Another S/C Question. 2010 LS3 Grand Sport M6
#21
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#22
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St. Jude Donor '15
I've been very tempted to pick up a copy of HP Tuners and take a look at the tune myself. I used to do my own tuning on my LT1 f-body in the late 90s, but I'd have to spend some time refreshing/relearning before I'd feel comfortable changing anything. Might also get in touch with BlownblueZ06 since he's local and have him take a look at the tune.
Keep in mind you'll also need a wideband. I've had very good luck out of my gen 4 PLX unit. I had a MTX-L from Innovate and it gave me problems constantly after the first few months. The pro interface is usually preferred as it has external inputs for wideband, fuel pressure, etc.. The cheaper/basic interface does not (you can get around this but it involves using one of the AC pressure sensor wires as a wideband input, so not really the best solution in the world)
#23
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You can sometimes stalk some eBay auctions and get them cheaper than retail. Takes some time though.. I bought and sold a few and ended up basically getting a pro interface for nothing when it was all said and done.
Keep in mind you'll also need a wideband. I've had very good luck out of my gen 4 PLX unit. I had a MTX-L from Innovate and it gave me problems constantly after the first few months. The pro interface is usually preferred as it has external inputs for wideband, fuel pressure, etc.. The cheaper/basic interface does not (you can get around this but it involves using one of the AC pressure sensor wires as a wideband input, so not really the best solution in the world)
Keep in mind you'll also need a wideband. I've had very good luck out of my gen 4 PLX unit. I had a MTX-L from Innovate and it gave me problems constantly after the first few months. The pro interface is usually preferred as it has external inputs for wideband, fuel pressure, etc.. The cheaper/basic interface does not (you can get around this but it involves using one of the AC pressure sensor wires as a wideband input, so not really the best solution in the world)
#24
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St. Jude Donor '15
True... although that feature is broken at the moment, which has a lot of people royally pissed off (including me)
There was a firmware update that came with the latest version of their software (about 4 months ago). The latest firmware added support for a lot of new stuff for the Ford guys, but unexpectedly messed up stand alone logging. There is no way to downgrade.
No ETA on a fix.
There was a firmware update that came with the latest version of their software (about 4 months ago). The latest firmware added support for a lot of new stuff for the Ford guys, but unexpectedly messed up stand alone logging. There is no way to downgrade.
No ETA on a fix.
#25
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True... although that feature is broken at the moment, which has a lot of people royally pissed off (including me)
There was a firmware update that came with the latest version of their software (about 4 months ago). The latest firmware added support for a lot of new stuff for the Ford guys, but unexpectedly messed up stand alone logging. There is no way to downgrade.
No ETA on a fix.
There was a firmware update that came with the latest version of their software (about 4 months ago). The latest firmware added support for a lot of new stuff for the Ford guys, but unexpectedly messed up stand alone logging. There is no way to downgrade.
No ETA on a fix.
#26
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St. Jude Donor '15
If you ever need a copy of an older version let me know, I have a ton of them saved so probably have one that's old enough to not break anything.
It's really, really ****** that they haven't even given a real ETA for fixing it
#27
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Just don't download the latest software from the website if yours is still working...
If you ever need a copy of an older version let me know, I have a ton of them saved so probably have one that's old enough to not break anything.
It's really, really ****** that they haven't even given a real ETA for fixing it
If you ever need a copy of an older version let me know, I have a ton of them saved so probably have one that's old enough to not break anything.
It's really, really ****** that they haven't even given a real ETA for fixing it
#28
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Just got done talking to Bret, going to have him retune and install meth in a few weeks.
#29
Drifting
I didn't know you were considering meth. I'm leaning to A&A T-trim, meth and already have the headers. I'll start with 4.0 pulley and take it from there. Looking to match the power level of a buddy of mine that lives in the Dallas area. Got a ride in his 2013 that was such a blast, I had to jump back on a Vette... Uh, that would be your fault Evan HA!
#30
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#31
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I'd have to agree... it does run quite well and if it's not broke don't fix it. Seems a little fat on fuel near the top but I thought that would deter detonation?
I didn't know you were considering meth. I'm leaning to A&A T-trim, meth and already have the headers. I'll start with 4.0 pulley and take it from there. Looking to match the power level of a buddy of mine that lives in the Dallas area. Got a ride in his 2013 that was such a blast, I had to jump back on a Vette... Uh, that would be your fault Evan HA!
