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Mitch, looking at your photos, I can see something similar to what I’ve noticed on my car, since I’ve switched over to the 8-rib setup. There’s a shiny, silvery coating on the back/smooth side of the belt. I think this is the clear coat wearing off the IW idler. Makes me wonder if the same thing happens on the ribbed pulleys as well.
Hhhmmmm.....never noticed that. I am monitoring for any belt dust. So far not a bit! Man, the car will rip your face off
Originally Posted by CI GS
Mitch, looking at your photos, I can see something similar to what I’ve noticed on my car, since I’ve switched over to the 8-rib setup. There’s a shiny, silvery coating on the back/smooth side of the belt. I think this is the clear coat wearing off the IW idler. Makes me wonder if the same thing happens on the ribbed pulleys as well.
NPP system with modd'ed Z06 mufflers went on. M2W box not working at Abel Chevrolet, then begins working while I'm driving home playing with the remote. Problem is, now the exhaust is rubbing on the frame / whatever pretty bad. In more than one place Both muffs were up against the rear sway bar. I fixed that for a test with heater hose & clamps. Now it's worse. It;s got tension from stuff misaligned. Taking it to another old school muffler shop. The cans I put on had to have the 3" inlet pipe welding back on when I got them, as the previous removal wound up with them being cut off to same time. No comment..
But I can now start my car (in the garage) without too many car alarms going off
Thinking about a 170 Amp Mechman <sp> alternator. I think the ProSpeed fans and the EMP IC pump are the culprit for my voltage at idle to get as low as ~13 volts. Might have dipped below that a rare time or two
750whp - man this is a different car
ETA; I don't care for the sound, kind of tinny. I'm thinking about modding some base NPP mufflers that I picked up. They're the exact same as the ZR1 / Z06 'cept for the 3" to 2-1/2" swedged inlets. Every other measurement is the exact same...might convert to true 3" internals and put the packing back in as many have done. That's a lot of work though...
Last edited by Chiselchst; 06-06-2019 at 01:05 AM.
There’s nothing more annoying than an exhaust rattle, unless it’s two rattles. Those over-axle pipes have a series of bends to get around the transmission and up over the axles, so it would probably be next to impossible to get a regular muffler shop to bend you some new ones that don’t rub, IMV. Unless they have a set of stock pipes that they can use as a “template” to make the bends.
The 2.5” NPP mufflers will work fine, if the over-axle pipes weren’t cut off. I don’t think they will affect power either. And the smaller 2.5” mufflers produce a banshee-like scream at WOT.
A Mechman 170 amp alternator is a good investment. The bad news is that your fancy new $100 8-rib IW alternator pulley won’t work on it. The good news is that the Mechman hard anodized 8-rib pulley is a fraction of the cost of the IW. I would contact Brett and see if you can order it with an 8-rib pulley on it. I would order from him in any event. Great guy to deal with.
I bet that car is a handful. I don’t mess around with mine on the street anymore, because it would get out of hand in a hurry. It’s impressive that you’re making that kind of power through the stock Magnuson air intake/filter assembly.
Next step for me is to redo the intake pipe on mine so that I can fit a decent filter on it. I got a feeling there’s a few more hp in waiting there. I want to try to get it to run a 6.0 in the 1/8. That’s the equivalent of a mid-9 second quarter mile ET, so I’ll be more than happy with that.
They make improved rubber mounts or do like I did and put a hose clamp around the rubber mount and tighten it until the vibration/noise goes away.
The rear hangers move too much.
I don’t have any problems with the factory hangers now, but after I installed the Pfadt headers/x-pipe, my mufflers used to hit on the factory sway bar as well, which I tried to get rid of by adjusting the mufflers, to no avail. However, when I installed the Eibach swaybars on my car, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the rear bar had just a little more clearance and the only time the mufflers touch the swaybar now is when I have the car on the lift and the suspension is at full droop.
What a good idea! I was looking at that and didn't even think of that!
Originally Posted by Sphurley
They make improved rubber mounts or do like I did and put a hose clamp around the rubber mount and tighten it until the vibration/noise goes away.
The rear hangers move too much.
Sammy good info, I'll contact him. And yeah there's not much room in there. My 3" system rubbed (somewhere) since install years ago. I do want to play with a stock muff and do the 3" straight through, maybe...
