800 rwhp engine options
02-11-2013, 04:31 PM
#21
Platinum Supporting Vendor
06LMBZ your PM inbox is full.
02-12-2013, 08:35 AM
#23
No offense to any vendors but they always opt for spend more money. 
I get it and not saying they are misleading. If money is not a concern (almost always is) then yes, do the best of the best of the best. But when it comes to budget and running 800rwhp on the stock block, the answers go all over the board. I was just through this and here is what my research netted (still recommend you do alot of reading).
The crank and block are good on a safe tune up to 1,000ish (crank and rear wheel debated everywhere). The pistons and wrist pins are crap. I have an A&A vortech T-3 trim with a blower cam and I literally broke the side off a piston at 680ish rwhp on what I believe to be a strong safe tune but not erring on the side of conservative. I personaly wanted to make 800rwhp but not spend the money to be "extra safe". The key here in my opinion is that you buying time on a highly modified motor so how much time can you afford to buy.
The titanium rods are also varying in the opinions of their abilities. Some so 600rwhp, some say 800rwhp and some say 900rwhp. I have not seen anyone say they will handle 1,000. Everybody agrees they can't handle much nitrous due to the hardness of titanium and the violence of nitrous. Having "researched" all of that, I decided the block and crank were fine for 800rwhp all day. Pisons and wrist pins had to go. I was up in the air on rods and almost bought callies but decided I wanted to take a chance and see what they could do. I really like the idea of having less recipricating mass for quicker revs. I have 400 miles on the new motor right now and I have not dynoed or upped the boost yet. Let the adventure begin!
I hope that gives you some insite.
I get it and not saying they are misleading. If money is not a concern (almost always is) then yes, do the best of the best of the best. But when it comes to budget and running 800rwhp on the stock block, the answers go all over the board. I was just through this and here is what my research netted (still recommend you do alot of reading).
The crank and block are good on a safe tune up to 1,000ish (crank and rear wheel debated everywhere). The pistons and wrist pins are crap. I have an A&A vortech T-3 trim with a blower cam and I literally broke the side off a piston at 680ish rwhp on what I believe to be a strong safe tune but not erring on the side of conservative. I personaly wanted to make 800rwhp but not spend the money to be "extra safe". The key here in my opinion is that you buying time on a highly modified motor so how much time can you afford to buy.
The titanium rods are also varying in the opinions of their abilities. Some so 600rwhp, some say 800rwhp and some say 900rwhp. I have not seen anyone say they will handle 1,000. Everybody agrees they can't handle much nitrous due to the hardness of titanium and the violence of nitrous. Having "researched" all of that, I decided the block and crank were fine for 800rwhp all day. Pisons and wrist pins had to go. I was up in the air on rods and almost bought callies but decided I wanted to take a chance and see what they could do. I really like the idea of having less recipricating mass for quicker revs. I have 400 miles on the new motor right now and I have not dynoed or upped the boost yet. Let the adventure begin!
I hope that gives you some insite.
02-12-2013, 08:55 AM
#24
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2002
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One other very important item you failed to mention is the "rod bolts".
Those are one of the main pieces that snap when having twice the normal hp. Do a search and compare the dia of stock vs arp.
Those are one of the main pieces that snap when having twice the normal hp. Do a search and compare the dia of stock vs arp.
No offense to any vendors but they always opt for spend more money.
I get it and not saying they are misleading. If money is not a concern (almost always is) then yes, do the best of the best of the best. But when it comes to budget and running 800rwhp on the stock block, the answers go all over the board. I was just through this and here is what my research netted (still recommend you do alot of reading).
The crank and block are good on a safe tune up to 1,000ish (crank and rear wheel debated everywhere). The pistons and wrist pins are crap. I have an A&A vortech T-3 trim with a blower cam and I literally broke the side off a piston at 680ish rwhp on what I believe to be a strong safe tune but not erring on the side of conservative. I personaly wanted to make 800rwhp but not spend the money to be "extra safe". The key here in my opinion is that you buying time on a highly modified motor so how much time can you afford to buy.
The titanium rods are also varying in the opinions of their abilities. Some so 600rwhp, some say 800rwhp and some say 900rwhp. I have not seen anyone say they will handle 1,000. Everybody agrees they can't handle much nitrous due to the hardness of titanium and the violence of nitrous. Having "researched" all of that, I decided the block and crank were fine for 800rwhp all day. Pistons and wrist pins had to go. I was up in the air on rods and almost bought callies but decided I wanted to take a chance and see what they could do. I really like the idea of having less recipricating mass for quicker revs. I have 400 miles on the new motor right now and I have not dynoed or upped the boost yet. Let the adventure begin!
