*** Special on Magnuson Heartbeat this Fall **
#2221
Sammy, you have done more with these accessories drive & belts than probably anyone with the HB on a C6! Damn, and you have not been rewarded with much luck either!
Man I can certainly understand the frustration. You've done better than I would have LOL I'm not too good with patience, especially wrenching.
You saved me a shitload of money when I switch to corn, add a cam & CNC heads! I'll keep boost at 10# max...
If I'm ever, I'll pay it back
Having said that can't wait for your 60-ft's to drop, and the vid! You'll be king of the Island!
I'll start a go fund me for Carson to fly his car over so you can find get a race, LOL...
Man I can certainly understand the frustration. You've done better than I would have LOL I'm not too good with patience, especially wrenching.
You saved me a shitload of money when I switch to corn, add a cam & CNC heads! I'll keep boost at 10# max...
If I'm ever, I'll pay it back
Having said that can't wait for your 60-ft's to drop, and the vid! You'll be king of the Island!
I'll start a go fund me for Carson to fly his car over so you can find get a race, LOL...
I’m hoping to wring another 10th or two out of it and then I’ll decide if I’m going to spend $1750 on a set ID1300Xs and another few hundred on a DSX Flex fuel kit, reconfigure the fuel system, etc. so that I can run straight C85 or Ignite. I’m thinking that should be good for at least 30whp without even dialing more timing in though, just from the additional cooling. I would need to retune it at the track all over again though.
I’m working on getting Carson down here for a weekend so he can tune it properly for me, but don’t tell him I told you, lol. He’s been slingshotting all over the globe recently though, so I’m not sure he has the time.
BTW: you should hear and see the difference the BAP makes with the HX pump. I’ll do a short video and post it up soon. I don’t think even the ZR1 pump can pump more than that old Bosch with 18V of juice.
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Chiselchst (02-15-2019)
#2222
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St. Jude Donor '15
And here I was thinking I was going to get a nice relaxing long weekend on the island
#2223
Seriously though, I would like your (and anyone else’s, for that matter) opinion on whether you think it’s worth it for me to do the switch to C85 (from VP MS109) at this stage and how hard do you think it would be for me to get the tune dialed in. I would also need to figure out whether the ECS Stage 1 system would suffice, with a dedicated -8AN line run up front to a bypass regulator, teed into the fuel rail port, with a -6AN return back to the ECS Block on the tank. I already have everything I need for the fuel system. Just not looking forward to the toxic fuel smell lingering in the garage again.
Obviously, I would change the injectors as well to ID1300Xs.
Maybe I should start another E85 thread and see what kind of controversial debate that will spark...
#2224
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St. Jude Donor '15
I’m not sure you’ll gain a whole lot going to e85 from what you’re on now but others would have a better idea than me. Hopefully someone that has done it chimes in on your other thread
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CI GS (02-15-2019)
#2225
Burning Brakes
Regarding E85.
My ecs stage 1 kit with the a1000 doesn’t include a fuel filter. Should that be added when using a flex fuel setup? And if so, where would it be installed?
My ecs stage 1 kit with the a1000 doesn’t include a fuel filter. Should that be added when using a flex fuel setup? And if so, where would it be installed?
#2226
Most people put the filter on the suction/inlet side of the pump, but ECS fuel block already has a strainer “sock” on it, so I don’t think there’s any chance of dirt getting into the pump. I would be cautious about adding one downstream on the pressure side, since you’ll be pushing ~58psi through it, so no matter how good it is, there’s always the possibility it could leak. But, maybe one of the Aeromotive inline filters with a S/S element could work. I don’t think you need it though, once you make sure to flush the hoses properly before you connect it all up.
#2227
Burning Brakes
Thanks Sammy. Always appreciated!
#2228
#2229
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St. Jude Donor '15
Get you one of them fancy ID fuel filters for the low low price of $300
Last edited by schpenxel; 02-21-2019 at 11:36 AM.
#2230
#2231
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St. Jude Donor '15
They are quite awesome to look at.. I considered one but quickly changed my mind when I saw the price. I'd have to cut a hole in my hood to show that thing off if I had one
#2232
Well fellas, I’m heading back to the track tomorrow. Spent the evening at the track helping to prep the start line and I have a few tips on how to tune the suspension from subfloor (thanks Christopher). I’ve also switched from the 27.5” tall 295/55/15 Hoosiers to a 28.25” tall 275/60/15 DR2, so I’m looking to hook this thing up tomorrow and improve my 60’ times. Hopefully, I won’t break anything and I’ll be able to report back on here with some decent results tomorrow night. Fingers crossed...
#2233
#2234
Well, not such a good day today...
The good news is that the new tires and suspension settings are working, because even on a shitty, balding start line, I managed to pull a 1.41 60’ (I know that doesn’t sound like much, but trust me when I say it’s no mean feat on our crap track surface).
