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Yah they have the 13129, but also 13136, 13130, 13138 which are all black EFI regulators. So confusing which is the correct one.
I guess it comes down to how many outlets you need and what size you want the outlets to be, as well as how compact you need the regulator to be.
I’m a big believer in Aeromotive stuff. I installed one of their regulators on my previous boat (Procharged 540 Dart BBC motor) that was Huge, with 4 -10AN outlets. It worked flawlessly for my blow-through carb setup, even after laying the boat up for months at a time. It’s been on that boat for over 12 years and it’s still going - never even had to change the diaphragm. The A1000 pump that I had bolted to a bulkhead in the bilge of the boat worked for over 10 years too, although I changed it out right before I sold the boat a couple of years back for a black coast guard certified A1000. For me Aeromotive has always worked as good as they look.
So you guys speaking of this ID fuel filter, I found it online.. yep, its $300... yikes. But where in the system do you mount it? after the A1000 pump on my ECS stage 1 E85 kit?
So you guys speaking of this ID fuel filter, I found it online.. yep, its $300... yikes. But where in the system do you mount it? after the A1000 pump on my ECS stage 1 E85 kit?
To be honest, that thing is not only a work of art, but it has some pretty damn neat features, like the Delta P indicator. I think it’s worth every penny of the $300, to be honest.
As it can handle high pressure, you could install this up front. I’m thinking that if I do my fuel system over, I’ll install one of these up under the front femderwell, next to the washer reservoir (like where most folks put their meth pumps)
Yes, before injectors. The whole point of a good fuel filter like that is to protect the injectors.
No effect on fuel pressure, until it clogs, which is why you should maintenance it on a regular schedule. Maybe once a year pop it open and clean the element.
I don't think it matters, but typically after the pump I would think, just to catch anything coming off the pump. Typically you would run a larger prefilter prior to pump to catch huge chunks, and then this to protect the injectors. IMO the fuel sock on the ECS kit is more than enough of a prefilter.
I don't think it matters, but typically after the pump I would think, just to catch anything coming off the pump. Typically you would run a larger prefilter prior to pump to catch huge chunks, and then this to protect the injectors. IMO the fuel sock on the ECS kit is more than enough of a prefilter.
Yep, all of that makes perfect sense. And for those who don’t have the space or don’t want to spend the $300++ (by the time you buy the bracket and fittings, etc.) on the ID filter, there are some other decent, cheaper options, like the Aeromotive #12375, which has a Microglass filter element that’s compatible with alcohol fuels and are rated up to 3,000 hp ()!
The beauty with these inline canister filters is that they are very lightweight, so you can place them inline up front in the engine bay and you don’t even have to bracket mount them to anything. This one even has integral -8AN nipples (another nip pic, just for you, Unreal), so you don’t need to buy those fittings separate.
If comes with bracket, pressure port, sensor port, quick bleed off, and all those features built in. The filtration is also no where near as good.
Okay, but that’s not what ID’s online order page indicates. It lists, as add-ons to the $300 price, +$12.97 for each -8AN fitting, +$70.00 for the bracket and +$50 for the matte black edition. And you can opt to pay a further $200 for their very nice temperature/pressure module as an add-on. It’s a nice piece, no doubt, but it is expensive. It also offers 6 micron filtering vs. 10 micron for the Aeromotive 12375, but I would bet that 10 micron filtering is still a hell of a lot better than what the factory in tank filter/sock offers.
Fittings are needed no matter what filter, bracket comes with it. The $70 bracket is a R35 (GTR) bracket made specifically for the GTR.
One of the major points of the ID750 is that "micron" filtering is a sales gimmick stuff, and you need to see actual curves and flow charts. Which is all covered in the manual. Saying 10 micron filter means just about nothing without the rest of the technical information.
Regarding that fuel filter; damn pretty piece. Love the dP indicator. All filters should have them...
I was curious bout the micron filtration levels...I was reading it did (don't quote me) like 10 mic at 87% eff, and 100% at 35 micron?
