wideband only or dashlogic
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
wideband only or dashlogic
Need to set up some type of monitoring for my setup. really want a sleeper/simple setup, but needs to monitor the important stuff. Which is the better option?
#2
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St. Jude Donor '15
Dash logic is wayyyyyyyyyy more flexible and there isn't a more "sleeper" setup out there.
I can watch 4-6 things all the time right on the DIC & HUD and set alarms for anything I want. It can ding at me for lean at WOT or fuel pressure going under a certain point, knock retard over a certain point, whatever you can think of pretty much.. I probably sound like I sell the damn things, but I promise I don't, haha.
I can watch 4-6 things all the time right on the DIC & HUD and set alarms for anything I want. It can ding at me for lean at WOT or fuel pressure going under a certain point, knock retard over a certain point, whatever you can think of pretty much.. I probably sound like I sell the damn things, but I promise I don't, haha.
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Dash logic is wayyyyyyyyyy more flexible and there isn't a more "sleeper" setup out there.
I can watch 4-6 things all the time right on the DIC & HUD and set alarms for anything I want. It can ding at me for lean at WOT or fuel pressure going under a certain point, knock retard over a certain point, whatever you can think of pretty much.. I probably sound like I sell the damn things, but I promise I don't, haha.
I can watch 4-6 things all the time right on the DIC & HUD and set alarms for anything I want. It can ding at me for lean at WOT or fuel pressure going under a certain point, knock retard over a certain point, whatever you can think of pretty much.. I probably sound like I sell the damn things, but I promise I don't, haha.
#4
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St. Jude Donor '15
0-5V fuel pressure sensor for monitoring FP
I just have the wideband sensor, no fuel pressure sensor. I figure if AFR's are right then fuel pressure can't be too bad since the car has no way to compensate automatically for low fuel pressure.
For boost you need a MAP sensor capable of reading boost. If the car already has one that can read boost then you can just pull that data right off the OBD port without adding anything. If not, you can install a stand alone MAP sensor and then connect it to one of the inputs on the dash logic interface
knock retard, fuel trims, etc. can all be picked up over the OBD port so you don't have to do anything for those
#5
Do both or fail
#6
Can you elaborate please? If i want AFR then i need a wideband? Is that a special O2 sensor? does the PLX come with and O2 sensor?
You will need a wideband with 5V output for wideband readings. PLX's gen 4 setup is what I would recommend personally.
0-5V fuel pressure sensor for monitoring FP
I just have the wideband sensor, no fuel pressure sensor. I figure if AFR's are right then fuel pressure can't be too bad since the car has no way to compensate automatically for low fuel pressure.
For boost you need a MAP sensor capable of reading boost. If the car already has one that can read boost then you can just pull that data right off the OBD port without adding anything. If not, you can install a stand alone MAP sensor and then connect it to one of the inputs on the dash logic interface
knock retard, fuel trims, etc. can all be picked up over the OBD port so you don't have to do anything for those
0-5V fuel pressure sensor for monitoring FP
I just have the wideband sensor, no fuel pressure sensor. I figure if AFR's are right then fuel pressure can't be too bad since the car has no way to compensate automatically for low fuel pressure.
For boost you need a MAP sensor capable of reading boost. If the car already has one that can read boost then you can just pull that data right off the OBD port without adding anything. If not, you can install a stand alone MAP sensor and then connect it to one of the inputs on the dash logic interface
knock retard, fuel trims, etc. can all be picked up over the OBD port so you don't have to do anything for those
#7
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St. Jude Donor '15
Dash logic does not normally include a wideband setup, but you can purchase one from places that sell dash logic. I recommend the PLX gen4 wideband setup. Google it and you will find plenty of places that sell it. I bought mine on Amazon.
I would specifically recommend the "gen4" version because it includes a newer type of wideband oxygen sensor that does not have to be calibrated and should last a lot longer than the older ones.
#8
THANK YOU!!! One last question if you don't mind. I have headers with only one sensor hole on each bank. I would replace one sensor (narrow band) for the new wide band. Am i correct in assuming the output of this wideband O2 sensor goes direct to the PLX unit. Then you must run another wire from the PLX unit back to the car's O2 sensor harness? I guess i am splicing wires?
Yes you need a wideband oxygen sensor & controller to read AFR. The oxygen sensors that come on the car are called narrowband oxygen sensors and can only tell if you the car is richer or leaner than 14.7:1, but can't really tell you by how much. So if it's 12:1 or 10:1 or 14:1, it can't tell.. it can only see it's richer than 14.7:1. Narrowband oxygen sensors are useless for tuning WOT.
