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Old 11-12-2012, 07:55 PM
  #41  
0Arun@CCP
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Not sure if it's possible Bill, but I would just put on the stock rockers and stands and redyno.

It won't cost much but it will answer alot of your questions.

The LSL lobe is a very nice lobe-but it will float-and the springs you have are pretty weak.

If that valve is not a hollow stem it weighs around 120 grams or more.

That's considered heavy.
Old 11-12-2012, 10:28 PM
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Hmmm, i always though hydraulic lifters didn't like anything over 150 seat and 350 open..

perhaps a collapsed lifter?
Old 11-12-2012, 11:16 PM
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Carl, I've heard two different numbers to not exceed, 165# and 185# and I personally know someone who has run multiple setups at 180# closed. Thats what I'm shooting for but I don't know if I'll get there before coil bind.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Carl, I've heard two different numbers to not exceed, 165# and 185# and I personally know someone who has run multiple setups at 180# closed. Thats what I'm shooting for but I don't know if I'll get there before coil bind.
I have run more than 180 multiple times-even more than 200. Never an issue.

The Ford guys have run as much as 500lbs on the seat on factory issue 87-95 hydraulic roller lifters-380 being where they settled on.

Look up "spintron testing".

Lots of valueable info.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:28 PM
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Arun,

I would like to revert back to stock valvetrain just to take a lot out of the equation but like I said, the holes that the rocker bolts go into have been enlarged to accomodate the Jesel stands. Just going to have to see if another ~15-20# of closed pressure is enough. If not maybe Morel lifters and stiffer springs. But if the heads need to come off to change the lifters I may just scrap the whole thing. Then again some 3" downpipes would take quite a bit of backpressure away.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Arun,

I would like to revert back to stock valvetrain just to take a lot out of the equation but like I said, the holes that the rocker bolts go into have been enlarged to accomodate the Jesel stands. Just going to have to see if another ~15-20# of closed pressure is enough. If not maybe Morel lifters and stiffer springs. But if the heads need to come off to change the lifters I may just scrap the whole thing. Then again some 3" downpipes would take quite a bit of backpressure away.
Did not realize that on the bolt holes-that sux. Did you make a pull on low boost?

Those heads are one of the best out there-the pocket dia should offer you alot of options.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:57 PM
  #47  
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Yes homie, see page one for the dyno sheet with both gates and ~high boost. :P The valve float is hardly noticable on gates.

Yea they are cream of the crop as are the Jesels and I got both for a smoking deal. Would suck to have to yank them to change lifters. I'm confident the LS7 lifters can handle up to 180# but I don't see these springs getting that high. I guess a next step would be to find some stiffer springs if shimming these don't work. The pockets will accept a 1.5" spring (which is what is in there now) so it should not be a problem to find a spring of that diameter that has 180# at 1.800".

Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; 11-13-2012 at 12:00 AM.
Old 11-13-2012, 12:26 AM
  #48  
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Also keep in mind... the larger surface area of the bigger valves, combined with the added boost... will aggravate valve float if your springs are already borderline. (Pressure on backside of valve)

I ran into a very similar problem a few years ago on a Grand National engine at 30psi when I put more cylinder head on it. I ended up putting BBC springs on it to keep the valves from floating. Can't recall the seat/open pressures anymore... but it was far beyond what I was comfortable with. I was running a short duration/high lift cam.

Seems once you find enough spring to hold the valves closed... they start to beat up the hydraulic lifters.
Softer lobes or less lift may help.

