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You can see where I did my drain line. It is exposed and just reach under, turn it and done. Simpler than draining it in the engine bay or removing can.
That’s very nicely done. I might move mine to thiat location too, to allow me to use the space it currently occupies to relocate the power steering reservoir.
Sammy - yep it’s the same halltech filter. I bought this used and the filter is trashed so I’ll buy a new one for sure. Thanks for the heads up on the adapter.
I’ve changed course on belt tensioners again, since I never heard back from ECS and can’t sit around waiting for them to get back to me. So much for me bragging about their customer service.
I’ve found a way to get the HD Magnuson tensioner to work (at least I hope it does) by relocating the PS reservoir and rerouting the HX hoses. It did require me to shorten one of the old HX coolant manifolds I had from the original lid, by cutting and welding it. I haven’t gotten that back from the machine shop as yet, so I hope that turns out decent and bolts up without any issues. Please note that it may be that the only how I’m able to do this is because I have the Camaro lid.
Meanwhile, I bolted the put a couple of different belts on it last night and it looks like the best belt would be a 100”, which means I would be able to use a RPM belt.
This tensioner has so much range that even a 102” could work on it. Sumbitch has some torque to it too. The ratchet slipped off it last night and that sucker flung the ratchet straight at my head! Luckily I was able to hang on to it, or I might be wiring this from a hospital bed.
There’s one issue that has me a little bit worried, which is that, like with the ECS tensioner, when the tensioner extends, the belt comes very close (like 1mm) to itself, simply because the idler on the Magnuson bracket is located a bit too far outboard.
I’m gonna take the approach Unreal suggested with the pulley and hope that if it touches, it will clearance itself.
However, I’m sure that if I put a 100” RPM belt on it, that will position the belt where it won’t touch, and since the RPMs don’t stretch, it should never be an issue.
Once I get everything bolted up, I’ll post some pictures.
Dang brother! You're more energetic than I was even in my 20's!
That's a LOT of work Sammy! I'm optimistic you'll eliminate any slip that can be gotten rid of...
(I'm going to continue ordering parts for my cam/heads/flex fuel mods. Then I'll have no choice but to utilize the parts..)
Originally Posted by CI GS
I’ve changed course on belt tensioners again, since I never heard back from ECS and can’t sit around waiting for them to get back to me. So much for me bragging about their customer service.
I’ve found a way to get the HD Magnuson tensioner to work (at least I hope it does) by relocating the PS reservoir and rerouting the HX hoses. It did require me to shorten one of the old HX coolant manifolds I had from the original lid, by cutting and welding it. I haven’t gotten that back from the machine shop as yet, so I hope that turns out decent and bolts up without any issues. Please note that it may be that the only how I’m able to do this is because I have the Camaro lid.
Meanwhile, I bolted the put a couple of different belts on it last night and it looks like the best belt would be a 100”, which means I would be able to use a RPM belt.
This tensioner has so much range that even a 102” could work on it. Sumbitch has some torque to it too. The ratchet slipped off it last night and that sucker flung the ratchet straight at my head! Luckily I was able to hang on to it, or I might be wiring this from a hospital bed.
There’s one issue that has me a little bit worried, which is that, like with the ECS tensioner, when the tensioner extends, the belt comes very close (like 1mm) to itself, simply because the idler on the Magnuson bracket is located a bit too far outboard.
I’m gonna take the approach Unreal suggested with the pulley and hope that if it touches, it will clearance itself.
However, I’m sure that if I put a 100” RPM belt on it, that will position the belt where it won’t touch, and since the RPMs don’t stretch, it should never be an issue.
Once I get everything bolted up, I’ll post some pictures.
Dang brother! You're more energetic than I was even in my 20's!
That's a LOT of work Sammy! I'm optimistic you'll eliminate any slip that can be gotten rid of...
(I'm going to continue ordering parts for my cam/heads/flex fuel mods. Then I'll have no choice but to utilize the parts..)
