Arctic Vette

Sell the NPP anyways looking forward to the build!

Xtremespeed

Now I'm having an issue with the fuel pump check valve on the ECS Stage 1 fuel system. It seems to bottom out on the pump before tightening down on the sealing washer.

Arctic Vette

Hope ECS can chime in im sure its an easy fix.

schpenxel

Hm you're right.. doesn't look like that'd be how it goes. Hopefully they chime in. Or call Chris on Monday. He's always answered when I've called, and he's always been nice to me. Even when I ask stupid stuff, lol.

realcanuk

When I got that kit the fittings were on the pump and look different. Make sure you have the right one at the right end.

Xtremespeed

It's the same fitting as yours. It's under the -6 fitting on the outlet in that pic. Mine just looks like it's about .020" too long. Mine was also preassembled, but not tightened.

I talked to Matt about it and he said he hasn't run into that problem before. Was gonna put his hands on one tomorrow and look.

realcanuk

Ahh. yes.. I see now it is a separate fitting. Very strange that it could be too long. Let us know what you find out.

Xtremespeed

You mean the Magnaflow? I'm hoping mine will be about where yours is. By the time I get all the parts and get everything back together it's going to be hot though. We've had heat index close to 110 already. I really didn't want to tune this thing in August, but I never expected to wait this long for parts. The cam and springs have been done for a couple weeks already. Don't know if ECS is just swamped with orders or having issues getting parts.

Arctic Vette

They are likely SWAMPED!! Lol

Xtremespeed

ECS is supposed to send me another pump with the fitting already tight so there will be no question. I will take the fitting out and measure it and the available depth in the pump before I install it to see the difference. I'm all but positive the fitting or pump one is out of spec. I believe if I crank the fitting down on the one I have it will ruin the pump. We shall see.

Mike Farris

Saw the same thing installing the kit last week. Mine snugged up and appears to have sealed but I've only put like 5 miles on the car since.

schpenxel

I tend to agree... doesn't make sense for it to bottom out before getting to the washer. Let us know which one ends up being the problem.

Xtremespeed

I received the new fuel pump today with the fittings already tightened. There are 4 legs at the bottom of the threads in the outlet of the pump. It looks like they are some kind of internal support, but without taking the pump apart it's not really possible to tell exactly what purpose they serve. I have to return the pump so I won't go that far. The new check valve fitting is exactly the same length as the one I already have and the washer is also the same. The fitting bottoms out on the 4 legs. You can see 3 of them in the included picture. On the new pump, the tech at ECS just tightened the fitting until it created a groove in the top of the 4 legs. I guess that's just normal and I could have done the same but the 4 legs don't look all that robust and I was afraid I would damage the pump in the process. Better safe than sorry.

The rest of the parts came today, so I can start getting everything back together this weekend.

Xtremespeed

Spent the whole day working on the car. Mounted the Stage 1 fuel pump, pinned the IW balancer, reinstalled the steering rack, mounted the tensioner bracket and a/c tensioner, and installed the flip kit with the cogged accessory drive.

A few things they don't tell you that might help others, and some annoyances.

1. There are zero instructions for running the wire harness and mounting the fuse and relay for the stage 1 fuel system. Not a big deal, but some pics and suggestions would make it easier. I saved it for later. I also wish ECS would provided a 120 degree fitting for the pump outlet instead of the 180. It makes the fuel line rub against the end of the pump.

2. When pinning the IW balancer from the front like a factory balancer, the hub doesn't sit flush with the crank snout, so you have to drill a lot farther past the drill guide than normal, and the pin provided in the ECS kit is not long enough. If you install the provided pin, there is enough room between the crank and the balancer bolt and washer that it could slide out. I went to Fastenal and bought a 1 1/2" long 1/4" steel pin. They are $0.39. You also must take your time and be careful drilling. Since the first inch or so you are just drilling the balancer, the drill bit has a tendancy to go at an angle.

3. If you are installing the flip kit, I highly recommend you mock up the included power steering line they provide before you attempt to install the power steering pump. I fought with mine for hours, and finally came to the conclusion that whoever built the high pressure hose didn't clock the fittings correctly and there is no way to install it. No matter how you route the hose it will not line up correctly to connect to the rack.

That's all for today.

schpenxel

Doesn't surprise me on the ECS instructions.

How did you seat the balancer on the crank prior to pinning? I know mine didn't quite sit flush either (cheapo aftermarket one), but it was pretty close. There is a factory tolerance for how much of a gap should be left, but I can't remember it offhand.

Xtremespeed

I have an installer I bought years ago. It's just a matter of the Innovators West balancer hub sticking way out past the crank snout. It seated all the way, it's just a lot different from factory.

Xtremespeed

4. If you have an overdrive balancer, make sure you have the correct tensioner bracket in your ECS kit. I received a second one from ECS yesterday, that looked just like the one I already had. Sent them an email and was told it holds the large blower tensioner in a slightly different position to keep the tension off the balancer. I wish I had known they were sending another one as I had already installed the one that was in my kit. The new one has OD stamped on it and for some reason was not anodized to match my black kit.

5. The next step after reinstalling the steering rack is to move the transmission lines. In my opinion it is much easier to do before you reinstall the rack and this step should be moved back in the instructions to before installing the a/c tensioner.

Back to work.

schpenxel

4 is a good point--if you have the larger balancer/smaller tensioner and the belt snaps, you risk the tensioner smacking into the balancer. I saw that happen on one person here and it took a chip off the balancer.

Xtremespeed

That would suck for sure, especially considering the price of these balancers.

Xtremespeed

6. I didn't see it mentioned anywhere, but when relocating the radiator and a/c condenser, the condenser lines don't want to reach. It helps to have a cheap tubing bender to reshape the bottom line slightly. I also moved the service port ahead of the clamp on the passenger fender instead of behind it, which gave a little extra line to work with.

7. On a model with the Z51 option, there are transmission lines on the passenger side of the radiator and oil lines on the driver side. The small clips that hold the lines on are different sizes. The ones on the oil lines are bigger. I didn't notice when I removed them and couldn't figure out why the plastic disc that covers them wouldn't fit over the clip on the transmission lines. I had a larger one on one of the transmission lines. Not a big deal, just be aware there are 2 sizes.

Some friends and I put on a pretty big fireworks show every year so I won't get to work on the car today.

Happy 4th to everyone.

My next step is installing the blower bracket, so I'm getting close. Injectors and fuel pump are already done. I just need to wire the pump after I finish the blower install. Then it will be on to the Alky kit.