Nino S

All of you blown/big HP guys please help!

I just got my car back from getting a 6 bolt ERL, F1X to 21 psi and the race intercooler, built trans/rear, RPS triple, FORE fuel system, etc.

1057 rwhp on 93 pump and meth on a very safe tune at 21 psi which is great for a pump gas car.

Along with the build it got a new OEM water pump, Dewitt's radiator, Dewitt's dual fan set up, 160 degree stat. So that is covered. I am running water/dexcool.

I have the Procharger race inter-cooler, factory A/C condenser, in front of the Dewitt radiator. I am also running a vented carbon fiber hood. I just went through the cooling system with the shop foreman at my dealership and verified that I have no air in the system and the fans are working.

Driving the car home from the shop my coolant temp would not go below 228 and got as high as 245 degrees when I got stuck in traffic. I had to turn the heat on full blast in 80 degree weather sitting in traffic to get it in to the 230's which was not fun.

I need help on what my next step should be. I have a A&A shroud coming from the shop that did the build to try and deflect more air to the radiator but I do not see that getting me back to 210 degrees where I was at before this build on a stock motor, stock cooling system and P1SC Procharger. I am open to any suggestions because spending $50k on a build and not being able to cruise or get stuck in traffic without having to have the heat on is very frustrating.

Update 5/6/16

Dewitts short radiator for C6Z
17" Brushless single fan from Dewitts
160 * stat
Procharger Race front mount intercooler
ECS cradle spacers - drop down ~1" and forward is adjustable
Cut out center/lower section of front frame rail
Tig welded/boxed in for reinforcement
Custom aluminum top shroud and side ducting
Removed factory plastic lower grill trim
Seibon vented carbon fiber hood
New OEM water pump
New OEM AC Condenser
Custom front bumper intake for F1X - to lower IAT's, not directly for coolant temp

Have only had one day out on the street - 75 degree ambient temp and never saw 200 degrees where in similar ambient temps I was seeing 230+ degrees. If the weather breaks on Sunday I plan on sitting in a little traffic with AC on to see how cool she runs. Thank you to everyone that helped me through this issue!

Pekka_Perkeles

Do you/your tuner have any information about EGT's for cruising/idle areas (while and especially) after tuning?

Does your car consume way more gasoline now while cruising? What's your mileage now? Do not trust the instrument panel, though.

Unreal

My car runs nice and cool. I've covered cooling issues more times than I can count. Find one of the 1000x old post on it.

Nino S

I searched this section with "running hot" "coolant temp" "supercharged operating temp"

Any help pointing to me to one will be greatly appreciated

Pekka_Perkeles

Somewhere there I guess:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1589937826

neverstop

Unreal has 1,100whp in AZ heat and does fine. For my 900whp car with LSX iron block, notched the front bumper and pulled the top of the radiator forward about 2 inches with the top mounts both helped noticeably. I've heard adding some timing to the idle map can help too. Dewitts brushless fan helped a lot too. The shrouds and side plates and notching the front bumper all help a lot as well so I'd do that and just all the other stuff and you'll be fine. I know it's simple but I'd make sure your fan is coming on properly too, with my 160* thermostat and dewitts fan starting to come on at ~160* my car basically never ever gets >210* and I have no oil cooler and iron block with no vents in my hood.

Nino S

I just message my tuner, thank you for your input. I have only out a tank of gas through it since I picked it up and I honestly didn't even bother monitoring it because I have had all my attention on the oil and coolant temp.

Pekka_Perkeles

Of course it is important to have a decent hardware for cooling.

No doubt about that.

On the other hand, by just playing with tune - even with a stock engine - it is easily possible to have an overheating engine with melted plug wires, clogged cats and so on. Just try 15 degrees of advance while cruising. :-)

Now, with lower than stock compression and big cam, you may have huge RWHP, but sometimes tuners forget to optimize those so important cruising load/rpm's. If you just tune mostly idle and WOT ignition advance, then you may have issues with overheating.

Not always, but sometimes.

Maybe it's me, but I always recommend at least one EGT sensor with big builds.

