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*** Special on Magnuson Heartbeat this Fall **

Old 10-15-2018, 12:00 AM
  #2001  
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Originally Posted by Garymorris
Last winter he refused to ship anything here and told me that "every order Ive had recently to Canada has been charged back". I asked what I could do to make it happen and he said order somewhere else. Maybe I didn't ask enough questions or he was having a bad day or something..I knew exactly what I wanted and he flat out refused quit rudely. Suffice it to say BTR is off my list of places to order from lol.
wow. That is pretty effed up.
Old 10-30-2018, 10:35 AM
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A word to the wise to the Heartbeat crowd. I smelled something funny coming home yesterday, and checked out the engine when I got home from work. I noticed a bit of coolant at the front of the lid, dripping down the front of the engine. I never really gave it much though, but I guess like anything dealing with vibration, the lid bolts have loosened up over time. I've got quite a few miles, so I guess I should have checked this previously. At any rate, you might want to check your lid bolts for proper tightness.
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Old 10-30-2018, 03:56 PM
  #2003  
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Thanks for the heads up. only have 6,000 miles on mine and went to bed today until April.
Old 10-30-2018, 04:52 PM
  #2004  
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Originally Posted by Woodstoc
A word to the wise to the Heartbeat crowd. I smelled something funny coming home yesterday, and checked out the engine when I got home from work. I noticed a bit of coolant at the front of the lid, dripping down the front of the engine. I never really gave it much though, but I guess like anything dealing with vibration, the lid bolts have loosened up over time. I've got quite a few miles, so I guess I should have checked this previously. At any rate, you might want to check your lid bolts for proper tightness.
Where was the coolant coming from? Or are you talking about the little Allen/button head bolts that hold the H/X manifold into the HX cores at the front of the lid? Because the only thing that would leak if the lid bolts loosened up would be boost. I’m going to check mine regardless. Pretty sure I used a little dab of blue locktite on them though.
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Old 10-30-2018, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by scottg
Thanks for the heads up. only have 6,000 miles on mine and went to bed today until April.
Just ship it down here for the winter Scotty. It’s friggin 87* outside as we speak.
Old 10-30-2018, 06:39 PM
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You do know there is more us than you, Your offer is very kind. Maybe I could sell ice at that newly opened drag strip till April. Many days at work I would love to say bye and come down there and have some drinks with you.
Old 10-30-2018, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by scottg
You do know there is more us than you, Your offer is very kind. Maybe I could sell ice at that newly opened drag strip till April. Many days at work I would love to say bye and come down there and have some drinks with you.
Sounds like a plan to me!
Old 10-31-2018, 10:46 AM
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Hi Sammy, it was coming from the front where the lid meets the bottom portion. Kind of hard to see, but definitely in that area. I am not sure of the coolant path inside the SC, but it was the SC coolant circuit for positive. My reservoir was low. All of my lid bolts needed tightening. After I pulled part of the fuel rail to get to the drivers side front bolt, I was able to stop the leak. Not sure about the two bastards in the back, engine was too hot for me to try and check those but no leakage back there on the ground, so I think I'm good.
Old 10-31-2018, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Woodstoc
Hi Sammy, it was coming from the front where the lid meets the bottom portion. Kind of hard to see, but definitely in that area. I am not sure of the coolant path inside the SC, but it was the SC coolant circuit for positive. My reservoir was low. All of my lid bolts needed tightening. After I pulled part of the fuel rail to get to the drivers side front bolt, I was able to stop the leak. Not sure about the two bastards in the back, engine was too hot for me to try and check those but no leakage back there on the ground, so I think I'm good.
Man, that's very worrying. If the coolant was actually coming from under the lid, that must mean that one or both of the charge air coolers are ruptured or somehow leaking, because they are normally sealed to the front of the lid and the coolant manifold pipes go through the front of the lid straight into the CACs. In any event, the only thing that should be leaking between the lid and the blower housing if the lid is loose is air (boost).
I would check carefully to make sure that its not actually leaking where the pipe goes through the front of the blower and after that if you're convinced its coming from inside the lid, pull the lid off and check to see if there's any coolant inside the blower, because if that's happening, then you have a serious problem which, if the leak is bad enough, will fill one or more cylinders with coolant with catastrophic results. My advice would be to check it out properly before you drive the car again.
Old 11-01-2018, 03:46 PM
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Thanks Sammy, I'll do that. Now that you mention it I do remember the coolant path is through the tubes into exchangers in either side of the lower unit. Crap. I was thinking there was a path through the front. It does run through tubes into the lower unit. It may be the leak is so small that it's being combusted.

I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
Old 11-01-2018, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Woodstoc
Thanks Sammy, I'll do that. Now that you mention it I do remember the coolant path is through the tubes into exchangers in either side of the lower unit. Crap. I was thinking there was a path through the front. It does run through tubes into the lower unit. It may be the leak is so small that it's being combusted.

