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OFFICIAL A&A SUPERCHARGERS Q&A thread

 
Old 06-08-2012, 04:24 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by macguyver View Post
Andy

New to the forced induction end here- need a little help with some info-- can I call you yo ask a few????

Thanks
Feel free to give us a call at the shop 805-278-4107. If Andy isn't available I'll do my best to answer your questions.
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:55 PM
  #42  
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Default Radiator Support

Approximately how much is the radiator support lowered with the installation of an A&A ?
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:39 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by nc_c5 View Post
Approximately how much is the radiator support lowered with the installation of an A&A ?
It's about 3/4" from the stock location.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:28 PM
  #44  
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Might I suggest you guys offer a cut/lowered/notched radiator and fan assy ?
Also maybe an unrestricted inlet pipe for the blower ?

That might help pickup a little power wouldn't it ?

The blower inlet tube is a real PITA to R&R.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:00 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Dragracer_Art View Post
Might I suggest you guys offer a cut/lowered/notched radiator and fan assy ?
Also maybe an unrestricted inlet pipe for the blower ?

That might help pickup a little power wouldn't it ?

The blower inlet tube is a real PITA to R&R.
Our 4" air bridge flows really well.

These really help getting it on and off



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Last edited by [email protected]; 06-28-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:11 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Dragracer_Art View Post
Might I suggest you guys offer a cut/lowered/notched radiator and fan assy ?
Also maybe an unrestricted inlet pipe for the blower ?

That might help pickup a little power wouldn't it ?

The blower inlet tube is a real PITA to R&R.
I agree.
I finally got the inlet tube on and I'm still not happy with the fit. I'm thinking of using a couple of screens from an old K&N filter instead (a tip I got from LS1tech) for unimpeded airflow.

I modified a Procharger P1sckit when I did my old Z06 and was able to use a nice size tube inlet for the head unit instead of their horrible old flat-panel air cleaner design and made my own "shroud." Pretty sure Andy had some brackets I used to move the radiator cradle forward. 560rwhp with just headers. Just another 1/2" or so clearance and something similar could be done with my '11 GS...
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:12 PM
  #47  
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OK - made the decision to give my Vette an attitude adjustment, and decided to go with A&A. Had a couple questions I didn't see answered in this thread.

1) I like the idea of the Si-V3 (self-contained oil). Easier to install - yes, but it seems keeping a clean reservoir of blower-specific oil is a good idea. My only concern is heat. Does this ever become an issue inside the blower? Any constrains on continuous aggressive driving (this is my daily driver until the snow blows)?

2) The kits don't include an OBDII tuner. How is this taken care of (on my own, or something A&A takes care of)?

3) Sounds like my Auto will hold up OK. Any special considerations/maintenance I'll need to be aware of?

4) I almost never do WOT from a stand-still (preserving the hardware). When I do at say, 45MPH, I can do so with impunity. With the new HP from the blower, will I end up with a bunch of wheel-spin I'm not used to? I prefer staying on the road if at all possible

5) Any forum discounts???

Thanks guys - looking VERY forward to installing this. The thought of the new mustangs and camaros beating me just isn't sitting right with me. Strange how 400HP just isn't enough anymore.

OH, forgot one - With the right tires and a well sponsored stretch of road, any chance of 200MPH?
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:55 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
OK - made the decision to give my Vette an attitude adjustment, and decided to go with A&A. Had a couple questions I didn't see answered in this thread.

1) I like the idea of the Si-V3 (self-contained oil). Easier to install - yes, but it seems keeping a clean reservoir of blower-specific oil is a good idea. My only concern is heat. Does this ever become an issue inside the blower? Any constrains on continuous aggressive driving (this is my daily driver until the snow blows)?
Great decision. Internal oil temp is not an issue with the V3. We have lots of customers running V3's at the track and on their daily driver with no problems.

Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
2) The kits don't include an OBDII tuner. How is this taken care of (on my own, or something A&A takes care of)?
We can email you a HP Tuners file, or you can mail us the PCM we'll flash it and mail it back. There's no extra charge for this when you buy a new kit.

Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
3) Sounds like my Auto will hold up OK. Any special considerations/maintenance I'll need to be aware of?
If you're just going to get on it from a roll stay on top of the fluid changes and you should be OK.

Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
4) I almost never do WOT from a stand-still (preserving the hardware). When I do at say, 45MPH, I can do so with impunity. With the new HP from the blower, will I end up with a bunch of wheel-spin I'm not used to? I prefer staying on the road if at all possible
Sticky tires will help put the power down when you mash it, and keep you on the road.

Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
5) Any forum discounts???
If you plan on having a shop install and tune it there are some great package deals on this forum. If you have any more questions feel free to give us a call.
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:10 PM
  #49  
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Installing one of your kits in my 06 LS2. The instructions state to use the Fuel Rail Spacer kit which is included, I do not know what package this kit is in. Can you tell me what the part looks like? I am afraid this part was not included by accident.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:53 PM
  #50  
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What's the scoop for the Z06's?

