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OFFICIAL A&A SUPERCHARGERS Q&A thread

Old 05-21-2018, 01:02 AM
  #941  
tobb14
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Default 3.4 pulley

does anyone have the scoop on how to install a 3.4 pulley on A&A V3 supercharger kit. I've purchased the 3.4 with matching belt. I want to exchange them out this week but I don't know how to loosen up the tensioner to put the new belt on .
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:04 PM
  #942  
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Originally Posted by tobb14 View Post
does anyone have the scoop on how to install a 3.4 pulley on A&A V3 supercharger kit. I've purchased the 3.4 with matching belt. I want to exchange them out this week but I don't know how to loosen up the tensioner to put the new belt on .
It will depend upon the version of the bracket you have. Look on YouTube for videos on how to replace the belt, that'll get you 90% of the way there. Replacing the pulley is pretty simple. Use a SMALL amount of anti-seize on the shaft and blue Loctite on the retaining bolt. Torque to 25-30 ft lbs per Vortech.
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:14 PM
  #943  
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Sent him an email to help out, after he called into the office.
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Old 05-27-2018, 12:58 AM
  #944  
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Does there happen to b a slight growl from the blower just off idle? When Iím in drive with brake alittle gas and it growls or vibrates, then goes away after another 1-200 rpm. Is it normal? Thanks
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:53 PM
  #945  
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Default YSI boost question

So I had my car on the rollers today and all went well except that the boost would only go to 17psi at 5800 rpm and held steady there up to 7000 rpms. This an A&A kit with secondary drive and billet impellor YSI on a 427 cu in motor with mast heads, custom cam, holley high rise intake and American Racing ZO6 racing headers...... it has a 10% over driven crank pulley and a 2.75 s/c pulley. I'm thinking I have a boost leak somewhere but I've not yet looked over everything. I do have a dual nozzle alky kit on there which isn't being used and was wondering if maybe at that boost level boost is leaking past the nozzles, they are just in one of the silicone couplers and pretty wobbly. I also have an unrestricted 4" intake tube with an air filter on the end so I don't know if that is maybe restrictive. Just looking for opinions and maybe it anyone else has had a similar situation. Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:27 PM
  #946  
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My 05 only has about 35K miles on it and the harmonic balancer is still good. When installing a SC kit, are you guys replacing the balancer as a precautionary measure or leaving it alone if there is no wobble/play?

If replacing, what special tools are needed to get the job done? I have a long breaker bar and cheater pipe to get the bolt out. Does it take a puller to then remove the balancer or will it come off easily after the bolt is removed? What's the best way to keep the engine from rotating while removing or installing the bolt? I have an auto trans.

Thanks!
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:48 PM
  #947  
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Def have to have a puller. There is a Chrysler one you can get on Amazon for $50 or so that works very well. Also need a tool to install the new balancer. It's a friction fit, not something you are going to get on otherwise.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:58 PM
  #948  
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Thanks for the reply. Ive been reading up on it. Is this Powerbond HB good to use if I plan to supercharge in the future? Stock engine so probably going to stay around 525-550 RWHP.

Powerbond part # PB1117SS
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:31 PM
  #949  
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This the one I'm running, had it on for 50K miles or so, no issues. I don't have any personal experience with the Powerbond so I don't want to anything good or bad

I'm sure Josh does though, maybe he can chime in

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501

Last edited by schpenxel; 06-14-2018 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:45 PM
  #950  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
This the one I'm running, had it on for 50K miles or so, no issues. I don't have any personal experience with the Powerbond so I don't want to anything good or bad

I'm sure Josh does though, maybe he can chime in

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501

The PB should be fine too.
Or these 2 are easy choices:
C2501 or TFS-19005
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:32 PM
  #951  
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Thanks for the help on the HB, guys.

Im still on the fence about self-installing my A&A kit. The car is not my daily driver so I can take me time doing it and I am pretty mechanically inclined but this will definitely be my biggest undertaking to date. Im the type of guy that likes having vehicles in the garage to work on, so this may be fun for me....just a bit intimidating I guess at first!
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Old 06-16-2018, 05:58 PM
  #952  
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Originally Posted by Cooter272 View Post
Thanks for the help on the HB, guys.

Im still on the fence about self-installing my A&A kit. The car is not my daily driver so I can take me time doing it and I am pretty mechanically inclined but this will definitely be my biggest undertaking to date. Im the type of guy that likes having vehicles in the garage to work on, so this may be fun for me....just a bit intimidating I guess at first!
I drove down from the Bay Area to A&A Corvette (Oxnard) and had them install/tune. They did and great job and the drive home was fun

Definitely replace the HB with other than oem, powerbond, ATI, etc.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; 06-16-2018 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:27 PM
  #953  
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I thought about that but that's 5.5 hours each way 4 times, twice with a 2nd car so I have a ride home and back. Plus, I do like to tinker and work on my own vehicles....I guess I just need to man up and go for it hahaha.
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:28 AM
  #954  
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Just ordered replacement idlers from a&a and noticed the new ones are metal and the old ones are plastic. My old ones are .15 inches larger in diameter. Any concerns over running the new idlers impacting boost or belt length?
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:56 PM
  #955  
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Called a&a, they said should be no issues swapping to the new idlers.
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Old 06-29-2018, 06:01 PM
  #956  
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Hey Andy/josh,

do do you guys still offer head unit trade ins /upgrades ? Looking to upgrade my V3SI to a T trim.
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:12 PM
  #957  
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Originally Posted by Sergio8A View Post
Hey Andy/josh,

do do you guys still offer head unit trade ins /upgrades ? Looking to upgrade my V3SI to a T trim.
Yes we do. Give us a call at the shop to discuss trade in options and headunits.
805-278-4107
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Old 07-02-2018, 02:16 AM
  #958  
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I have the old bracket design. I was thinking about replacing the tensioner and belt as I am fighting some belt slip (690whp, V3 Si, 3.6 inch pulley). Should I be thinking about going to the new bracket design entirely instead? I'm definitely going to have to call and see about upgrading the Si also, so that could be a factor in the decision. I'm using the single pump external for fuel at the moment, so I'd possibly need to go dual pump and go e85 instead of 93.

Is there much to gain going to the Ti? Will a Ti make 800 whp or would it be better to go ysi with a smaller pulley? At what point is an 8 rib and/or secondary drive necessary?
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:45 AM
  #959  
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Instructions say not all cars need the water pump housing ground down. Mine kind of looks like the belt would clear without grinding and it also doesnt seem to have as much excess metal as the one on the instructions. What do ya'll think?

In regards to grinding down the water pump housing, are we needing to grind down just that upper corner or does the grind need to follow all the way down the face? See area outlined in red.

Thanks!



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Old 07-03-2018, 01:52 PM
  #960  
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Originally Posted by Cooter272 View Post
Instructions say not all cars need the water pump housing ground down. Mine kind of looks like the belt would clear without grinding and it also doesnt seem to have as much excess metal as the one on the instructions. What do ya'll think?

In regards to grinding down the water pump housing, are we needing to grind down just that upper corner or does the grind need to follow all the way down the face? See area outlined in red.

Thanks!


Grind the dark area of your red shade. Should be fine just need a tiny air gap and it's good.

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