If so, are those the numbers we are targeting?
...adding to my list of stuff
________________
Sammy, quick question - how much better would we HB folks do installing an Edelbrook I/C Hx? Are they that much better?
Last edited by Chiselchst; 03-01-2019 at 03:13 PM.
Regarding that fuel filter; damn pretty piece. Love the dP indicator. All filters should have them...
I was curious bout the micron filtration levels...I was reading it did (don't quote me) like 10 mic at 87% eff, and 100% at 35 micron?
If so, are those the numbers we are targeting?
...adding to my list of stuff
________________
Sammy, quick question - how much better would we HB folks do installing an Edelbrook I/C Hx? Are they that much better?
Yeah, I'm not taking anything away from that ID filter. Like everything else they make, it definitely looks like the pinnacle product on the market in terms of design and quality.
I really have no idea on the Edelbrock H/X core. I believe it is a step up from the Magnuson, which is reportedly an upgrade on the factory ZR1 core.
BTW: I'm going to install the ZL1 HX pump on my car soon, when I change the water pump. I've discovered that the pulley on my WP is the culprit for the squealing I'm hearing, since I managed to fuuk up the surface of the WP pulley with a grinding tool when I cut the bolt bosses off the WP to fit the regular ECS HD tensioner on it months ago, and for some reason the 8-rib belt doesn't like the couple of knurled spots on the pulley.
In order to get the Edelbrock pump to work on my car, I have ordered the early style Heartbeat tensioner/idler bracket from Magnuson, as well as their HD LS3 Corvette tensioner. I am going to use a couple of 45* couplers to move the HX hoses out of the way of the tensioner, since that's what prevents the use of any of the better HD tensioners like the ECS Roots style tensioner. I'm going to get this belt squeal, slip and jump **** sorted, one way or the other. Watch that space...
Can't wait to see you find a tensioner system that works.. hopefully the ECS roots one ends up working once you move some stuff out of the way. If it's the same strength as the one on mine, that thing is STRONG. But you already know that since the first idea of mine using their centri tensioner setup didn't work out so well
By the time you get this figured out you're going to have one of those big *** new Novi V15 head units on the way to replace it all
Can't wait to see you find a tensioner system that works.. hopefully the ECS roots one ends up working once you move some stuff out of the way. If it's the same strength as the one on mine, that thing is STRONG. But you already know that since the first idea of mine using their centri tensioner setup didn't work out so well
By the time you get this figured out you're going to have one of those big *** new Novi V15 head units on the way to replace it all
Or just slap a pro charger on it
Lol. You’re probably right about that. But I think if I do go the centrifugal route, I would build a decent forged short block for it first. But then again, I dunno how much more power my poor trans will take before giving up the ghost anyhow,
In the meanwhile, I’m going to do what I can to get the belt to stop slipping and see what I can get out of this thing. The fact that I was able to run a 6.3 the other day with the belt half off (I’m assuming, since it was sliced in the middle), and the data log showing no more than 8.5 psi for the rest of the run after it shifted into second, tells me that it has potential. That was the first time that it hooked that good though, ever, so that helped.
BTW: I’m pretty sure that I can actually use the ECS HD centri tensioner too, with the new water pump and the early style tensioner/idler bracket. So don’t write off that idea of yours just yet...
At least if I figure this **** out, I can share the combo that works, so no one else has to go through the guesswork and aggravation that I’ve been through.
Got the pulley cut down so that it could fit the Edelbrock water pump. I had the machine shop shave 5/8” off the back of it and it’s still looks wide enough to hold a 20rib belt, lol.
I have the new tensioner/idler bracket on the way from Magnuson, finally, but it’s shipping via UPS International Expedited, which despite its name is even slower than Magnuson.The predicted delivery date is next Monday. Apparently, they’re shipping it by rowboat or something...