I hope that gives you some insite.
I get it and not saying they are misleading. If money is not a concern (almost always is) then yes, do the best of the best of the best. But when it comes to budget and running 800rwhp on the stock block, the answers go all over the board. I was just through this and here is what my research netted (still recommend you do alot of reading).
The crank and block are good on a safe tune up to 1,000ish (crank and rear wheel debated everywhere). The pistons and wrist pins are crap. I have an A&A vortech T-3 trim with a blower cam and I literally broke the side off a piston at 680ish rwhp on what I believe to be a strong safe tune but not erring on the side of conservative. I personaly wanted to make 800rwhp but not spend the money to be "extra safe". The key here in my opinion is that you buying time on a highly modified motor so how much time can you afford to buy.
The titanium rods are also varying in the opinions of their abilities. Some so 600rwhp, some say 800rwhp and some say 900rwhp. I have not seen anyone say they will handle 1,000. Everybody agrees they can't handle much nitrous due to the hardness of titanium and the violence of nitrous. Having "researched" all of that, I decided the block and crank were fine for 800rwhp all day. Pistons and wrist pins had to go. I was up in the air on rods and almost bought callies but decided I wanted to take a chance and see what they could do. I really like the idea of having less recipricating mass for quicker revs. I have 400 miles on the new motor right now and I have not dynoed or upped the boost yet. Let the adventure begin!
I hope that gives you some insite.
02-12-2013, 10:44 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No offense to any vendors but they always opt for spend more money.
I get it and not saying they are misleading. If money is not a concern (almost always is) then yes, do the best of the best of the best. But when it comes to budget and running 800rwhp on the stock block, the answers go all over the board. I was just through this and here is what my research netted (still recommend you do alot of reading).
The crank and block are good on a safe tune up to 1,000ish (crank and rear wheel debated everywhere). The pistons and wrist pins are crap. I have an A&A vortech T-3 trim with a blower cam and I literally broke the side off a piston at 680ish rwhp on what I believe to be a strong safe tune but not erring on the side of conservative. I personaly wanted to make 800rwhp but not spend the money to be "extra safe". The key here in my opinion is that you buying time on a highly modified motor so how much time can you afford to buy.
The titanium rods are also varying in the opinions of their abilities. Some so 600rwhp, some say 800rwhp and some say 900rwhp. I have not seen anyone say they will handle 1,000. Everybody agrees they can't handle much nitrous due to the hardness of titanium and the violence of nitrous. Having "researched" all of that, I decided the block and crank were fine for 800rwhp all day. Pisons and wrist pins had to go. I was up in the air on rods and almost bought callies but decided I wanted to take a chance and see what they could do. I really like the idea of having less recipricating mass for quicker revs. I have 400 miles on the new motor right now and I have not dynoed or upped the boost yet. Let the adventure begin!
I hope that gives you some insite.
I get it and not saying they are misleading. If money is not a concern (almost always is) then yes, do the best of the best of the best. But when it comes to budget and running 800rwhp on the stock block, the answers go all over the board. I was just through this and here is what my research netted (still recommend you do alot of reading).
The crank and block are good on a safe tune up to 1,000ish (crank and rear wheel debated everywhere). The pistons and wrist pins are crap. I have an A&A vortech T-3 trim with a blower cam and I literally broke the side off a piston at 680ish rwhp on what I believe to be a strong safe tune but not erring on the side of conservative. I personaly wanted to make 800rwhp but not spend the money to be "extra safe". The key here in my opinion is that you buying time on a highly modified motor so how much time can you afford to buy.
The titanium rods are also varying in the opinions of their abilities. Some so 600rwhp, some say 800rwhp and some say 900rwhp. I have not seen anyone say they will handle 1,000. Everybody agrees they can't handle much nitrous due to the hardness of titanium and the violence of nitrous. Having "researched" all of that, I decided the block and crank were fine for 800rwhp all day. Pisons and wrist pins had to go. I was up in the air on rods and almost bought callies but decided I wanted to take a chance and see what they could do. I really like the idea of having less recipricating mass for quicker revs. I have 400 miles on the new motor right now and I have not dynoed or upped the boost yet. Let the adventure begin!
I hope that gives you some insite.