Dash logic does not normally include a wideband setup, but you can purchase one from places that sell dash logic. I recommend the PLX gen4 wideband setup. Google it and you will find plenty of places that sell it. I bought mine on Amazon.
I would specifically recommend the "gen4" version because it includes a newer type of wideband oxygen sensor that does not have to be calibrated and should last a lot longer than the older ones.
Dash logic does not normally include a wideband setup, but you can purchase one from places that sell dash logic. I recommend the PLX gen4 wideband setup. Google it and you will find plenty of places that sell it. I bought mine on Amazon.
I would specifically recommend the "gen4" version because it includes a newer type of wideband oxygen sensor that does not have to be calibrated and should last a lot longer than the older ones.
#9
You'll need to weld an o2 sensor bung behind the narrow band sensors at a slight angle for the wideband o2 sensor to go in.
The wideband o2 sensor should hook up directly to the PLX controller and then wire up the PLX controller to the Dashlogic using 5v. It should be pretty easy.
The wideband o2 sensor should hook up directly to the PLX controller and then wire up the PLX controller to the Dashlogic using 5v. It should be pretty easy.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '15
THANK YOU!!! One last question if you don't mind. I have headers with only one sensor hole on each bank. I would replace one sensor (narrow band) for the new wide band. Am i correct in assuming the output of this wideband O2 sensor goes direct to the PLX unit. Then you must run another wire from the PLX unit back to the car's O2 sensor harness? I guess i am splicing wires?
Wideband and narrowband oxygen sensors have completely different outputs and are not compatible or interchangeable, so you need to have both the existing/original oxygen sensors + the wideband one.
#11
According to PLX instructions you can replace a narrowband. It says you can use the 0-1V output on the PLX to feed the car's ECU. Am i reading this correctly?
http://www.plxdevices.com/v/vspfiles...user_guide.pdf
http://www.plxdevices.com/v/vspfiles...user_guide.pdf
#12
This is from their website... although I don't know how reliable this set up would be.
The narrowband output is ideal for stock narrowband oxygen sensor replacement where the simulated narrowband analog output is fed back into your ECU to make it operate as if the stock narrowband oxygen sensor is still installed while running the PLX wideband setup.
The narrowband output is ideal for stock narrowband oxygen sensor replacement where the simulated narrowband analog output is fed back into your ECU to make it operate as if the stock narrowband oxygen sensor is still installed while running the PLX wideband setup.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '15
According to PLX instructions you can replace a narrowband. It says you can use the 0-1V output on the PLX to feed the car's ECU. Am i reading this correctly?
http://www.plxdevices.com/v/vspfiles...user_guide.pdf
http://www.plxdevices.com/v/vspfiles...user_guide.pdf
This is from their website... although I don't know how reliable this set up would be.
The narrowband output is ideal for stock narrowband oxygen sensor replacement where the simulated narrowband analog output is fed back into your ECU to make it operate as if the stock narrowband oxygen sensor is still installed while running the PLX wideband setup.
The narrowband output is ideal for stock narrowband oxygen sensor replacement where the simulated narrowband analog output is fed back into your ECU to make it operate as if the stock narrowband oxygen sensor is still installed while running the PLX wideband setup.
The wideband can't and won't switch nearly as fast as the narrowbands normally do and when I looked at the fuel trim values when using the "real" narrowband O2's vs. the simulated one I never got the same values. It just never seemed to work the same. I had an error for the simulated O2 not switching fast enough as well
#14
Somehow the problems aren't a suprise to me. I am shooting for reliablility so adding a standalone definitely seems preferable. Thanks again for your time.
Yeah, I wasn't going to mention that feature because I had a bad experience with that on another brand... I would strongly recommend you try to leave the stock O2's alone and just add the wideband. I had a wideband pop up an error one time while I was using it to simulate the narrowband and my fuel trims for one bank ended up maxed out at like 25%+ and the car barely ran. Luckily I had my computer with me and was able to disable fuel trims and made it home fine.. but I'm not sure how many people drive around with a laptop and HP Tuners interface pretty much all the time, lol
The wideband can't and won't switch nearly as fast as the narrowbands normally do and when I looked at the fuel trim values when using the "real" narrowband O2's vs. the simulated one I never got the same values. It just never seemed to work the same. I had an error for the simulated O2 not switching fast enough as well
The wideband can't and won't switch nearly as fast as the narrowbands normally do and when I looked at the fuel trim values when using the "real" narrowband O2's vs. the simulated one I never got the same values. It just never seemed to work the same. I had an error for the simulated O2 not switching fast enough as well
#15
Team Owner
No rear o2 sensor holes? Just stick it in a rear hole.
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St. Jude Donor '15
#19
Team Owner
Yes, assuming no cats, just plug it in the rear hole.
#20
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