Last edited by Chiselchst; 06-06-2019 at 11:39 PM.
Below are a few photos of my new homemade 4.5” inlet/filter system, using a vibrant 4.5” 90 degree elbow and my old Halltech MF103 air filter (which is what Synergy uses for their ZR1 CAI systems). I used some play dough to check and it literally has about 1/2” clearance between the hood and the top of the elbow. Bear in mind that I have the RK sport Z06 Violator hood, which probably has more clearance up front that any other hood, including the ZR1 hood.
The difference in area of filter media to my old $24 Vibrant filter is night and day. The Halltech has to be able to flow at least twice as much air as the Vibrant filter. I just need to redo the radiator cover now, to fit this.
I took it for a test drive yesterday and did a quick hit and it’s leaning out bad at WOT (.91 lambda on the AFR vs. .78 commanded). Luckily, I didn’t hold it down, because I could feel it was down on power. It’s definitely making more boost and appears to be making it quicker too, from what I could see from my short WOT burst. I don’t see any KR on the log though. Was probably too lean to knock, lol. I’m hoping that this is a good sign and when I get the AFR where it needs to be, it will make some more power.
Below are a few photos of my new homemade 4.5” inlet/filter system, using a vibrant 4.5” 90 degree elbow and my old Halltech MF103 air filter (which is what Synergy uses for their ZR1 CAI systems). I used some play dough to check and it literally has about 1/2” clearance between the hood and the top of the elbow. Bear in mind that I have the RK sport Z06 Violator hood, which probably has more clearance up front that any other hood, including the ZR1 hood.
The difference in area of filter media to my old $24 Vibrant filter is night and day. The Halltech has to be able to flow at least twice as much air as the Vibrant filter. I just need to redo the radiator cover now, to fit this.
I took it for a test drive yesterday and did a quick hit and it’s leaning out bad at WOT (.91 lambda on the AFR vs. .78 commanded). Luckily, I didn’t hold it down, because I could feel it was down on power. It’s definitely making more boost and appears to be making it quicker too, from what I could see from my short WOT burst. I don’t see any KR on the log though. Was probably too lean to knock, lol. I’m hoping that this is a good sign and when I get the AFR where it needs to be, it will make some more power.
Hi Joe. That’s a dry nitrous nozzle, hence it’s position upstream from the MAF. It’s only a small shot (.031” jet). I almost didn’t install it, because I don’t know if I’ll have enough headroom on IDC with full E85. Last couple of runs at the track with the old filter and a 67% mix, it was peaking at ~82% IDC at 7000rpm, so I wouldn’t dare turn on the nitrous. It still ran 2 tenths better (6.1 vs. 6.3) than it used to run on MS109 with the nitrous. I’m wishing now I had spent the extra money and bought the ID1300s, though, because I would like to see what a little shot of N2O would do on it now.
I've never run meth on my car.
Hi Joe. That’s a dry nitrous nozzle, hence it’s position upstream from the MAF. It’s only a small shot (.031” jet). I almost didn’t install it, because I don’t know if I’ll have enough headroom on IDC with full E85. Last couple of runs at the track with the old filter and a 67% mix, it was peaking at ~82% IDC at 7000rpm, so I wouldn’t dare turn on the nitrous. It still ran 2 tenths better (6.1 vs. 6.3) than it used to run on MS109 with the nitrous. I’m wishing now I had spent the extra money and bought the ID1300s, though, because I would like to see what a little shot of N2O would do on it now.
I've never run meth on my car.
My apologies, looked like a pro meth nozzle. Carry on with the party 👍
Sammy used to be a good boy, then he fell in with a bad crowd, and in particular was very badly influenced by a Texan named Rodney...
Sammy, I can't believe you're on poor Rodney after all the good info he has prompted you to do. And don't forget all the words we heard coming out of your garage late at night.
Sammy, I can't believe you're on poor Rodney after all the good info he has prompted you to do. And don't forget all the words we heard coming out of your garage late at night.
06-02-2019, 09:56 AM
Bear in mind that I have the RK sport Z06 Violator hood, which probably has more clearance up front that any other hood, including the ZR1 hood.