It looks like I’ll also need to cut off the bosses circled in red to get the pre-2009 tensioner/idler bracket to bolt on to it. I may just take it to the machine shop while I’m waiting and have them cut them all off. The other two threaded bosses are the ones that you have to cut off the stock pump to get the ECS HD tensioner to work. I can’t figure out what these bosses are for, unless they use those for something on other vehicles which use the corvette pulley spacing, like the G8, I think.
Had another weekend full of fun, ****** around with pulleys, tensioners, belts, etc., but I think I may have this sumbitch licked now (knock on wood).
Firstly, I got all the bosses cut off the water pump, including the lower ones, just in case I needed to revert to the ECS HD tensioner. Good thing too (more on that in a bit). I picked up the new pre-2009 water pump idler/tensioner bracket and the Magnuson HD LS3 tensioner. This thing is stout and is every bit as stiff as the ECS tensioner. Unfortunately, it cannot work on the Heartbeat setup without reconfiguring the HX coolant pipes, since they run right into the back of it, and there’s not enough space to even use an elbow to clear it. In fact, it couldn’t even bolt up to either idler bracket, without me taking it to the machine shop to have the tensioner bracket clearanced. I’m sooo pissed off at Magnuson right now. I can’t for the life of me figure out why they would make such a stout tensioner for an LS3 Vette application and not make a bracket that would allow you to use it on the goddamned Heartbeat. I can guarantee you that if our kits came with this tensioner, belt slip would have never been an issue. As it stands, I’ve just wasted more money on this frickin setup. But there’s some good news at the end, so read on...
Here’s all the new parts:
To show you what I mean about the tensioner being stout, here’s the Maggie HD tensioner set alongside the ECS HD:
So, first I tried to make it work with the Magnuson tensioner bolted on the new bracket. It sits so friggin high, I’m not even sure that the hood would’ve closed, IF it could’ve worked. Here it is on the new Edelbrock water pump:
So, after trying too many things to recount on here, I abandoned the idea of using the new Magnuson HD tensioner.
But, then I realized that because the new idler/bracket assembly is flatter (doesn’t have raised bolt boss) than the 2009-up model bracket, the interference I was getting with the ECS HD tensioner (the belt was hitting the raised bolt-boss on the idler bracket) wasn’t a problem anymore, so I decided to give the. ECS another try, as long as I could get a tensioner up top that didn’t flex like the ICT one did with the S/S bolts. So, I tried the Comp manual tensioner, but that also collided with the H/X hoses (really dumbass design on positioning those hoses too Magnuson!)
Below is a picture showing the difference between the pre- and post- 2009 idler brackets. As you can see, they’re very different, and puts the idler in a completely different position. According to Magnuson’s install manual, the pre-2009 bracket uses a 2” longer belt. I think I confirmed that tonight myself. The other problem is that the pre-2009 model also pushes the tensioner higher up, which makes the problem with the tensioner hitting the H/X hoses worse. At this point, I’m ready to burn the car down, so I took a break and went and did some chores around the house for the wife....
So, back in the garage, after running out of options, I did the thing my old man always advised: “If you want something fixed properly, do it yourself!”
So, after bolting back on the ECS HD tensioner, and figuring out what I needed to do to make a manual tensioner work properly up top, I took the sazall and chopped the arm off on the ICT manual tensioner, drilled out one hole and tapped another, and made it into a “shorty” tensioner, thus:
So, that’s what’s on the car now, as per picture below. I tried putting a 100 5/8” Gates belt on it and it looks like it’s about 1 1/2” too short, so I just ordered a 102” green belt from Rockauto. If this sumbitch don’t work now, without any squealing or belt slip, I’m scrapping this whole blower and going centri. And if it works and doesn’t run a 6.2, I’m just gonna spray the bitch.
And, most of all, if this ECS tensioner turns out to be the magic bullet, Carson would’ve redeemed himself and I’ll owe him, big time.
02-25-2019, 11:15 AM
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), so you don’t need to buy those fittings separate.
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