02-12-2013, 01:47 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
I just went through the same decisions your are trying to make. In the end I sold my LS2 for 2k and bought a built LS402 short block for around 6500. I went with the best of everything thinking of the future but you can do a well built LS402 for under 5k. This means 3k out of pocket which isnt so bad.
02-19-2013, 07:21 PM
#27
Thank you very much for taking to the to write all of that. You and I seem to have the same goal. Of course I would love to drop 15k in a built motor, but that just isn't in the cards right now. I would like to spend 3-5k and have a solid 750-800rwhp setup, not sure if that is even feasible, if not I will stick with the stock set-up, keep the boost down and get a conservative tune and save awhile longer. Keep us posted on your set-up, if you have time shoot me a pm with the costs and parts you used.
Excellent advice, I too read the stock rod bolts are a weak link. I would replace them for sure with some Katech ones or comparable replacements.
Excellent advice, I too read the stock rod bolts are a weak link. I would replace them for sure with some Katech ones or comparable replacements.
02-19-2013, 07:24 PM
#28
Thanks for reminding me. I have all ARP hardware available including head studs.
02-20-2013, 10:23 PM
#29
My car is at ECS as we speak.... Chris is great and will give you the low down on what you need to do. You dont need a lot of cubic inches to make 800 wheel... i have a new ls2 block i will sell cheap with an eagle 3.9 stroke crank with rods and pistons this combo makes 398 ci and will spin like mad its just what the doctor ordered for a fast FI car i used this same combo in my 4th gen SS and made 790 wheel with a built 400 and a 3400 stall. I would get a 364 CI ls2 and be done. It will be fast as hell. Plus ls2 blocks are cheap. Some say the Ls3 can see core shift at 800 plus. some guys on tech start pinning the mains at 850 It is highly recommended to keep the caps from walking around for a good long living engine. I would pm mighty mouse .... Dave is super smart and knows a boat load about budget friendly and high end combos. He has always been very nice to me when i ask questions. I you have a stick car you will make 800 Wheel easy. Good Luck
02-22-2013, 09:17 AM
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I just went through the same decisions your are trying to make. In the end I sold my LS2 for 2k and bought a built LS402 short block for around 6500. I went with the best of everything thinking of the future but you can do a well built LS402 for under 5k. This means 3k out of pocket which isnt so bad.
Sorry, I'm not an avid poster. I will pm you tomorrow if I can remember. Just FYI, my car made 704rwhp and 657trq on a dyno pack at 120* intake temp pulling 4* of timing with the stock fuel system and 60lb injectors. I was told that wouldn't happen. I'm doing meth next. Can't afford fuel system for a few months.
My car is at ECS as we speak.... Chris is great and will give you the low down on what you need to do. You dont need a lot of cubic inches to make 800 wheel... i have a new ls2 block i will sell cheap with an eagle 3.9 stroke crank with rods and pistons this combo makes 398 ci and will spin like mad its just what the doctor ordered for a fast FI car i used this same combo in my 4th gen SS and made 790 wheel with a built 400 and a 3400 stall. I would get a 364 CI ls2 and be done. It will be fast as hell. Plus ls2 blocks are cheap. Some say the Ls3 can see core shift at 800 plus. some guys on tech start pinning the mains at 850 It is highly recommended to keep the caps from walking around for a good long living engine. I would pm mighty mouse .... Dave is super smart and knows a boat load about budget friendly and high end combos. He has always been very nice to me when i ask questions. I you have a stick car you will make 800 Wheel easy. Good Luck
02-23-2013, 09:06 AM
#31
You can get a new block for 700 i think...
Call ERL and just built short block with out all the reinforcements they do......or call Tx speed they do a good job. If you are on the east coast look at Golan engines. He is a nice humble guy. Your going to spend more money going 427 you dont need all those CI man but its your BBQ
if you look you dont see alot of real fast guys running big CI in Fi my last car was a 347 and it was retarded fast. plus that wet sump has had it fair share of issues as well. No one is going to know what CI you are running when the are behind you LOL good luck with your quest .
Call ERL and just built short block with out all the reinforcements they do......or call Tx speed they do a good job. If you are on the east coast look at Golan engines. He is a nice humble guy. Your going to spend more money going 427 you dont need all those CI man but its your BBQ
if you look you dont see alot of real fast guys running big CI in Fi my last car was a 347 and it was retarded fast. plus that wet sump has had it fair share of issues as well. No one is going to know what CI you are running when the are behind you LOL good luck with your quest .
Last edited by londonk; 02-23-2013 at 09:16 AM.