More you know, the better. And it's just $100 or so. Not a big deal. But at least you'll know.

Nino S

thank you. I am waiting to hear back from my tuner and just sent him this thread.

I also just went through the thread posted above and am going to remove the IC, clean the condenser, cut the front crash bar between the air bag sensors, try to modify the deflector so it is lower and pushes more air up and go from there. I have a 160 stat and can't imagine how hot it will be running in a couple months when it is 95+ degrees out. Thank guys

neverstop

this stuff works wonders for cleaning out AC coil. be careful though it will ruin anything painted or anodized.

Unreal

Standard dewitts dual fans are not near enough fan.

Nino S

you are running a single 17" dewitt's correct?

Nino S

I am currently running these

http://www.dewitts.com/collections/s...c6-fan-upgrade

Unreal

Yes, running the nuova 17".

Those fans are not near enough. Only fans that really work are the PWM crazy fans like the Nuova or the D3 setup.

I also specifically setup my FMIC to make sure radiator got plenty of flow. Good luck with that on the PC race cooler. That will be trickey. You may not ever be able to get it where you want with that FMIC.

Why is the power so low too? 18-19psi my car made 1118rwhp on 91+meth. 1190 on 21-22psi. I would think the bigger blower would easily blow those numbers out of the water.

realcanuk

I read that a flexalite fan and new rad hoses are a big help to temperatures.

neverstop

you may want to call some of the shops that build a lot of 1k whp f1x cars like Advanced Modern Performance or D3 (?) and see what they are doing on customer cars. That d3 fan setup looks gnarly.

Nino S

I am going to check out the D3 fan set up as well. We left a good amount of power on the table with the current set up. I wanted it to be safe for the 1/2 mile event 4/30/16 which is 4100 ft above sea level and last year the DA was 6000 which really helped hurting my stock motor. I am also very new to this level and 1057 rwhp with a safe high elevation tune is fine until I get a couple hundred hard miles in the drivers seat. We also only pulled it to 7000 rpm. I am told there is 1100+ rwhp on the table at sea level when I am ready to jump to that level. I am also scared of my FAST intake manifold cracking so I am pricing out sheet metal intakes for when I switch to E85 and tune to kill.

Nino S

I just got your message but your inbox is full

Ok I am open to trying water wetter. What are the risks running wetter/water vs water/cooalnt? If it drops me 5 degrees I am for it as long as it is safe.

I was up until 3 am going over all of the posts where a couple guys cut up the crash bar and bumper and am definitely going to give it a run.

What do you mean when you say notch the bumper?

thank you!

Nino

ajrothm

Dude... It's common that it's gonna run hot with the AC on in hot/humid climates with an intercooler in the front... Especially that big monster race cooler.

There is a few things you can try, most of them won't work. This has been an on going battle for most of us every summer, (especially the C5 guys with no grill)...

The trick is to try to space the intercooler forward away from the radiator to allow more gap for air to enter through the bottom..

You name it, I've tried it... Only thing left for me is to cut the front frame cross bar out and move the intercooler all the way up to the license plate area in the nose.

I have not tried the D3 brushless fan combo... I did have the single 17" brushless and it did not work well for me.

Good luck man,
I'm sub'd for your progress...

Btw Nick's car is the high power, cool running unicorn that hauls a$$ and never hurts motors..... His is THE ONE.. Lol

realcanuk

Said it many times, so one more wont hurt. Leaving some space between the IC and condenser, and re using the stock fan shroud (with modifications) has worked well for me. The shroud forces air through the rad, as it was intended to do all along.
I have yet to see another car where this was done, but it works for me. My friend with an blown Z06 copied this, and it also reduced his temps to a manageable level.

I know........... its not florida or Texas weather here, but it gets fairly hot in the summer. My buddies Z06 was running 230-240s like some of you guys, until he did this.

I also have an oil cooler with a fan, and the fog lights removed to allow tons of airflow through all my coolers.

Here is the shroud partway through the hacking up process.....


Here it is back installed.....