Thanks Mitch, but I actually feel like twice my age today!
It’s really not hard work per se, just tedious and very aggravating. I swear, the worse invention ever is the friggin spring clamp.
I have the HX hoses sorted, even though the welded manifold didn’t work out. I tried installing that last night and realized that the machine shop didn’t shorten it enough and the nipple ended up in a position that put stress on the fuel rail connector hose (the little connector hose on the front RH corner), so I abandoned that. I just used a 90* quick connector on the HX to tank return and made up a hose that weaves around a couple of obstacles. I’ll take some pictures later.
I also removed the heater hoses (because who the hell needs a heater in the Caribbean?) and reconfigured the hose from the coolant reservoir to connect that to the water pump. That freed up a bit of room for the HX and power steering hoses in the front RH corner of the engine compartment, which was a veritable mess of hoses coming from all different directions. I might also cut off those stupid transmission cooler hard lines next to the crankcase and use hose to reroute them out of the way. I’m going to do anything I can to gain some room around the fun of the engine.
I just need to refill the engine and HX reservoir with coolant (actually distilled water and water wetter) and make up an extension bracket to move the PS reservoir outboard to clear the new tensioner. Should be able to get it finished today.
Finished everything today, stuck a 101 5/8” belt on it and cranked it up and idled it a bit so I could top up the coolant.
Here’s what it looks like.
Now, can someone tell me why Magnuson couldn’t have done this themselves with the Heartbeat kit, so that we could all have had a decent tensioner from the get go? I mean they already have the frickin tensioner available!
All they would need to do is create a bracket for the power steering reservoir that moves it out a bit and then reconfigure the HX manifold outlet to clear the tensioner. And maybe on the pre 2009 kits move the idler just a couple of millimeters towards the center of the engine.
Dam that's a nice looking tensioner! And agree that it should have been included originally.. Stop buying this stuff! My wallet hates you and I already!
I do have to say, I do NOT like the can lines and your nitrous lines that close to the belt. That belt comes flings off, I'm not sure what will happen at 6,500RPMs and above!
Dam that's a nice looking tensioner! And agree that it should have been included originally.. Stop buying this stuff! My wallet hates you and I already!
I do have to say, I do NOT like the can lines and your nitrous lines that close to the belt. That belt comes flings off, I'm not sure what will happen at 6,500RPMs and above!
Yeah, it does look a lot nicer on the car than it did bolted up on the water pump when it was sitting on my workbench. With a few minor tweaks, Magnuson could have easily made this thing work on all the Hbeat C6 kits.
Although it is hard to see from that picture, there at least 1.5” of space between the catch can vacuum hose and the tensioner, and it’s impossible for the tensioner to hit the line or the nipple when it’s fully open. If you look closely, you’ll see that I’ve rotated the can slightly so that the nipple is out of the way and I’ve cable-tied the vacuum hose onto the bypass vacuum hose to keep it away from the tensioner. I spent a lot of time going over all those little things to make sure that I’ve not invented another problem for myself. I suppose if the belt were to come off and swing upwards, it could knock the vacuum hose off the can.
IMV, there’s all sorts of **** that’s too close to the belt, like the power steering hoses, which I’ve rerouted out of the way. In the past, with the stock tensioner, I’ve had the belt cut into the power steering hose, the steam hose that tees into the relief hose to the coolant reservoir (I’ve also relocated that tee as well) and one of the HX hoses, all on my original standard Magnuson setup.
Also, on both occasions that the belt came off recently, since I’ve had the MM can on it, all that happened was that the belt was pulled down by the balancer, so the power steering hoses are more at risk.