I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
Actually, the charge air coolers are mounted in and bolted to, the lid itself. The HX coolant pipes go through the front of the lid straight into the CACs and are held in place by some small button-head Allen bolts. Make sure to check it out good, because we don't want you to mash up your engine and have to walk home naked!!!
Sorry... I just had to.
Old 11-01-2018, 07:21 PM
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If it's leaking coolant under boost - wouldn't it be ingesting coolant under a vacuum?
Have you monitored the oil? When hot, it should be bright - with no hazy-ness. If there's any haziness, I'd be extremely concerned and have it taken care of fast. That coolant has to go somewhere...
Like Sammy says, the system shouldn't leak any coolant even if the lid bolts are loose.
Reminds me to check out mine closely...
I've been driving and enjoying, and not watching it closely.
Please keep us posted (w/o naked pics please)


Old 11-01-2018, 07:26 PM
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Hey folks,
Is there ever any benefit to do a boost reference FP on the Heartbeat system, if boost is <13?
I know with crazy high boost it's needed, but what about the Maggie HB's?
TIA!!!!
Old 11-01-2018, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Chiselchst
Hey folks,
Is there ever any benefit to do a boost reference FP on the Heartbeat system, if boost is <13?
I know with crazy high boost it's needed, but what about the Maggie HB's?
TIA!!!!
It depends how tight you are on fuel system and injector. Boost reference will help stretch the system due to the rising pressure (if the pump can maintain the requested pressure) but if you have enough injector and pump to maintain flow at full load without it then it won't really benefit you.
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Old 11-02-2018, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Garymorris
It depends how tight you are on fuel system and injector. Boost reference will help stretch the system due to the rising pressure (if the pump can maintain the requested pressure) but if you have enough injector and pump to maintain flow at full load without it then it won't really benefit you.
Yep.

If you have enough pump and injector then no need

If you have more than enough pump but not enough injector then you can do this to get more fuel through the injectors

If you have more injector and not enough pump then def. don't want to do this
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Yep.

If you have enough pump and injector then no need

If you have more than enough pump but not enough injector then you can do this to get more fuel through the injectors

If you have more injector and not enough pump then def. don't want to do this
Hey Carson. On a separate but collateral note: In order to deliver more fuel volume to the fuel rail, I’ve been toying with the idea of rerouting the fuel line on my ECS Stage 1 to run the same all the way up to the front of the car and tie it into the rail, either by using the ECS supplied quick-connect T or through the test port. In your view, could or should I use a return style regulator to return the excess fuel back to the tank through the return port on the ECS bulkhead? Or would the stock in-tank regulator handle the extra volume? Obviously, the advantage to this over the current ECS setup is that I would be using a separate -6 or -8 AN hose to deliver more volume up to the rail under boost, rather than route the extra fuel from the ECS pump through the single stock fuel line. Would this make sense?
Oh, most importantly, this idea is basically driven by me also toying with the idea of buying a set of ID1050X injectors and a DSX flex fuel kit, so that I can run E85. Your thoughts, as always, are greatly appreciated.

Last edited by CI GS; 11-03-2018 at 10:29 AM.
Old 11-03-2018, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Woodstoc
Thanks Sammy, I'll do that. Now that you mention it I do remember the coolant path is through the tubes into exchangers in either side of the lower unit. Crap. I was thinking there was a path through the front. It does run through tubes into the lower unit. It may be the leak is so small that it's being combusted.

I've been driving without any issues, the leak stopped (from the outside when I tightened the lid bolts, and I haven't seen any indication of white smoke. I have to use it today and tomorrow, I'll try to pull it this weekend.
To help illustrate what I was saying about how the HX coolant is routed, here’s a picture of my stock lid with the HX pipe manifold removed, sitting next to the Camaro lid that I’m currently running. You can see where the CACs seal against the front of the lid. So, if the screws that hold the CACs (which come assembled with the lid from Magnuson) aren’t tightened properly or if they loosen, you could possibly leak coolant inside the blower, with ultimately disasterous results:


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Old 11-03-2018, 09:35 PM
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Sammy,
Not to deviate - but how much lower did your IAT's get with the Camaro lid?
That's a substantial difference (CAC size).
TIA!
Old 11-03-2018, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Chiselchst
Sammy,
Not to deviate - but how much lower did your IAT's get with the Camaro lid?
That's a substantial difference (CAC size).
TIA!
Relying on memory, I would say about 10-20 degrees at WOT. I’ll check a few logs and let you know what they show. I still need to install the ZL1 HX pump, btw. I think that will help too. The dry 50 shot I just installed should help a little too.
Old 11-04-2018, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
Hey Carson. On a separate but collateral note: In order to deliver more fuel volume to the fuel rail, I’ve been toying with the idea of rerouting the fuel line on my ECS Stage 1 to run the same all the way up to the front of the car and tie it into the rail, either by using the ECS supplied quick-connect T or through the test port. In your view, could or should I use a return style regulator to return the excess fuel back to the tank through the return port on the ECS bulkhead? Or would the stock in-tank regulator handle the extra volume? Obviously, the advantage to this over the current ECS setup is that I would be using a separate -6 or -8 AN hose to deliver more volume up to the rail under boost, rather than route the extra fuel from the ECS pump through the single stock fuel line. Would this make sense?
Oh, most importantly, this idea is basically driven by me also toying with the idea of buying a set of ID1050X injectors and a DSX flex fuel kit, so that I can run E85. Your thoughts, as always, are greatly appreciated.
Hmmm that's a tough one without trying it. I would personally probably run a return since you're running that bigass second pump if I remember correctly. Though it might be just fine without it.. maybe it bumps fuel pressure a bit when the regulator can't keep up or something but ultimately doesn't make a lot of difference.

I guess my concern would whether it's consistent or not. I mean if it consistently bumps fuel pressure to say 68psi when the second pump comes on then that's no problem to tune for. If it goes to 68psi when fuel is cold but only 63psi when fuel / pump are hot, then you'll have a tough time keeping fueling consistent since there aren't any fuel pressure sensors tied back to the ECM.

Sorry, I guess that isn't a very direct answer

If it's working fine now I bet it'll be fine without a dedicated return line though.. but I've got no facts to back that up

Last edited by schpenxel; 11-04-2018 at 07:18 PM.
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