Woodstoc

Cat needs to "leave"...

CI GS

It is what it is Larry. This is a small problem. One of the challenges I have this week is arranging to fly a welder in from Miami to weld the boom on my big 80 tonne excavator back together, after it snapped in two on Saturday while we were digging in 30+ feet of water. This belt problem is nothing compared to that. If I told you some of the **** that I have to go through down here, you'd cry for sure. It only looks like paradise if you're a tourist.
BTW: I really appreciate you not telling the guys on here how we got overtaken by that Hyundai the other day. Just so you know, I really do only drive that slow with a passenger in the car.

schpenxel

I've seen your logs, you sure as hell don't drive slow on your own

CI GS

Me??? Whatchu talkin' 'bout Willis??!

Woodstoc

LOL, told off on yourself there buddy. I think Sammy is faking the logs, not place long enough to bust that thing loose over there......lol

CI GS

That's right Larry. You've figured it out. You're going to be the first witness I call if they charge me with speeding.

CI GS

Tested the car with the old Napa/Gates yellow stripe belt yesterday (my new one is at FedEx, but yesterday was another public holiday, so I couldn't get my hands on it).
The good news is that the engine seems fine, so it looks like I might have gotten lucky with that (fingers crossed). The belt appears to still be slipping some, but not as bad as before, probably because I cleaned the coolant off it. I think I saw around 11.3psi at one point in the scan, but it appears to still be moving around a bit up top. The belt is definitely still stretching under the pressure of the ECS tensioner though, because it looks even longer now than before I drove the car.
It's also running pig rich now too:- 10.2:1 AFR, so the ECS fuel pump must be doing its job.
But it's also going into reduced engine power ("REP") mode at the top of third, which it has done a couple of times before. It will also do that if I nail it at a slow speed and it kicks down hard into 1st. Looks like it had stored a P2101 DTC, which has to do with the TB operating outside its commanded position. A casual read through on HPT forums tells me that this happens to lots of folks, apparently for lots of different reasons, including when the TB blade sticks or flutters or the intake hose collapses.
I've asked my tuner buddy to have another go at the tune, so I'm sure we'll get this show on the road again soon.
I'll keep you all posted.

realcanuk

There's a table to adjust for that. Not at computer so forget what it's called. Also wouldn't kick down hard with a blower on there. Trannies don't like that much.

CI GS

Yeah, I saw a discussion about that on HPT forums. It only started this crap lately though, so I'm trying to figure out what's causing it.
I honestly try to avoid it kicking down hard Most of the time, by rolling into the throttle, but if I'm going slow enough it will kick down into 1st and instantly blow the tires away and bang on the limiter and that sends it straight into REP mode.

CI GS

FedEx dropped the new belt off at the office this morning.
Will install it tonight if I get a chance.
This one is exactly an inch longer than the last one, so it should work.

CI GS

Got the new belt on earlier tonight. Fits pretty good, you can feel that there's no give in these belts. With the yellow stripe Napa/Gates belt, I could take the belt tensioner tool and push the tensioner inwards and feel the belt stretch. You can't do that with the RPM belts, they have no stretch in them. One thing I did notice is that the ICT manual Billet tensioner is flexing a little bit when I put some pressure on the belt. It's not the sturdiest of pieces (hell it only costs less than $50), but it's the only that can work with the ECS tensioner. There is no way that you can use the Comp or Katech style manual tensioner (ask me how I know) or even the stock spring tensioner bottomed out, because they are so much shorter than the ICT and have so much less range, that the belt will hit the bolt boss on the Magnuson tensioner bracket assembly onto the water pump, which you can see in the middle of the photo below.
So, if the ICT tensioner can't cut it, I'll probably end up having to pull the ECS tensioner off and just go back to a stock style tensioner with the 98" belt (which I have a plethora of already).
I'll see how it goes as soon as we have a day with no rain again.

ls1wolf

I know you know this already, but its one of the main reasons I use the paddles 99% of the time. Especially when I do a punch from low speed (usually in 2nd, even though I know the computer would pull it down to 1st). That way it seems easier on the 6l80 as well. Then when I'm in the throttle, throw it in D and let the computer shift.

CI GS

Yep, I've done that as well on occasion. I've also tweaked my WOT 2-1 shift speeds to try to avoid it kicking down into first as much as possible, because it feels downright violent when it used to kick down from say 20mph into 1st.
My big worry now is that it's going into REP mode at say ~6700rpm in third, without hitting the limiter. When I checked it the other night, it had two codes stored, as you can see from the picture below that I took of my laptop screen. One is the P2101 code that I mentioned that has to do with the throttle position and the other is this old P0315 crank relearn code that I had ever since I changed the cam. Not sure WTF is up with that. It hasn't thrown a MIL in ages, except when it goes into REP. I thought I had done the crank relearn way back when by revving it until it it hit the fuel cutout in first gear, etc., but who knows with the way that's supposed to work. GM has some really stupid logic with those things, IMV.

schpenxel

The P2101 permanent one will probably take a bit to clear, with permanent codes you can't erase them, so the ECM just has to see everything is OK for a while before it will go away.

The other one.. might be worth trying another crank re-learn if you're already familiar with how to do it

CI GS

The P2101 will probably be with me a while then, since I don't ever get enough time to actually drive this damn car. I also don't have enough road, come to think of it...

Not sure how the pictures that I posted appear on your all screens, but when I posted them from my iPad they were the right way up, and now one is upside down and the other is sideways?? WTF?

Curt D

My tune allows me to use the paddles to downshift (or upshift), but I can just hit it and it will shift for me. Just eliminates the need to push it into D.

I'm still thinking of getting the Heartbeat. From what I have gathered...coolant and oil temps will rise slightly but it is less than a big centri intercooler does. Is this a correct assumption? I will prob have to move my trans cooler behind a fog light and may do an oil cooler on the other side if needed.

ls1wolf

Mine is tuned like that as well - but theres something in my brain that makes scared to leave it like that... hence while I push it to Drive.

No noticeable temp rise for me. Trans cooler is a great idea, can use a Hayden style cooler in front of the rad like others have done.

Curt D

Cool...thx. I have a B&m in front of the rad now. Running a yank 3200 with the cam.

CI GS

I don't think you need to move your trans fluid cooler behind a fog light, which would require a dedicated fan to pull air through it, etc. And I can't see how that will work any better than a good 3/4" Hayden plate and fin cooler, sandwiched between the AC condensor core and the radiator, like how I have had mine set up since I installed the Hbeat. I also no longer run the trans oil cooler in series with the in rad cooler, and I think it works better that way. With that setup, my trans temps would run in the 170-195* range, even in traffic, with a 3600 stall converter. Based on what I observed the other day, my engine oil temps will typically run in the 205-215* range after a 2 hour long drive in 93* weather. I'm not running any kind of engine oil cooler.

Curt D

Nice. My cooler is 3/4 think and there is enough slack in the braided line that I should just be able to relocate it. I did bypass the trans cooler in the radiator. I don't have an oil cooler on mine.
This makes my decision easier