Pistons, ARP2000 bolts)
- 8.8 compression (pump gas)
- Block machined for 1/2 inch Studs
- PRC LS3 heads (Ported by Bret@RED)
- Spinmonster Cam (no specs other than close to a Z06 cam!)
- Fast 102 Intake
- stock TB
- UPP twin turbo kit (look it up in the forums for the specs)
- only modification to the kit is a new boost controller and some heat wrap and turbo blankets
- Eboost2
- Aeromotive Eliminator Fuel system
- Fast Fuel Rails
- 80# injectors (will probably need to upgrade to ID1000s)
- RPM Stage 6 C6 Z06 TR6060
- RPM Stage 2 C6 Z06 Differential
- DSS drive shaft
- RPS BC3 Clutch
- Stock Suspension stock axles
- Full C6 Z06 OEM body kit
- OEM C6 Z06 wheels w/ NT05R 19" Tires
engine was fired 3 weeks ago and had little miles on it, but then we decided to take the trans/diff out and put in the new RPM stuff to break it all in at the same time... (bad idea LOL)
we are working on just final stuff and car will be ready Tuesday.
I will have to break in the new stuff first before putting it on the dyno. hopefully I will be able to do that in less than 2 weeks.
we are hoping to hit 1000whp, but not sure if we will be able to achieve that with the UPP kit. I guess we will find out soon. it wont stay long anyway since I will be swapping it with the TTIX kit and add nitrous on top.
The plan now is to see how far we can go with the UPP kit. do some work on the suspension since its very important with a car that will be making that much power. and I am thinking also about adding nitrous on top with it. Then later (at least 9 months) might go with the TTIX.
Engine and drivetrain should handle 1300+whp with no problems
Car was built for the streets, but I will try to take it to the track and see what it will run. it should be a 8sec car assuming I can drive it and can fit some sticky tires there. I doubt it though.......
Pics/vids will come soon!
car made 820whp@14psi with the older setup on E85 (402ci, ~12:0 compression)
what do you guys think?? will I be able to hit 1000+whp!!!!!???
I would still like to thank them for the great deal I got from them and I appreciate the fact that Jeremy always answered my calls.
I would also like to thank Bret@Racing Engine Design for the great work on the engine and car.
mods list.
- Darton sleeved LS2
- 427ci (Eagle crank, Eagle rods, Ross Pistons, ARP2000 bolts)
- 8.8 compression (pump gas)
- Block machined for 1/2 inch Studs
- PRC LS3 heads (Ported by Bret@RED)
- Spinmonster Cam (no specs other than close to a Z06 cam!)
- Fast 102 Intake
- stock TB
- UPP twin turbo kit (look it up in the forums for the specs)
- only modification to the kit is a new boost controller and some heat wrap and turbo blankets
- Eboost2
- Aeromotive Eliminator Fuel system
- Fast Fuel Rails
- 80# injectors (will probably need to upgrade to ID1000s)
- RPM Stage 6 C6 Z06 TR6060
- RPM Stage 2 C6 Z06 Differential
- DSS drive shaft
- RPS BC3 Clutch
- Stock Suspension stock axles
- Full C6 Z06 OEM body kit
- OEM C6 Z06 wheels w/ NT05R 19" Tires
engine was fired 3 weeks ago and had little miles on it, but then we decided to take the trans/diff out and put in the new RPM stuff to break it all in at the same time... (bad idea LOL)
we are working on just final stuff and car will be ready Tuesday.
I will have to break in the new stuff first before putting it on the dyno. hopefully I will be able to do that in less than 2 weeks.
we are hoping to hit 1000whp, but not sure if we will be able to achieve that with the UPP kit. I guess we will find out soon. it wont stay long anyway since I will be swapping it with the TTIX kit and add nitrous on top.
The plan now is to see how far we can go with the UPP kit. do some work on the suspension since its very important with a car that will be making that much power. and I am thinking also about adding nitrous on top with it. Then later (at least 9 months) might go with the TTIX.
Engine and drivetrain should handle 1300+whp with no problems
Car was built for the streets, but I will try to take it to the track and see what it will run. it should be a 8sec car assuming I can drive it and can fit some sticky tires there. I doubt it though.......