The bad news is that once it shifted into second, where it was making 12.6 psi, it appears that it started to dump the belt partially off and then the boost fell to around 8 psi and got worse from there. It shifted fine and there was no dramatic drop in power, but it just didn’t feel like it was pulling through the traps like before, and when I braked and went to turn into the return lane, I realized that I had no power steering and then the temperature started climbing until it reached about 240* by the time I parked it. Sure enough, when I lifted the hood, the belt was off - it had sliced the green belt in two for about one third of the circumference and the belt was completely off the pulleys.
BUT, I somehow still managed to run a 6.3, albeit @ only 107mph, with a 1.41 60’, so I know that run would’ve been a personal best for me in this car. So that sucks. And this belt thing is really, really, really driving me up the fukin wall. In all fairness, I think it’s because the belt was a bit too short (96.5”) and the tensioner is literally almost completely closed, so I figure it slammed off the stop in the fully closed position when I made the gear change (at 7100) and that spilled the belt and then the edge of the tensioner sliced it and eventually dumped it off completely. Luckily I had a spare 98” 6-rib with me, so I put that on so I could drive it home.
The good news is that the new tires and suspension settings are working, because even on a shitty, balding start line, I managed to pull a 1.41 60’ (I know that doesn’t sound like much, but trust me when I say it’s no mean feat on our crap track surface).
The bad news is that once it shifted into second, where it was making 12.6 psi, it appears that it started to dump the belt partially off and then the boost fell to around 8 psi and got worse from there. It shifted fine and there was no dramatic drop in power, but it just didn’t feel like it was pulling through the traps like before, and when I braked and went to turn into the return lane, I realized that I had no power steering and then the temperature started climbing until it reached about 240* by the time I parked it. Sure enough, when I lifted the hood, the belt was off - it had sliced the green belt in two for about one third of the circumference and the belt was completely off the pulleys.
BUT, I somehow still managed to run a 6.3, albeit @ only 107mph, with a 1.41 60’, so I know that run would’ve been a personal best for me in this car. So that sucks. And this belt thing is really, really, really driving me up the fukin wall. In all fairness, I think it’s because the belt was a bit too short (96.5”) and the tensioner is literally almost completely closed, so I figure it slammed off the stop in the fully closed position when I made the gear change (at 7100) and that spilled the belt and then the edge of the tensioner sliced it and eventually dumped it off completely. Luckily I had a spare 98” 6-rib with me, so I put that on so I could drive it home.
Last edited by CI GS; 02-24-2019 at 09:03 PM.
#2235
Burning Brakes
Belt issues over trans issues. I’ll take belt issues! But still a pain.
What belt eat should you be running? (Size)?
What belt eat should you be running? (Size)?
#2236
Team Owner
#2237
BTW: Speaking of replacing the aux fuel pump, what do you guys think of the Fuelab Prodigy pumps, as a replacement for the AEM 380 (which isn't ethanol rated)? I'm also looking at the Aeromotive A1000 brushless.
#2238
Team Owner
The ID stuff is well worth it. I've been down the street where they are assembled, and when you see the engineering, care, and parts inside, you get why it is a $300 fuel filter, and why it is worth it.
No experience with any of those pumps so can't comment. I need to buy a new FPR and can't decide on that. Just aeromotive (which one?) or do the fore reg? My aeromotive in there now works great, no issues, but it is red, and moving it back to engine bay, so don't want it to stand out.
No experience with any of those pumps so can't comment. I need to buy a new FPR and can't decide on that. Just aeromotive (which one?) or do the fore reg? My aeromotive in there now works great, no issues, but it is red, and moving it back to engine bay, so don't want it to stand out.
#2239
I believe I should be running a 98" belt, but there's no green belt equivalent in that size so I had forced a K080968HD on it, which is 97.5", which is why the tensioner was fully closed.
I really do believe that's what caused it to jump off - the tensioner slammed closed on the 1-2 shift and bounced off the stop. That's happened to me before when I had too short a belt on the car. You could say that this damn car has put a belting on me over the years...
Last edited by CI GS; 02-25-2019 at 11:06 AM.
#2240
The ID stuff is well worth it. I've been down the street where they are assembled, and when you see the engineering, care, and parts inside, you get why it is a $300 fuel filter, and why it is worth it.
No experience with any of those pumps so can't comment. I need to buy a new FPR and can't decide on that. Just aeromotive (which one?) or do the fore reg? My aeromotive in there now works great, no issues, but it is red, and moving it back to engine bay, so don't want it to stand out.
No experience with any of those pumps so can't comment. I need to buy a new FPR and can't decide on that. Just aeromotive (which one?) or do the fore reg? My aeromotive in there now works great, no issues, but it is red, and moving it back to engine bay, so don't want it to stand out.
Here's what I plan to use. Bought it already, in fact:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...3129/overview/