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I’m wondering big time if I’m going to have all the belt issues you’ve had once I go 10% and 81mm pulley. Since mines an 08 with the different water pump and different belt route
I’m wondering big time if I’m going to have all the belt issues you’ve had once I go 10% and 81mm pulley. Since mines an 08 with the different water pump and different belt route
Was wondering the same thing? Mine is a 2008 factory build, and I ordered a 160 thermostat from lingenfelter and installed it three years ago and it leaked a small drip and called my tuner and said they meaning GM that they used 2009 therostats in production towards the end of the 2008 production. The platform that the stat sat in was not the same as in the earlier pumps. I asked Lingenfelter don't you think that is something that should be told in your product description. Which lends itself to Sammy"s finding's what else was changed?
I’m wondering big time if I’m going to have all the belt issues you’ve had once I go 10% and 81mm pulley. Since mines an 08 with the different water pump and different belt route
I would bet a good deal of money that it will slip at least a bit with the Magnuson 81mm/10% OD balancer. The primary problem with these blowers is that the tensioner is very weak and when you’re dealing with a belt that long, then the belt stretches quite a bit and that little short tensioner just doesn’t have the range to take up the slack. Best bet is to get a 6-rib RPM belt and hope for the best. Based on a couple of under-hood videos that I made, the RPM belt hardly stretches at all, whilst the standard Napa/Gates stretches like a rubber band.
BTW: From my experience, the 10%IW balancer/3.2” (~81mm) pulley combo calls for the same length belt as the stock balancer and 96mm standard issue Magnuson pulley. On the 2009-up setup, that is a 98” belt. Magnuson’s install manual states that the early model setup requires a 100” belt. So, assuming that your balancer is the same exact diameter of mine, you should be able to use the stock length belt.
But, the advantage of the pre-2009 water pump is that the ECS HD tensioner can work on that without having to cut anything (I think?), so, if you do have belt slip issues, then you can get (or crate, like I did) a fixed tensioner (that will be the challenge) for up top and bolt on the ECS.
Just bear with me over the next few weeks until I can get to test this thing and we should know more then. Or, if Magnuson really has a conscience, they could just fab us a tensioner/bracket that actually works. I doubt that will happen though.
BTW: What chafes me even more is that they’re still engaging in false advertising about the availability of upgraded throttle body inlets for larger throttle bodies. Below is a screenshot that I took the other day from the listing on their site for the C6/LS3 Heartbeat blower. Note the red arrow. I love how they also claim to have “drive pulley options for high boost applications”. This is one of the reasons that I bought this system, because they promised that it was “upgradeable”. Somebody ought to sue them for not living up to their promises.
Was wondering the same thing? Mine is a 2008 factory build, and I ordered a 160 thermostat from lingenfelter and installed it three years ago and it leaked a small drip and called my tuner and said they meaning GM that they used 2009 therostats in production towards the end of the 2008 production. The platform that the stat sat in was not the same as in the earlier pumps. I asked Lingenfelter don't you think that is something that should be told in your product description. Which lends itself to Sammy"s finding's what else was changed?
I don’t know about the thermostat thing, Scotty. Thats the first time I’m hearing that. They do have a tab that needs to be properly placed in a slot on the housing, but that’s it, as far as I know. I just swapped my old 160* thermostat (SLP, I think) and the stock gooseneck onto the new water pump. Hopefully it doesn’t leak...
Let's hope the ECS tensioner works out after all that!
Yep, for real. This has been quite an ordeal, which is why I wanted to share the experience with anyone else who may venture down into this rabbit hole...
It should work with this setup though. The major problem before - which I didn't realize until after I pulled the ECS tensioner off the second time - was that when the tensioner would close at high rpm, as the belt stretched, the face of belt would hit the bolt boss on the 2009-up Magnuson idler tensioner bracket, and that would throw the belt. There was also the initial problem with it, which was that the countersunk stainless steel bolts in ICT Billet tensioner (which is otherwise a tough little SOB, judging by how hard it was to cut) would stretch and allow the tensioner to lean forward, which would help dump the belt off the pulley. I've fixed that now by flipping the bracket so that I could use shouldered grade 10.9 10mm bolts to mount it, and then by shortening the arm to get it to fit better, that will decrease the leverage on it anyhow. We'll soon see whether it works.
@ Mark and Scotty: Please note that another one of the differences between the Magnuson Heartbeat idler brackets is that the pre-2009 bracket does not provide for as much belt wrap around the blower pulley as does the one for the later model water pump. This is something that had me a little worried initially, to be honest, but if the ECS tensioner can do its job, I doubt that the belt will slip on mine.
Here are the two belt-routing diagrams for the two different styles of WP and idler bracket. They’re not terribly accurate, but give you an idea of the difference in belt wrap:
IMO and experience the gates green belts are the worst when it comes to slip. The glaze quickly and slip the easiest. They are made for long term long haul truck use, not high load use. The basic black work better, just you replace them every 60k instead of 100k. The RPM by far work the best.
