*** Special on Magnuson Heartbeat this Fall **
#2001
Last winter he refused to ship anything here and told me that "every order Ive had recently to Canada has been charged back". I asked what I could do to make it happen and he said order somewhere else. Maybe I didn't ask enough questions or he was having a bad day or something..I knew exactly what I wanted and he flat out refused quit rudely. Suffice it to say BTR is off my list of places to order from lol.
#2002
Burning Brakes
A word to the wise to the Heartbeat crowd. I smelled something funny coming home yesterday, and checked out the engine when I got home from work. I noticed a bit of coolant at the front of the lid, dripping down the front of the engine. I never really gave it much though, but I guess like anything dealing with vibration, the lid bolts have loosened up over time. I've got quite a few miles, so I guess I should have checked this previously. At any rate, you might want to check your lid bolts for proper tightness.
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#2003
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the heads up. only have 6,000 miles on mine and went to bed today until April.
#2004
A word to the wise to the Heartbeat crowd. I smelled something funny coming home yesterday, and checked out the engine when I got home from work. I noticed a bit of coolant at the front of the lid, dripping down the front of the engine. I never really gave it much though, but I guess like anything dealing with vibration, the lid bolts have loosened up over time. I've got quite a few miles, so I guess I should have checked this previously. At any rate, you might want to check your lid bolts for proper tightness.
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Chiselchst (11-01-2018)
#2005
#2006
Burning Brakes
You do know there is more us than you, Your offer is very kind. Maybe I could sell ice at that newly opened drag strip till April. Many days at work I would love to say bye and come down there and have some drinks with you.
#2007
#2008
Burning Brakes
Hi Sammy, it was coming from the front where the lid meets the bottom portion. Kind of hard to see, but definitely in that area. I am not sure of the coolant path inside the SC, but it was the SC coolant circuit for positive. My reservoir was low. All of my lid bolts needed tightening. After I pulled part of the fuel rail to get to the drivers side front bolt, I was able to stop the leak. Not sure about the two bastards in the back, engine was too hot for me to try and check those but no leakage back there on the ground, so I think I'm good.
#2009
Hi Sammy, it was coming from the front where the lid meets the bottom portion. Kind of hard to see, but definitely in that area. I am not sure of the coolant path inside the SC, but it was the SC coolant circuit for positive. My reservoir was low. All of my lid bolts needed tightening. After I pulled part of the fuel rail to get to the drivers side front bolt, I was able to stop the leak. Not sure about the two bastards in the back, engine was too hot for me to try and check those but no leakage back there on the ground, so I think I'm good.
I would check carefully to make sure that its not actually leaking where the pipe goes through the front of the blower and after that if you're convinced its coming from inside the lid, pull the lid off and check to see if there's any coolant inside the blower, because if that's happening, then you have a serious problem which, if the leak is bad enough, will fill one or more cylinders with coolant with catastrophic results. My advice would be to check it out properly before you drive the car again.
#2010
Burning Brakes
Thanks Sammy, I'll do that. Now that you mention it I do remember the coolant path is through the tubes into exchangers in either side of the lower unit. Crap. I was thinking there was a path through the front. It does run through tubes into the lower unit. It may be the leak is so small that it's being combusted.
I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
#2011
Thanks Sammy, I'll do that. Now that you mention it I do remember the coolant path is through the tubes into exchangers in either side of the lower unit. Crap. I was thinking there was a path through the front. It does run through tubes into the lower unit. It may be the leak is so small that it's being combusted.
I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
Sorry... I just had to.
#2012
Drifting
If it's leaking coolant under boost - wouldn't it be ingesting coolant under a vacuum?
Have you monitored the oil? When hot, it should be bright - with no hazy-ness. If there's any haziness, I'd be extremely concerned and have it taken care of fast. That coolant has to go somewhere...
Like Sammy says, the system shouldn't leak any coolant even if the lid bolts are loose.
Reminds me to check out mine closely...
I've been driving and enjoying, and not watching it closely.
Please keep us posted (w/o naked pics please)
Have you monitored the oil? When hot, it should be bright - with no hazy-ness. If there's any haziness, I'd be extremely concerned and have it taken care of fast. That coolant has to go somewhere...
Like Sammy says, the system shouldn't leak any coolant even if the lid bolts are loose.
Reminds me to check out mine closely...
I've been driving and enjoying, and not watching it closely.
Please keep us posted (w/o naked pics please)
#2014
Instructor
It depends how tight you are on fuel system and injector. Boost reference will help stretch the system due to the rising pressure (if the pump can maintain the requested pressure) but if you have enough injector and pump to maintain flow at full load without it then it won't really benefit you.
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Chiselchst (11-02-2018)
#2015
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 16,664
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St. Jude Donor '15
It depends how tight you are on fuel system and injector. Boost reference will help stretch the system due to the rising pressure (if the pump can maintain the requested pressure) but if you have enough injector and pump to maintain flow at full load without it then it won't really benefit you.
If you have enough pump and injector then no need
If you have more than enough pump but not enough injector then you can do this to get more fuel through the injectors
If you have more injector and not enough pump then def. don't want to do this
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CI GS (11-03-2018)
#2016
Oh, most importantly, this idea is basically driven by me also toying with the idea of buying a set of ID1050X injectors and a DSX flex fuel kit, so that I can run E85. Your thoughts, as always, are greatly appreciated.
Last edited by CI GS; 11-03-2018 at 10:29 AM.
#2017
Thanks Sammy, I'll do that. Now that you mention it I do remember the coolant path is through the tubes into exchangers in either side of the lower unit. Crap. I was thinking there was a path through the front. It does run through tubes into the lower unit. It may be the leak is so small that it's being combusted.
I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
#2019
#2020
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
Hey Carson. On a separate but collateral note: In order to deliver more fuel volume to the fuel rail, I’ve been toying with the idea of rerouting the fuel line on my ECS Stage 1 to run the same all the way up to the front of the car and tie it into the rail, either by using the ECS supplied quick-connect T or through the test port. In your view, could or should I use a return style regulator to return the excess fuel back to the tank through the return port on the ECS bulkhead? Or would the stock in-tank regulator handle the extra volume? Obviously, the advantage to this over the current ECS setup is that I would be using a separate -6 or -8 AN hose to deliver more volume up to the rail under boost, rather than route the extra fuel from the ECS pump through the single stock fuel line. Would this make sense?
Oh, most importantly, this idea is basically driven by me also toying with the idea of buying a set of ID1050X injectors and a DSX flex fuel kit, so that I can run E85. Your thoughts, as always, are greatly appreciated.
Oh, most importantly, this idea is basically driven by me also toying with the idea of buying a set of ID1050X injectors and a DSX flex fuel kit, so that I can run E85. Your thoughts, as always, are greatly appreciated.
I guess my concern would whether it's consistent or not. I mean if it consistently bumps fuel pressure to say 68psi when the second pump comes on then that's no problem to tune for. If it goes to 68psi when fuel is cold but only 63psi when fuel / pump are hot, then you'll have a tough time keeping fueling consistent since there aren't any fuel pressure sensors tied back to the ECM.
Sorry, I guess that isn't a very direct answer
If it's working fine now I bet it'll be fine without a dedicated return line though.. but I've got no facts to back that up
Last edited by schpenxel; 11-04-2018 at 07:18 PM.
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CI GS (11-04-2018)