I didn't know you were considering meth. I'm leaning to A&A T-trim, meth and already have the headers. I'll start with 4.0 pulley and take it from there. Looking to match the power level of a buddy of mine that lives in the Dallas area. Got a ride in his 2013 that was such a blast, I had to jump back on a Vette... Uh, that would be your fault Evan HA!
#32
Le Mans Master
Might as well swap to the 3.6. You'll pick up a 1-2 psi.
Here is what your dyno should look like AFR wise. This is no meth. Meth would be 10.8 ish.
Here is what your dyno should look like AFR wise. This is no meth. Meth would be 10.8 ish.
#33
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St. Jude Donor '15
afr should not vary with temp.. And at the very least, it shouldn't vary inconsistently.
#34
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Already discussed with Bret, will be going to 3.6 for more boost.
Good to know.
OP, don't let any of this scare you away, just make sure to find a good installer/tuner and make sure to get a dyno graph with A/F after install. My mistake was just asking about A/F and trusting when he told me it was good. At least I did do a follow up dyno at another tuner with A/F only 6-7 months later to verify, but should have verified immediately.
OP, don't let any of this scare you away, just make sure to find a good installer/tuner and make sure to get a dyno graph with A/F after install. My mistake was just asking about A/F and trusting when he told me it was good. At least I did do a follow up dyno at another tuner with A/F only 6-7 months later to verify, but should have verified immediately.
#35
Drifting
A&A says Si will produce 6-7psi with 4", 8-9 with 3.8"
I'm strongly considering T-trim and the ECS Novi 1500 is almost the same.
ECS advise 11psi with 4.1", 14 with 3.7", 18 (max) with 3.5"
I know all this depends on the lower pulley size but assume standard option as kitted. I think A&A offers 4.0 std with the T-trim which would be about 8psi. Knowing the Si is 78% efficient and T-trim 75%, I'm struggling on which way to go. I doubt that I'll ever push for more than 9 and maybe 10psi. Thoughts?
#36
Le Mans Master
T trim. Don't go off boost numbers, each car will be different depending on mods. The T trim is so much more potent of a blower. I've had both.
#37
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St. Jude Donor '15
#38
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I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a blower setup. I had a 2012 Mustang with a magnuson that put down 550/475 before I bought this vette.
Id like to be in the 550-600 whp mark after install/tune. I have plenty of people telling me to go the A&A route, while many others are pushing me to the Edelbrock setup. I dont mind going either way, but from what I've been reading and searching on here, the edelbrock 599 kit doesn't get me where I want as far as WHP. My car is mostly stock, and I dont plan on doing a cam/meth/headers installations any time soon.
So can some people that have these setups please chime in on power levels on an otherwise stock LS3 dry sump? I'd love to see some dyno graphs before/after with either the A&A or the Edelbrock.
Id like to be in the 550-600 whp mark after install/tune. I have plenty of people telling me to go the A&A route, while many others are pushing me to the Edelbrock setup. I dont mind going either way, but from what I've been reading and searching on here, the edelbrock 599 kit doesn't get me where I want as far as WHP. My car is mostly stock, and I dont plan on doing a cam/meth/headers installations any time soon.
So can some people that have these setups please chime in on power levels on an otherwise stock LS3 dry sump? I'd love to see some dyno graphs before/after with either the A&A or the Edelbrock.
FYI.... the blower pull was the second back-to-back pull we made. I drove it ~80 miles, parked it for about 20 minutes, then straight on the dyno. Not exactly ideal conditions, but it is what it is. At least you should get an idea of the gains and power curve.
#39
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St. Jude Donor '15
Just curious how much timing you're running at wot?
#40
Melting Slicks
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Lemme pull up my old tune file and the dyno log....
Okay, looks like I saw 13 degrees at peak power on that pull. Logged 14 degrees near peak torque. I was commanding a peak of 15 degrees up top, but the much higher than normal IATs pulled a couple degrees. IATs were 117 degrees prior to the first pull. It never gets near that on the street.
You'll probably also notice the little KR dip that I hadn't yet eliminated around 3500 rpm. I knew this was pulley/fuel combo would be short lived, so I didn't go too overboard tuning this low-boost setup.
Okay, looks like I saw 13 degrees at peak power on that pull. Logged 14 degrees near peak torque. I was commanding a peak of 15 degrees up top, but the much higher than normal IATs pulled a couple degrees. IATs were 117 degrees prior to the first pull. It never gets near that on the street.
You'll probably also notice the little KR dip that I hadn't yet eliminated around 3500 rpm. I knew this was pulley/fuel combo would be short lived, so I didn't go too overboard tuning this low-boost setup.