BUT, I’m hoping that belt dumping is a thing of the past. The only thing that worries me is that as the tensioner swings through its arc as the belt stretches with rpm, the two faces of the belt come very close together where it’s draped over the idler on the Magnuson bracket. That can easily be fixed by Magnuson moving the idler inboard by about 2-5mm. A shorter belt helps keep that from happening. That’s why I’ve ordered a 100” RPM belt from Napa (for a small fortune) which I hope to get later this week, in time for our next track event this coming weekend.
If this works, then all the work would have been almost worth it. I’ve left the ECS bracket on it, just in case. But to be honest, I much prefer this setup, since it’s much easier to install the belt than with this than with the setup I had with the ECS tensioner.
Looking good! Finally, you might have found the answer...
Thanks bud. I’m really hoping so. We should know soon enough.
I forgot to add that another advantage to using this system is that it can accommodate a 100” belt, which means that I can use an RPM 8-rib belt, which actually exists, as opposed to the ECS tensioner setup, which requires a 101” belt and there’s no 101” RPM belt in 8-rib.
...The only thing that worries me is that as the tensioner swings through its arc as the belt stretches with rpm, the two faces of the belt come very close together where it’s draped over the idler on the Magnuson bracket.
I'm one sick pup - I freak'n had a dream about that! I envisioned you put a small piece of acrylic in there to protect the belt ID's...
Hahaha! I’ve already come up with an alternate plan if there’s any belt interference, which is to switch out the 2.7” IW tensioner pulley for their slightly larger 3” pulley. That should move the belt far enough away from the idler that the belt doesn’t “touch itself” (hope that doesn’t conjure up another dream Mitch!).
And because what I really need is to buy yet another pulley...
Hahaha! I’ve already come up with an alternate plan if there’s any belt interference, which is to switch out the 2.7” IW tensioner pulley for their slightly larger 3” pulley. That should move the belt far enough away from the idler that the belt doesn’t “touch itself” (hope that doesn’t conjure up another dream Mitch!).
And because what I really need is to buy yet another pulley...
There was an image posted recently of some blower pulley set up, where two idler pulleys (not a HB though), were extremely well engineered and very robust, and positioned (stationary) perfectly for max belt wrap. It looked almost like a dual idler cam gear set up, except that it was a blower belt set up.
Now THAT has stuck in my head (no dreams yet, Rodney). If I ever come across a bud that has a CNC machine, I'd like to try and make an idler set up such as that...
I'll try to locate that pic, it was talked about here...
(Thoughts on this latest cam I had Pat G spec, based on e85, ported heads, headers, etc.? I like it's specs, and am 90% going to use it; [229/246 .629”/.615” 116 LSA +4])
There was an image posted recently of some blower pulley set up, where two idler pulleys (not a HB though), were extremely well engineered and very robust, and positioned (stationary) perfectly for max belt wrap. It looked almost like a dual idler cam gear set up, except that it was a blower belt set up.
Now THAT has stuck in my head (no dreams yet, Rodney). If I ever come across a bud that has a CNC machine, I'd like to try and make an idler set up such as that...
I'll try to locate that pic, it was talked about here...
(Thoughts on this latest cam I had Pat G spec, based on e85, ported heads, headers, etc.? I like it's specs, and am 90% going to use it; [[b]229/246 .629”/.615” 116 LSA +4])
Yeah, I’ve seen that dual idler setup, on either the Kenne Bell or Whipple, I think. The later model (2009-up) Heartbeat kit does have good belt wrap as is, though. They just have shitty, feeble little stock tensioner.
That’s a pretty healthy cam. At this stage, I wish I had opted for a bigger cam myself (yes, Rodney, I know you told me so!). That one seems to have a big duration split (+17*) for ported LS3 heads though, because they really pick up a lot of flow on the exhaust port, with relatively marginal gains on on the intake port, so they don’t typically need that extra exhaust duration that stock rectangular port heads need. It will have a choppy idle now for sure. But Pat G knows what he’s doing, I’m sure. When you’re done, it should make good power.
03-20-2019, 03:23 PM
You caught me there. Looks like you have lots of room right now for sure!