What kind of psi are these running? Will this clear a Halltech Dred hood's waterfall area? Should the radiator shroud be a tighter fit around the intakes to keep it from being exposed to the engine bay heat?

Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:38 PM
  #51  
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<<<Patiently waiting
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Old 07-06-2012, 06:38 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by spoiled996 View Post
What's the scoop for the Z06's?

What kind of psi are these running? Will this clear a Halltech Dred hood's waterfall area? Should the radiator shroud be a tighter fit around the intakes to keep it from being exposed to the engine bay heat?

Thanks!
We run 6-7 PSi out of the box for the Z06. Not sure about that hood, we haven't tried it in house. Nope, our top shroud design works just fine. Feel free to call us if you have any more questions.

Originally Posted by Devilish34 View Post
<<<Patiently waiting
Soon...thanks for your order!!
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:18 AM
  #53  
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We can email you a HP Tuners file, or you can mail us the PCM we'll flash it and mail it back. There's no extra charge for this when you buy a new kit.
What kind of turn-around are we talking about for mailing the PCM in? How drivable is the car with stock tune?

Sticky tires will help put the power down when you mash it, and keep you on the road.
So the answer is "Yes, expect some awesome spin - be careful" I gottas change out my Firestones. Great tire built just for the C6, but not so sticky.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
What kind of turn-around are we talking about for mailing the PCM in? How drivable is the car with stock tune?



So the answer is "Yes, expect some awesome spin - be careful" I gottas change out my Firestones. Great tire built just for the C6, but not so sticky.
Good talking to you over the phone. Thanks for the order!!
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:54 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Good talking to you over the phone. Thanks for the order!!
And you too Frank. Thanks for answering all my RTFM questions.

Looking VERY forward to not having to ask myself the question "can I take him" when looking over at some kid in a new mustang/camaro - or even all the average foreign toys. That's just wrong
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:24 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Dragracer_Art View Post
Might I suggest you guys offer a cut/lowered/notched radiator and fan assy ?
Also maybe an unrestricted inlet pipe for the blower ?

That might help pickup a little power wouldn't it ?

The blower inlet tube is a real PITA to R&R.
Wow - couldn't agree with you more. I had problems with the radiator throughout the install (in the way for SC, not right distance from the cover to the front frame, etc) - culminating in the inlet tube to the SC. There's simply not enough room; even with the fan shroud trimmed completely out of the way. The tube is on, but wrinkled and I have no clamp that fits it.

With the truly fine craftsmanship on the rest of the kit, the SC inlet and that silly, embarrassing breather hose to the oil cap really need work.

This is where I'm at on the inlet

Last edited by 1VetteJocky; 07-28-2012 at 12:46 PM. Reason: adding photo
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:52 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
Wow - couldn't agree with you more. I had problems with the radiator throughout the install (in the way for SC, not right distance from the cover to the front frame, etc) - culminating in the inlet tube to the SC. There's simply not enough room; even with the fan shroud trimmed completely out of the way. The tube is on, but wrinkled and I have no clamp that fits it.
Here's how mine ended up. I finally got the inlet on, although it isn't an ideal fit, and like you, my "cover" didn't quite do it. I don't think I did anything wrong, and I suppose I could just use some weatherstripping on the edge to seal it. Hope to start it tomorrow or sometime next week...

Last edited by chimazo; 07-28-2012 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Forgot to add pic!
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:06 AM
  #58  
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Frank,

Can you comment on the two fitment issues above? I am considering getting an A&A for my '06, but after seeing the pictures above from two separate installs I am somewhat concerned.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by nc_c5 View Post
Frank,