IMO and experience the gates green belts are the worst when it comes to slip. The glaze quickly and slip the easiest. They are made for long term long haul truck use, not high load use. The basic black work better, just you replace them every 60k instead of 100k. The RPM by far work the best.
Thanks Unreal. That is very helpful advice. I’m hoping that I can find an RPM belt that will work, but they have a very limited selection of 8-rib belts that are longer than 98”, although they have a decent selection of 6-rib belts. I just found a brand new 101 5/8” 6-rib RPM this morning in my stockpile of 6 rib belts. I’m going to try fitting that on it this evening. The hardest part is getting those suckers on, because they are so stiff. They must soak them in viagra or something!
Thanks Sammy. I’m almost wondering the the less belt wrap in the 08 will have less issues? I know it doesn’t make sense, but I guess we will find out in about 2 months!
finally got above freezing this weekend here and the sun came out. What the hell is that shiny object in the sky??!!
Thanks Sammy. I’m almost wondering the the less belt wrap in the 08 will have less issues? I know it doesn’t make sense, but I guess we will find out in about 2 months!
finally got above freezing this weekend here and the sun came out. What the hell is that shiny object in the sky??!!
IDK. That doesn’t compute though. I think either style would work fine if we had a decent tensioner, because using the stock one is a frickin bad joke. I mean, I can use the palm of my left hand, resting on the pulley, and push that down into a fully closed position. That’s how weak it is.
Man, I don’t know what I would do if we had no sunshine for more than a couple of days. Mostly likely I would find more **** to unnecessarily mess around with on my car though...
Entrance to my house has a 12V powered electric gate with a solar panel to keep it charged. It worked just great for two years until it died last week. No sun to charge it. Had to take my diesel pickup out there and let it idle connected to the 12V truck battery that powers the gate. It's fairly warm here, but this no sunshine crap is really getting old.
Entrance to my house has a 12V powered electric gate with a solar panel to keep it charged. It worked just great for two years until it died last week. No sun to charge it. Had to take my diesel pickup out there and let it idle connected to the 12V truck battery that powers the gate. It's fairly warm here, but this no sunshine crap is really getting old.
Hope you got it right this time Sammy!
Lol. Thanks old buddy. If it doesn’t work, Imma pull this stinkin blower off and ship it over to you so you can stick it on top of that new narrow body project you got there...
Tried the 101 5/8” 6-rib RPM belt this evening and it fits like a glove with lots of clearance around everything. Looks like the ECS tensioner will work this time. I figure the 102” will be fine too, at only 3/8” longer. If not, I have a little adjustment on the ICT tensioner, with now works in reverse for tightening the belt (pushing it towards the center of the car slightly tightens the belt), as a result of me flipping the bracket around.
In light of what Unreal said about the green belts, I’m also going to order another 102” 8-rib Dayco belt as a spare/replacement for the green belt.
We have another track event coming up at the end of this month. Can’t wait to see what it does with this setup.
Is there enough travel left on that tensioner? I guess one cool thing about ECS’s centri setup is the “manual” tensioner that you can use to tighten the belt until the tensioner is maxed out, so you still have full travel left
Is there enough travel left on that tensioner? I guess one cool thing about ECS’s centri setup is the “manual” tensioner that you can use to tighten the belt until the tensioner is maxed out, so you still have full travel left
Really hoping this tensioner works out this time!
It’s basically in the one o’clock position that ECS recommends, so I’m hoping that it has enough range with the 102” 8 rib. Man, that is one stiff tensioner! Unfortunately, there’s limited options for 8-rib belts, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed.
Isn't there room for that green idler to be bigger? Wouldn't that increase belt wrap on the blower pulley?
Thanks for the consideration on the HBeat. If I added a blower, it would be that one. Current build is staying n/a though. Didn't even pin the crank during the heads/cam swap. Only need to add the ZR1 mufflers, swap out to the shorter pushrods, and it will be DONE. It drives real nice for 500 at the wheels n/a.
Isn't there room for that green idler to be bigger? Wouldn't that increase belt wrap on the blower pulley?
Thanks for the consideration on the HBeat. If I added a blower, it would be that one. Current build is staying n/a though. Didn't even pin the crank during the heads/cam swap. Only need to add the ZR1 mufflers, swap out to the shorter pushrods, and it will be DONE. It drives real nice for 500 at the wheels n/a.
Agree on the idler. Cant tell the size from a pic. On my eforce I switched that to a 90 mm and it increased belt wrap considerably. Looks like you have a lot more room there too.
03-11-2019, 09:04 AM
This is one of the reasons that I bought this system, because they promised that it was “upgradeable”. Somebody ought to sue them for not living up to their promises.