I've even heard of some guys running solid lifters on billet hydraulic profiles @ .002-zero lash.
Old 11-13-2012, 02:48 AM
  #49  
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How about some lighter valves? You could re-cut a cam with close to the same specs with lxl or xe lobes, etc. Lots of farting around I know and it's sort of killing the deal. If you need more seal room for shims you can trim the bottom of the seals if they have a lot of excess overhang at the bottom. I did this on my old heads that had .060" worth of shim under them and never had a problem for the last 15k.
Old 12-30-2012, 10:13 PM
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Just got done setting up the springs with offset keepers and shims. They were at 140# before at ~1.840", should be at 170# now at 1.760". That's as far as these springs can go without running into coil bind. It drives well but the only way to tell if the valve float is cured. Hope to do that soon.
Old 12-30-2012, 10:28 PM
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So you going to the dyno again Bill? Yall going to post your numbers or hide them lol
Old 12-31-2012, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
So you going to the dyno again Bill? Yall going to post your numbers or hide them lol
Old 12-31-2012, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
So you going to the dyno again Bill? Yall going to post your numbers or hide them lol
LOL! We don't hide them JM. We are just embarassed to post our wimpy numbers usually lol! I don't think Bill has ever hid his numbers.
Old 12-31-2012, 07:44 AM
  #54  
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^^^ all these big build makes 700 feels like 400s!


Good luck with the hiccup, I'm sure a few minds on here can come up with a fix. Badass setup so far, I want turbos
Old 12-31-2012, 09:04 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
So you going to the dyno again Bill? Yall going to post your numbers or hide them lol
Nothing to hide, I get drug even when I sandbag. Whenever I dyno it I'll post up. Conservatively hoping to crack into the 900's. No more than 925.
Old 12-31-2012, 09:59 PM
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Hope it works out for you Bill. You always been upfront on numbers, comments ect..
Old 12-31-2012, 10:04 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by inspector12
LOL! We don't hide them JM. We are just embarassed to post our wimpy numbers usually lol! I don't think Bill has ever hid his numbers.
Lies! See yall soon

Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Nothing to hide, I get drug even when I sandbag. Whenever I dyno it I'll post up. Conservatively hoping to crack into the 900's. No more than 925.
900 should be chump change Ill be looking to crack 1k before TI. Look forward to hanging with yall! Just poking at you Bill! This time Ill be there early and buy the first round of drinks!

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Old 01-24-2013, 09:53 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Rocker adjustment is a good point too. It's possible the pushrods are too long but its more likely the Jesel rockers are out of adjustment. I got them to zero lash and went another 1/2 turn on the rocker adjuster which is .040". So theoretically the lifters have .040" preload. The lifters were new and not pumped up so it was a little difficult to determine zero lash but I'm fairly confident I was within ~.010" and definitely on the loose side, so .040" - .050".
on a adj rocker pushrod length will affect where the wipe on top of the valve.. you also need to make sure that the jesel stand hight is correct.. as for adj a hyd roller find zero lash and a 1/4 turn and i'm guessing you adj the each valve while it was on the base circle of the cam?
Old 01-24-2013, 11:39 AM
  #59  
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The Jesel rockers look to be wiping perfectly. Can't really talk in relation to 1/4's of turns because I doubt the thread pitch on the adjuster nut is the same as a a stock LS rocker bolt. But I measured the Jesel adjuster nut pitch and by my calculations I'm preloading the lifter ~.040".

I used offset keepers and shims to get the springs up to 170# on the seat which is as much as they can go before coil bind. We'll see if thats enough when I get back onto the dyno.
Old 01-24-2013, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
The Jesel rockers look to be wiping perfectly. Can't really talk in relation to 1/4's of turns because I doubt the thread pitch on the adjuster nut is the same as a a stock LS rocker bolt. But I measured the Jesel adjuster nut pitch and by my calculations I'm preloading the lifter ~.040".

I used offset keepers and shims to get the springs up to 170# on the seat which is as much as they can go before coil bind. We'll see if thats enough when I get back onto the dyno.
I wasn't using a stock rocker for the 1/4 turn.. A 1/4 turn should be plenty of preload for 99% of most adjustable rockers on a hyd roller.. I used to adjust them as little as possible and not have noise.. In my experience a looser set hyd will make more power.. I know some guys who ran pure street and were limited to very low lift and stock ford hyd lifters would actually use a feeler gauge to set valve cause they were running them so loose..

Last edited by busaetr; 01-24-2013 at 08:50 PM.


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