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I recently worked with Bret to get a charging issue worked out and now have one of the newer 250amp units, also in black. Bret spent his personal time on the phone with me after hours and texts all the time to get me straight. He's a stand up dude and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend him if you need, literally, some power...
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16'-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-
'23-'24
I haven't had the chance to drive my 2002 much (I drive my 528 rwhp 1999 daily) but when I do I have a solid 14.2 - 14.4 volts on the DIC, all in part to your 250 amp polished alternator. Big thanks! PS It turned out that my 99's alternator was good, it was the wiring that went bad. So glad I read this thread. I ended up replacing the starter too.
Thanks for the feedback!
I'm glad you're happy with it!
I've been very pleased with the performance of the 250amp. The 240 wasn't putting out enough at idle, where we need it most where the 250 is putting out just under 200amps.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance; 09-05-2019 at 10:45 AM.
Check all your connections, but I’ve had that happen twice with my Mechman. Sent it back to Mechman and it was repaired under warranty for free and sent back to me within 2 weeks.
To fill in everyone else, we ended up performing some tests and there are some significant voltage drops that we discovered, which can cause issues with the overall performance of the electrical system as well as lead to failures. We decided to install a bypass cable to begin with.
Originally Posted by XFIRED
Bret,
I sent you PM. The voltage drops to 11 volts hot / idle. After cool down we're at 13.8. can you help me??
I have a 2 or 0 guage (cant remember) cable from Bret that goes from the Alternator to the battery post. I also have the Mecham alternator. I see 14.1 plus at idle now. It was 13.4 or less ith the stocker and the cable from Bret.
To fill in everyone else, we ended up performing some tests and there are some significant voltage drops that we discovered, which can cause issues with the overall performance of the electrical system as well as lead to failures. We decided to install a bypass cable to begin with.
As suggested by Bret I followed the voltage drop test and found a 0.4 volt drop between alternator output and battery post. I ordered the cable from Bret and installed it leaving the factory alternator cable in place.
After the cable installation I'm seeing a 0.01 drop between alternator and battery. Alternator output will vary by as much as 1 volt at idle from 13.6 to 14.6 volts and no messages. If I hold the throttle at about 1200 RPMs it appears to be stable at about 14.2 volts.
I hope to drive the car tomorrow and see what happens.
Check all your connections, but I’ve had that happen twice with my Mechman. Sent it back to Mechman and it was repaired under warranty for free and sent back to me within 2 weeks.
I think that may be the way I need to go. Bret has been more than helpful!
As suggested by Bret I followed the voltage drop test and found a 0.4 volt drop between alternator output and battery post. I ordered the cable from Bret and installed it leaving the factory alternator cable in place.
After the cable installation I'm seeing a 0.01 drop between alternator and battery. Alternator output will vary by as much as 1 volt at idle from 13.6 to 14.6 volts and no messages. If I hold the throttle at about 1200 RPMs it appears to be stable at about 14.2 volts.
I hope to drive the car tomorrow and see what happens.
With Bret's assistance I checked the "L" terminal of the Mechman alternator which was a solid 4.9 volts. The output of the alternator was all over the place 13.6 to 14.6 regardless of load.
I have re-installed the factory Valeo which has a constant 14.4 volts and *very* happy with the performance.
Okay, now you are probably wondering why did I replace the alternator in the first place if it was fully functional??? The Mechman looked better than the factory Valeo alternator.
I feel confident that Bret will help me resolve my alternator issues.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16'-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-
'23-'24
I replaced my perfectly fine alternator because I needed a higher amperage one for my 2000 watt rms stereo. No problems with my new alternator but I had already installed a "bypass cable", 0-gauge between the alternator and battery. I also ran 0-gauge to the stereo and upgraded the grounds to 0-gauge.
I see 14.4 volts on the DIC at idle but when I crank up the stereo, I can get it to drop to the high 13s which is totally acceptable.
I replaced my perfectly fine alternator because I needed a higher amperage one for my 2000 watt rms stereo. No problems with my new alternator but I had already installed a "bypass cable", 0-gauge between the alternator and battery. I also ran 0-gauge to the stereo and upgraded the grounds to 0-gauge.
I see 14.4 volts on the DIC at idle but when I crank up the stereo, I can get it to drop to the high 13s which is totally acceptable.
I am looking to purchase an alternator for a 08 corvette. I keep have this issue where at idle drops to 11.7 volts. I want it to continue to charge at normal range of 14v. At idle and driving. I have some aftermarket acc. In the vehicle like amp and subs. I also have a built engine with a cam. Do you feel that it will be fine to run the 240 amp alternator with stock wiring? Thank you in advance for answering questions. Let me know the information that you need in order to purchase.
Billet 170's, 250's (not to be confused with 250's) and cast 250's continue to be a great option.
The 250amp models put out just under 200 amps at idle which is what we all could use.
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I am looking to purchase an alternator for a 08 corvette. I keep have this issue where at idle drops to 11.7 volts. I want it to continue to charge at normal range of 14v. At idle and driving. I have some aftermarket acc. In the vehicle like amp and subs. I also have a built engine with a cam. Do you feel that it will be fine to run the 240 amp alternator with stock wiring? Thank you in advance for answering questions. Let me know the information that you need in order to purchase.
Thanks, Jeremy
This is a typical issue. I do not stock the 240amp models. I stock a 250 amp that is made by Mechman but it's my exclusive product since I helped with its development. I offer them in billet and cast.. While the 240's typically generate high 130's at idle, the 250's typically generate right at 200 amps. It makes a huge difference in idle voltages as a result.
This is a typical issue. I do not stock the 240amp models. I stock a 250 amp that is made by Mechman but it's my exclusive product since I helped with its development. I offer them in billet and cast.. While the 240's typically generate high 130's at idle, the 250's typically generate right at 200 amps. It makes a huge difference in idle voltages as a result.
I sent you an email. Let me know if I can help.
Thanks Bret for this new 250 unit
before i had the 170 amp Mechman but while idle with coolant fans at high speed the voltage was dropping to 12.7 now its steady 14.3 all the time
I recommend it to every one
This is a typical issue. I do not stock the 240amp models. I stock a 250 amp that is made by Mechman but it's my exclusive product since I helped with its development. I offer them in billet and cast.. While the 240's typically generate high 130's at idle, the 250's typically generate right at 200 amps. It makes a huge difference in idle voltages as a result.
I sent you an email. Let me know if I can help.
Also, VERY interested in your 250a alternator and bypass line to wire directly to fuse box for my 06 Z06. Do you offer a bypass line with an inline fuse?
Also, VERY interested in your 250a alternator and bypass line to wire directly to fuse box for my 06 Z06. Do you offer a bypass line with an inline fuse?
No need for an inline fuse and they add 4 points of failure. It would be difficult to short the cable, based on the way it's run. It's not going to chafe easily and it won't burn easily, even with a torch on it.
07-14-2019, 07:26 PM
