Hey guys now that the excitement over the C7 reveal is over its time to start teasing about my build for this summer, more videos explaining whats going on to follow
For those of you just joining welcome, here are all the videos on the build!
Thanks for checking it out!
This journey began back in July of 2012 when I contacted a shop out of Cumming, Ga about building a one off turbo kit different from any in existence. I Had asked that we place the turbos where the fuel tanks are located and route the exhaust out the side. This thread shows pictures of the build a long the way and all the custom touches VR put into the vehicle. The build began in Dec 2012 and was completed in July of 2013. Enjoy the pics and videos feel free to reply or pm any questions and I will do my best to answer! Thanks for checking out my thread
Here is the final product: 195mph in the Georgia 1/2 mile on my first event with the car
The car goes on the become the first Corvette to exceed 200mph in the half mile reach 203 at the 2014 WGF event in Clayton, Ga
Pics can found throughout entire thread or in the video marked below
Dyno results 1327rwhp on pump+ meth and 1586rwhp on e85
All other videos from the car leading to the race:
Update January 2016:
Original combo was 9.3CR, RHS 287 heads, cometic MLS gaskets and ARP 2000 studs. Now I've changed to Mast 285 heads with ARP custom aged 625 studs.
This has been an ongoing problem since Sept of 2014 when I ran 203mph in Clayton on only 19 psi ~1300rwhp My cooling system pressurized and my radiator ruptured. At that time gaskets got replaced keeping the original Cometic units. This time the head studs were retorqued after a few heat cycles to add clamping force thinking inadequate torque lead to my problem.
While the car was down I had the opportunity to receive some upgraded parts at cost so I changed to my current single plane intake, ProEFI, 78mm turbos, nitrous and increased my max power from 1520 to 1750
Besides being out of practice from not driving for the 4 months while it was being repaired, the traction control of ProEFI not working and the slippery conditions of the Jan 2015 Ocala WGW track I was still spraying my engine compartment with coolant after every pass. Timing was taken out of the motor to help the issue but it was still occurring through the event.
VR offers to build my bottom end to get me ready for WGW in May 2015 and I obviously accept. We discover my Dragon slayer crank was flexxing and my piston rings razor sharp so new pistons and a callies billet crank are installed. Still used ARP 2000 studs and Cometic MLS gaskets without O-rings. Im instructed to stop running E85 on the street to prevent the excess engine wear I was previously seeing.
May 2015 Georgia wannagofast I battle with ProEFI and make a single clean pass through the weekend hitting 17psi but finally no water is pushed and I drive the car home.
I spend May-Sept tweaking ProEFI and fixing the bugs associated with the power level replacing my NW TB with the TPIS unit as the NW had me stranded twice after shutting closed during a 3rd gear pull. Some loose spark plug wires, bad fuel pump, vacuum leaks and other misc repairs kept me busy over my 80hr/week schedule but I have the car finally running with an operational ProEFI calibrated by Chris Delgado. I had a suspicion of a gasket leak after seeing coolant around the passenger head bolts and seeing coolant temps in the 250s just on the highway after a few pulls with an operational radiator
First pass at WGW Georgia 2015 and I pressurize the cooling system, rupture a cooling hose and have to flat bed home as Im pouring water out the exhaust. For this occurence the RHS heads are swapped for MAST units and I suggest the 625 studs after learning that the stronger L19 studs are not compatible with E85 fuel. Car is down from Sept 2015 until Jan 2016 to have all this done fortunately at cost.
I have not run my new Mast heads to test the hypothesis that my RHS heads are flexing under boost second to weather. Ill find out this spring.
I guess this serves as my update; after achieving that 203mph in 9/2014 at the half my car has been in my possession for 3 months and optimally operational for 2 weeks giving me about 600 miles of enjoyment. Nearly 40k later, 20 out of my own pocket and I have a setup that has gone slower at the track and less reliable on the street. The big problem is the original engine I specced out 3 years ago was based around the thought of 1200hp
My solution - Start fresh with a whole new motor, with the talk of the RHS units cracking and the possibility my sleeves shifting i prefer to go with a proven LSX block built by Kurt Urban. It will be filled with a billet rotating assembly and topped with AllPro heads. I know I want copper gaskets, O-rings and 625 studs to offer as much clamping force as possible. While Im at it I want to make the motor E85 compatible to be able to run that on every fill without a fuel system lubricant additive.
Is this all stupid expensive and likely unnecessary? Sure, but at this point Im tired of the car sitting for months while band-aids are applied. I want a definitive fix and finally be able to confidently drive it.
It is also at this time I decided I would no longer be doing business with VR. While they did great work and I was initially excited about the car I have grown to resent the vehicle as it has been far from reliable not completing a single event without a major failure and can barely be used on the street. I have asked on multiple occasions to do whatever it takes to make the car perfect but am constantly given quick incomplete fixes suiting their busy schedule. While I understand there are other customers I do not like having paid for a car that I never felt was complete. They were also uncountable for the damage the caused to my vehicle
I will go forward with a smaller local shop who will better be able to provide support on and off the track and help me create the car I always envisioned.
Last edited by SinisterC6; 04-19-2016 at 10:32 AM.
Diggin the red interior lighting with the all the door and consol buttons.
Thanks I did the interior originally with blue leds so the swap to red wasn't very hard. The worse unit was the radio because it already has surface mound LED bulbs that I couldn't easily remove. I ended up making my own circuit to the radio, hiding bulbs within the button and carving trenches behind the face plate to hide all the wires.