IAT mounting on Speed Density, FI
#21
Any write up or pics? Thread pitch, bore size etc.?
GM part number 12614717
It's a screw in. Drill a hole in the manifold snout right behind the throttle body. Then, take the calibration data straight from the IAT2 sensor of a ZR1 or CTS-V file. Be sure to change the axis labels to match the ZR1/CTS-V.
This route involves no guessing, and no trial/error on calibrating the IAT sensor.
It's a screw in. Drill a hole in the manifold snout right behind the throttle body. Then, take the calibration data straight from the IAT2 sensor of a ZR1 or CTS-V file. Be sure to change the axis labels to match the ZR1/CTS-V.
This route involves no guessing, and no trial/error on calibrating the IAT sensor.
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
I used a different sensor, but once I had it I was able to determine thread size. Mine was 3/8" NPT if I remember correctly. I bought a 3/8" NPT weld bung (Summit, etc) and w/ the sensor and bung, was able to determine a drill/bore size. I had my buddy TIG the bung on. I called up Casper to get the Maf wire conenctor so I could make my own harness. You basically delete the 3 MAF wires and the 2 remaining IAT wires need to have a connector to the IAT sensor. I have all the special crimping tools and a bunch of terminals, just needed the connectors. The guy at Casper offered to build it for me if I gave them a length. I was like sure, what the hell. The price was right.
#23
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St. Jude Donor '14
GM part number 12614717
It's a screw in. Drill a hole in the manifold snout right behind the throttle body. Then, take the calibration data straight from the IAT2 sensor of a ZR1 or CTS-V file. Be sure to change the axis labels to match the ZR1/CTS-V.
This route involves no guessing, and no trial/error on calibrating the IAT sensor.
It's a screw in. Drill a hole in the manifold snout right behind the throttle body. Then, take the calibration data straight from the IAT2 sensor of a ZR1 or CTS-V file. Be sure to change the axis labels to match the ZR1/CTS-V.
This route involves no guessing, and no trial/error on calibrating the IAT sensor.
Thank you very much
#24
Has anybody done this yet? I have the CTS V sensor and casper breakout harness. My issue is the thread size of the sensor seems to be 9/16 with 16tpi. I cant find a nut that will screw onto this to mount it in a coupler/charge pipe or a tap/die this size to mount it into the throttle body or intake. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#25
I got the zr1 ait sensor also and I drilled a 7/16 hole into my intake tube that I replace the maf with. I used a 1/4 18npt and screw it in. I also used a oring/gasket but its useless cause its a tight fit and no boost will leak from it. Quick tip . To tap the hole as far the tap goes in.. made it easier to thread the sensor in
#26
Has anybody done this yet? I have the CTS V sensor and casper breakout harness. My issue is the thread size of the sensor seems to be 9/16 with 16tpi. I cant find a nut that will screw onto this to mount it in a coupler/charge pipe or a tap/die this size to mount it into the throttle body or intake. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by neveret; 06-21-2013 at 08:38 AM. Reason: clarification
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Bigtime145 (04-08-2019)
#28
Pro
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...se-needed.html
Scroll down for my pics
There is a way to monitor IAT on your gauges, dont worry you'll see it soon enough
Scroll down for my pics
There is a way to monitor IAT on your gauges, dont worry you'll see it soon enough
#30
Racer
Thread Starter
Has anybody done this yet? I have the CTS V sensor and casper breakout harness. My issue is the thread size of the sensor seems to be 9/16 with 16tpi. I cant find a nut that will screw onto this to mount it in a coupler/charge pipe or a tap/die this size to mount it into the throttle body or intake. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
There is no such thing as a 9/16"NPT that I'm aware of. If there were, the thread OD of a male thread at the large end would be close to 7/8" diameter.
