Sid1231987

So I have a 2010 base model finally under way. Check out the build sheet and see if there's anything or any small tips or tricks I'm missing or leaving out that could cause issues

Engine wise:
Stock bottom end ls3
Replaced all rear main seals
Arp rod bolts
Ported polished ls3 heads flowing 368 cfm
Port matched fast 102 r
Nick Williams 102
Arp head studs
Vengeance ravings Katoik cam plus kit
Ferrara exhaust valves
Dallas performance big mouth intake
Direct drive F1X with 4.75" pulley 8 rib set up
Pinned ati 8 rib harmonic balancer
Tac welded water pump pulley
Melting high volume oil pump
Btr 660 dual springs with titanium retainers
Comp hardened push rods
Trunion upgrade
C5R timing chain and new tensioner
Ls7 lifters
Ls9 head gaskets

Fuel system:
Fore triple pump return
ID 1300 injectors
Fast fuel rails
Flex fuel sensor
All e85 compatible
Alky control twin nozzle meth kit

Drive train :
Rps triple disk carbon clutch
Dss 3.5" aluminum torque tube
Dss level 5 axles and hubs
Rpm level 7 tr6069 z06 gears 1-4 zr1 5&6
Rpm zr1 level 4 rear diff
Phadt engine and trans mounts
Ecs trans rear diff brace
Mgw short throw shifter
Drag spindles
15x10 rear conversion welds
Tick adjustable master cylinder

Exhaust:
Kooks 1&7/8 primaries with 3" collectors
Kooks xpipe without cats
3" stainless works axle back s type

Suspension:
Phadt coilovers with heavy duty sway bars

Running m&h race master 325/50/15 drag radials on the rear. Have weld 18x9 going up front. Any size tire yall recommend for up front? I didn't want skinnies bc I like being able to have braking power and able to change lanes I'm not a fan of skinnies in street cars for driving around town.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff but that about covers it. Running aem wideband afr/boost gauge with fail safe I'm going try to wire into my lnc2000 s step timing box to pull timing of the car gets out of optimal parameters. Also depending on boost and horsepower I may swap to my 4.5" pulley

Any and all help and pointers will be greatly appreciated

Sid1231987

1MEANGS

Nice build... Only thing I can see that would cause any issues is a stock bottom end... I'm sure it will hold it for awhile but an F1X on stock rods & Pistons that can last very long if you really spin that blower to its full potentional... In for results, really suprised you wouldn't of @ at least put a built bottom end in.

Sid1231987

I'm barely pushing the f1x with the big pulleys I will be using to spin the blower. I couldn't see forking out the money to run a forged bottom end on the ls3 block and 4 head bolt per cylinder design to still be limited by head lift and the strength of the block So I just did any cheap failsafes k could to make the factory bottom end hold up hopefully for a little while. Once I blow the engine or get bored with the power I'm going to do a billet bottom end Rhs 427 and spin the f1x to max rpm and shoot for 1300-1500 rwhp.

yur2slo

What are the rwhp goals? I feel sorry for that bottom end. Why not sell it while it is still worth something and put towards the built block? The F1X enjoys being spun, not sure the combo works too well for it(or for using for it's potential).

C6 Curtis

Well said, no need to have a forged bottom end if you already know your limits. Nice setup it will run good.

-Curtis

realcanuk

Nice setup but I would sell the current engine for good money instead of blowing it up. With all the other mods it seems you are obviously going for more power than the stock short block will like. The fast and throttle body are also big money that might not work out. Sell those and the engine and do the built one!! That F1x like to eat !!!

Sid1231987

At the minimum I'm going to push 800 rwhp. Once I start getting the time dialed in and playing with the pulleys I may push it to 900 and eventually 1000. Just depend how the cat acts and what my tuner feels we can run. Once I get in position to start forking out cash again I may push closer to the 1000 mark or just start building a new engine and sell the one in it for whatever I can get.

Running a 3:42 rear ended gear as recommended by rpm with a 28" tall rear tire. Any tire size or specific tire yall recommend for up from on a 18x9 inch rim????

Sid1231987

I know and I thought about it but with all the cash I've forked out over the last 4-5 months I have other priorities now taking over. " I need to buy a house or property " within the next year so now the car is going to be taking a break for now. I work a lot and barely drive the car it's my toy. I've talked to a bunch of guys on this forum and others and with proper tuning and fuel they're getting decent life at the 1000 rwhp set ups on similar builds.

I already had the fast and nick Williams 102 so I stuck with them and just had the fast runners cleaned up a bit. I already had the Katoik cam from vengeance racing when I was running na and a small shot of soray. I considered going more to a boost cam but after talking to guys in forums with the same or almost exact cam specs and forced induction set ups and the guys at vengeance racing I opted to keep it. The boost it may bleed with the over lap isn't of much concern with the massive blower and may actually benefit me by cutting down on cylinder pressure having a stock bottom end. But yes you're correct long term girl is big power set up. Hence the overkill on everything I've done. I'm leaving lots of room to grow in power levels

Sid1231987

Any of the forced induction guys run into cooling issues or issues with engine bay temps ??? Ac not working properly over heating anything like that?

realcanuk

I know I will get crap for saying this but I believe that only on the internet do stick short blocks survive 1000 rwhp unless they are never pushed. Everyone I know in person who tried blew them up with lower.

Sid1231987

I personally only know of 1 z06 that's making close to 1000 on e85 with boost and stock bottom end that beats on his car constantly. All others I know broke theirs before breaking 900. I'm not saying they aren't out there I just don't know them personally in real life.

realcanuk

By the way. Not trying to discourage you. It's an awesome build and It should be great. I think your plan to keep it down until doing a motor is smarter. You will have something to sell and cost less overall if you don't blow yours.
Keep in mind the few that survive are out of probably many hundreds or thousands that try. Lol.

Blackonblacksls

I've know plenty make into the mid or high 800s and last till they were pulled for whatever reason or till car was sold

realcanuk

Yup. Know some too. But don't know any at 1000 or more. Those are unicorns.

Sid1231987

I really appreciate all the Input guys keep it coming.

That's the plan stay between 800-900 range, hope it stays together until I get a real engine built then sell it for what I can get. Should be a real fun steer car to drive and play with when I'm not working my life away

Sid1231987

Race inter cooler

usmcpony

I ended up pushing the limits of my bottom end. I wish I would of sold it while it was still together. I would of saved probably $7,000. From what I hear. The NW throttle body isn't boost friendly. Which sucks cause they're gorgeous.

Sid1231987

I've heard that as well about the NW but I have two friends running them under boost in camaros and so far no issues. I'm hoping I don't have any and if so I'll put the factory throttle body on

schpenxel

Sub'd!