Pics/vids will come soon!
car made 820whp@14psi with the older setup on E85 (402ci, ~12:0 compression)
what do you guys think?? will I be able to hit 1000+whp!!!!!???
Last edited by walhan_qtr; 01-21-2012 at 07:43 PM.
#6
Drifting
Don't get caught up in the CR, 20psi on a 427 should be close to your goals! I think it will happen though just my .02 GL! I'm with Bill, glad to see someone push that kit etc...
#7
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I will... also I will be adding meth pretty soon too so that should help a lot!!
I hope I dont get disappointed
Thanks. that what I was thinking. the 25 extra cubes should help with that lower compression. also the new heads I have flows better (same PRC LS3 heads but ported and all new valves)...
I dont know we will see. I am picking up the car tomorrow..... it should be on the dyno sometime next week I hope....
I hope I dont get disappointed
I dont know we will see. I am picking up the car tomorrow..... it should be on the dyno sometime next week I hope....
#8
Le Mans Master
Why eagle rods? Why not spend the extra $ and get some quality American made rods? You made the right choice with RPM...
NOT TRYING FLAME YOU...just asking.
NOT TRYING FLAME YOU...just asking.
#10
Le Mans Master
Never heard anything bad about Eagle rods. If I was planning on north of 1k I would opt for ARP 2k rod bolts.
Now the Eagle crank... I have heard about quite a few failures on those. Having said that if I was looking for internals and found a good deal on one I would probably buy it.
Now the Eagle crank... I have heard about quite a few failures on those. Having said that if I was looking for internals and found a good deal on one I would probably buy it.
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; 01-19-2012 at 02:22 PM.
#11
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Never heard anything bad about Eagle rods. If I was planning on north of 1k I would opt for ARP 2k rod bolts.
Now the Eagle crank... I have heard about quite a few failures on those. Having said that if I was looking for internals and found a good deal on one I would probably buy it.
Now the Eagle crank... I have heard about quite a few failures on those. Having said that if I was looking for internals and found a good deal on one I would probably buy it.
Some were as far out a .0008" which is darn near half of your bearing clearance or more. Funny thing about is that they measured ok at mid journal, but going out torwards the sides is where the got fat. So if you got a machinist that don't measure in more than one spot and thinks he has the correct clearances, you got problems! I have been using Callies ever since and have not looked back
#12
Le Mans Master
I would also never use eagle stuff when shooting for 1k+ I use compstar at the lowest in all the stuff we build.
What size turbos are in the UPP Kit? I dont see it hitting 1k but thats just me.
What size turbos are in the UPP Kit? I dont see it hitting 1k but thats just me.
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so to answer your question, I used them because I had them.... otherwise I would have went with callies too.
#15
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Never heard anything bad about Eagle rods. If I was planning on north of 1k I would opt for ARP 2k rod bolts.
Now the Eagle crank... I have heard about quite a few failures on those. Having said that if I was looking for internals and found a good deal on one I would probably buy it.
Now the Eagle crank... I have heard about quite a few failures on those. Having said that if I was looking for internals and found a good deal on one I would probably buy it.
there was no problems with the rods and crank. the car had almost 11k miles after the build in which about 4k with this TT kit.
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I to haven't had any complaints about their rods, but using their cranks?? No way, the only thing I would use their cranks for are anchors! I had three of their cranks, one was their standard long snout LS7 and the other two were their higher end armour coated or whatever they called them. All three were returned to Eagle due to excessive taper on the main and rod journals.
Some were as far out a .0008" which is darn near half of your bearing clearance or more. Funny thing about is that they measured ok at mid journal, but going out torwards the sides is where the got fat. So if you got a machinist that don't measure in more than one spot and thinks he has the correct clearances, you got problems! I have been using Callies ever since and have not looked back
Some were as far out a .0008" which is darn near half of your bearing clearance or more. Funny thing about is that they measured ok at mid journal, but going out torwards the sides is where the got fat. So if you got a machinist that don't measure in more than one spot and thinks he has the correct clearances, you got problems! I have been using Callies ever since and have not looked back
He did say he will never really use eagle stuff if he had to choose but since we had them he said its fine....
as mentioned earlier, I would have gone with Callies to if I was to build it from scratch.......
#19
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but it did see about 25 dyno pulls so that should be more than enough I think !!
#20
Le Mans Master