If your sensor is in fact a 3/8NPT, the outside of the thread would measure about 11/16" dia. I would recommend welding a 3/8NPT on the charge tube before the TB like I did. If you were going to drill the tube, it looks like you'd need a 37/64" drill http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-pipe.htm
and a 3/8-18NPT tap. Mcmaster Carr sells them for about $30, but you could probably find them cheaper if you looked.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2525a174/=naeq5h
First things first, properly identify the thread on the sensor you would like to use and go from there.
#32
Pro
Now I have both but I dont use the IAT for timing anymore just Dsteck's stuff.
Its still good to have, reason being is if your Speed Density tuned, by having the IAT inside the intake manifold, you can zero out your IAT Bias tables for a more accurate SD tune since now you have very little difference in air temperatures that the IAT sees and from what actually enters the cylinder.
So in HP Tuners for example, you can change your "Cylinder Charge temperature" BIAS to all zeros just like the ZR1 has it since it's IAT is inside the intake.
But since I'm MAF only doesn't really matter lol
#33
Advanced
I hate to be the one to bring up an old thread but there is very good info here (And its one of the first things that come up on google when you search "GM screw in IAT")
How thick is he intake right there behind the throttle body? Seems like it would be very thin to tap threads into.
How about the EGR location on a truck maniold?
Is that about the same (thickness) as on your car intakes to tap threads into?
How thick is he intake right there behind the throttle body? Seems like it would be very thin to tap threads into.
How about the EGR location on a truck maniold?
Is that about the same (thickness) as on your car intakes to tap threads into?
#34
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St. Jude Donor '15
Yeah, it is pretty thin in that area, but with pipe threads it doesn't matter as much. Throw some sealant on it and it should be fine. Most of the pressure is "squeezing" in on the sensor with pipe threads. With regular straight cut threads there would be more pulling on the threads (and likely stripping on something this thin)
Just get the right size drill bit.. not one just close enough for the right size pipe thread. It's a weird size that I don't remember (the drill bit that is)
Just get the right size drill bit.. not one just close enough for the right size pipe thread. It's a weird size that I don't remember (the drill bit that is)
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cfaluck13 (10-20-2015)
#36
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St. Jude Donor '15
I found my order, apparently I used a 3/8-18 NPT tap and 37/64 drill bit. With as few threads are cut into this thing I bet anything even close will work
#38
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St. Jude Donor '15
I found this about the subject that gives some of the why..
"Note: the threads in the OEM intake (and the Magnuson Heartbeat) are a M14x1.5 straight thread. GM uses a tapered sensor in a straight thread hole in order to provide an air tight seal (without needing a crush washer or gasket)."
"Note: the threads in the OEM intake (and the Magnuson Heartbeat) are a M14x1.5 straight thread. GM uses a tapered sensor in a straight thread hole in order to provide an air tight seal (without needing a crush washer or gasket)."
#40
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St. Jude Donor '15
Interesting.
Is that the same sensor as the WT382 one from Borg Warner? That's what I'm using
I always thought they were tapered but sounds like I was wrong
The 3/8 NPT tap and WT382 sensor worked fine for me. I would guess the intake being so thin made it pretty forgiving as far as thread spacing goes.. a bit of sealant would seal it up regardless. I've pressure tested it and it doesn't leak on my setup. I probably could have just drilled a hole that was slightly undersized vs. the sensor and drove it in with a ratchet and some sealant and been fine in all honesty. Or I could have cracked the intake.. who knows.
Interesting topic
Is that the same sensor as the WT382 one from Borg Warner? That's what I'm using
I always thought they were tapered but sounds like I was wrong
The 3/8 NPT tap and WT382 sensor worked fine for me. I would guess the intake being so thin made it pretty forgiving as far as thread spacing goes.. a bit of sealant would seal it up regardless. I've pressure tested it and it doesn't leak on my setup. I probably could have just drilled a hole that was slightly undersized vs. the sensor and drove it in with a ratchet and some sealant and been fine in all honesty. Or I could have cracked the intake.. who knows.
Interesting topic
Last edited by schpenxel; 10-21-2015 at 01:03 PM.