Can you comment on the two fitment issues above? I am considering getting an A&A for my '06, but after seeing the pictures above from two separate installs I am somewhat concerned.
Don't get me wrong - most of the kit is absolutely top notch. The SC mounting hardware is beautiful. The intercooler, it's placement and the ram-air fins the put all over are great. It's just that fitting a massive supercharger in the space of a matchbox is a little tough. Add in differences between years of the same model and you'll end up with these little gotchas.
That being said, my vote for improvements:
  1. completely re-shaped SC intake or figure out how to lower the radiator w/o lowering skid bars (possible???). Or raise the SC if possible. My plastic intake is resting on the radiator top so simply can't go lower - will it eventually rub through the plastic by-the-way?
  2. reallly rethink the breather hose going into the oil cap. I plan on putting a 90 degree swivel joint on mine, but couldn't you just put something professional looking using the existing line that was there that we capped off? I'm sure there's a reason, but...
  3. From the other photo above, the cover that attaches to the radiator simply doesn't fit. The passenger side is too short to screw into the front frame screw. if you try to just screw it in anyway, it pulls the piece up, distorting the nose.
  4. Placement of the blow-off valve. if you ever need to work on it, replace the filter, adjust it or simply want to show off that beauty - you have to take off the wheel and open up the wheel well panel, or take off the front facia.
  5. Instructions need a complete list of tools needed at the front, including whether deep-well or normal socket, open ended wrench or box-end. Also need torque specs on everything and more pictures. Also, first step before anything else should be to remove hood, then tires, then front facia - IMHO. You might offer $50 off for complete list of tools, photos and any instruction changes for each year car you don't already have on file. You'll get the best instructions in the world.
  6. I think it was a set of maggie instructions that took off the engine mount cross-member bolts and raised the engine a bit to do the crank pin. Offer this as alternative if it's good. Taking out the steering rack was a little slice of hell.
  7. Put in instructions up-front, to leave stock injectors if driving to local tuner shop. All comments I got back pointed out that as long as you stay out of boost, you can do so.
  8. Offer cheap programmer with pre-programmed tune for owner's configuration as an option. If you could get it down to the $300 range, it would be a great option. Maybe even consider EF Live option.
That's all I have for now. Much thanks to the guys at A&A.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:26 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post

This is where I'm at on the inlet
Something is not right. Give us a call 805-278-4107, we'll go over a few things and get that tube lined up properly.

Originally Posted by chimazo View Post
Here's how mine ended up. I finally got the inlet on, although it isn't an ideal fit, and like you, my "cover" didn't quite do it. I don't think I did anything wrong, and I suppose I could just use some weatherstripping on the edge to seal it. Hope to start it tomorrow or sometime next week...
Looks like the radiator isn't pushed down all the way. The top shroud shouldn't have a gap like that, or sit up that high. Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions.

Here's an example of how it should fit



Here's a close up of the air inlet



Originally Posted by 1VetteJocky View Post
Don't get me wrong - most of the kit is absolutely top notch. The SC mounting hardware is beautiful. The intercooler, it's placement and the ram-air fins the put all over are great. It's just that fitting a massive supercharger in the space of a matchbox is a little tough. Add in differences between years of the same model and you'll end up with these little gotchas.
That being said, my vote for improvements:
  1. completely re-shaped SC intake or figure out how to lower the radiator w/o lowering skid bars (possible???). Or raise the SC if possible. My plastic intake is resting on the radiator top so simply can't go lower - will it eventually rub through the plastic by-the-way?
  2. reallly rethink the breather hose going into the oil cap. I plan on putting a 90 degree swivel joint on mine, but couldn't you just put something professional looking using the existing line that was there that we capped off? I'm sure there's a reason, but...
  3. From the other photo above, the cover that attaches to the radiator simply doesn't fit. The passenger side is too short to screw into the front frame screw. if you try to just screw it in anyway, it pulls the piece up, distorting the nose.
  4. Placement of the blow-off valve. if you ever need to work on it, replace the filter, adjust it or simply want to show off that beauty - you have to take off the wheel and open up the wheel well panel, or take off the front facia.
  5. Instructions need a complete list of tools needed at the front, including whether deep-well or normal socket, open ended wrench or box-end. Also need torque specs on everything and more pictures. Also, first step before anything else should be to remove hood, then tires, then front facia - IMHO. You might offer $50 off for complete list of tools, photos and any instruction changes for each year car you don't already have on file. You'll get the best instructions in the world.
  6. I think it was a set of maggie instructions that took off the engine mount cross-member bolts and raised the engine a bit to do the crank pin. Offer this as alternative if it's good. Taking out the steering rack was a little slice of hell.
  7. Put in instructions up-front, to leave stock injectors if driving to local tuner shop. All comments I got back pointed out that as long as you stay out of boost, you can do so.
  8. Offer cheap programmer with pre-programmed tune for owner's configuration as an option. If you could get it down to the $300 range, it would be a great option. Maybe even consider EF Live option.
That's all I have for now. Much thanks to the guys at A&A.
We can't raise the blower and have it still fit under a stock hood. It shouldn't rub thru the plastic.

The top shroud does fit, just like in the picture I posted above. If it doesn't something must be off. You can always call us and we'll help you figure out why it's not fitting properly.

You don't need to remove the hood to install the kit, we don't. If you feel it's easier to install the kit with it off you can choose to remove it.

Unbolting the motor and raising it to clear the rack is a good alternative for someone with access to a car lift, or jack stands that can lift the car high enough. For everyone else you'll still have to remove the rack.

You may be able to drive a few miles to a local shop with the stock injectors. Not everyone has a shop that close to them, some have to drive an hour or more to get to a dyno. Wouldn't recommend driving that far with the stock injectors.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll make sure Andy sees this. We appreciate you taking the time to give us some feedback.

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