t1blackout

Hey guys,

2006 Z06 140k miles w/ supercharger

I'm getting ready to run the 1/2 mile pretty soon and my motor started making a funny noise. It sounds almost like a squeaking or turkey call or something and it goes faster when the engine increases in RPM. Do you think this could be a belt? I have a supercharger on the car and under acceleration a couple of months ago I frayed the old belt that seemed to be wrapping around everything. I had the belt replaced but I'm not sure if there is more than one belt on the engine.

Any ideas what this sound is? MP3 file attached.

schpenxel

Sound like a bearing somewhere on the belt system to me. Could be idler or one of the accessories.

I'd pull belt, start car, see if noise goes away. If so, start spinning pullies until you find one that makes noise or doesn't feel right

Or you can take a mechanics stethoscope and start listening to everything you can get it near and try to find the source that way (with belt still on).

I think pulling the belt is probably easier but I don't know what SC system you're running.

extrapilot

I would pull both belts to eliminate the possibility that you have the issues with anything in the front of the engine. If the squeaking is still there, obviously you need to look elsewhere.
The sound bite that you have resembles this one that I posted. Try to fixate on the squeaking sound, as you will hear a lot of clatter from the valve/rockers. This would not be good news as this engine suffered a lifter failure.

neverstop

could be a million things but my money is on a failed idler pulley bearing. I've had two of those fail so far, not sure why they don't last longer considering they don't really do anything....

of course if you try to run the car without the belts on it, goes without saying you can only do that for short amount of time and should probably start with the engine stone cold

schpenxel

I've had idler bearings go on mine too.. I was surprised but mine were quite gone. Would barely spin when hot and then locked up when cold.

Spoolin8

I just replaced the lifters in my car and have numerous videos of the sound. Collapsed lifters make more of a knock where as yours sounds like a chirp. Always hard to diagnose without hearing in person though. Follow the advice given and start by removing the belt.

madmatt9471

Stock balancer?

If so take a close look at the balancer and see if it is wobbling, even in the slightest degree.

If you are fraying belts in anyway then it is the balancer. The stock balancers outer ring usually start to come away from the inner ring, the rubber seal starts to slip and the belt will "CHIRP" just like you are experiencing!

Thanks,Matt

t1blackout

Do you guys have a recommended replacement balancer I should buy?

schpenxel

C2501 from summit is what I'm running and have been for maybe a year and a half now with supercharger.. no problems. Of course you'll have to pin it for the SC too

madmatt9471

If your going to stay 6 rib, then you could go with Fluidampr one piece balancer er, it is an excellent product and piece.

I used this on my C5 FI with 734 rwhp and had excellent success and loved the quality and price.

When my stock C6 balancer takes a dump, I will use one on it too!

Thanks, Matt

madmatt9471

One of the main things you want to get rid of is the Viton Rubber seal between the two rings, inner and outer, by getting or purchasing a good one piece.

I at one point replaced mine with another one with a two piece design and it too eventually failed and then went to the Fluidampr one piece and then pinned it and all was great.

Thanks, Matt

t1blackout

Thanks guys! I dropped it off at the shop today and hopefully will have it fixed before the end of the week. I'll let you guys know what it is when I find out.

t1blackout

Hey guys,

So they took the belts off and the noise continued. They put the mechanics stethoscope on the engine and said it was definitely not coming from there.

Apparently the noise is coming from the torque tube near the clutch... does this make any sense at all? Should that make noise with the clutch not engaged?

If they are going to be taking that area apart anyways I may as well have them install a new clutch, right? Does anyone have any recommendations or do you think that this diagnosis is off somehow?

Would that noise be safe to drag race with just in case they can't fix it in time?

schpenxel

Does it change at all with the clutch in or out? Out of gear or in gear?

I've had torque tube bearings go out on a C5 and a C6, both around 130K miles, so I always think about those first. If you have the clutch on the floor, transmission in gear, the driveshaft in the torque tube isn't spinning.. you can use that to try to narrow down possibilities. i.e. if the noise is worse when the driveshaft IS spinning then it's probably torque tube bearings. If it's worse when it's not spinning then I'd lean more towards pilot bearing or throwout bearing.

The clutch slave cylinder/throwout bearing and pilot bearing are also prime suspects. Replace them ALL while it is apart. I took mine apart the first time right around the same mileage yours is at now and every one of those bearings was fried. Pilot bearing was locked up, torque tube bearings were rough as hell, throwout bearing was bad.. They just don't seem to last much beyond that.

Clutch wise Mantic 9000 or Monster LT1-SC are my usual recommendations. I have a Monster LT1-S but would do a -SC if I were doing it over again. Everyone around here seems to love the Mantic so that's an option too. Add remote bleeder while it's apart.

No one can say it's truly safe or not safe to drag race on. My opinion is it's probably not going to break anything that isn't already worn out, but that's just a guess

t1blackout

Thank you for the advice. I sent the link for this post to the shop that is working on the car. Do you know of any particular pros/cons of the Mantic 9000 vs the Monster LT1-SC? Why is the SC better than the S?

MIGHTYM0USE

sound like this? https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...8-c6-auto.html

here is a pic of the prop shaft inside the tq tube, thats a bearing under the guys thumb, these could be bad at 140k miles
and behind that you see the 'guibo' isolator though that one is an aftermarket. if you have original of these could also be coming apart and rubbing the tq tube resulting in squeak


here's what it looks like when it comes apart.. when it is this bad it is usually accompanied by vibration
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-pics.html

because i know the car pretty well i also have an odd question. does it go away when you remove the oil cap.

schpenxel

The -SC will handle more power than the -S. -S uses the same organic friction discs that come in the C7 Corvettes, the -SC uses cerametallic discs which will hold better and handle more heat. Costs more too though..

I have a long story about how I ended up with the -S, and I've been happy with it, but the jist of it is if I were starting from scratch I'd try to get the -SC if I went Monster. Nothing wrong with the -S, just that the -SC will handle more heat and doesn't cost much more

For their LT1 clutch monster basically took the C7 Corvette twin disc clutch, pressure plate and floater plates and made a custom flywheel that will fit on C5/6's that the rest of the clutch will bolt on to.. so it's literally a factory clutch (or factory with upgraded discs). I've really been happy with it. It was silent before I installed a cam, now it makes a little bit of noise with the clutch engaged while in neutral. Not much, but it is there

I had a Mantic 9000 too but due to installer error (I was the installer, lol), I can't really compare it. I basically ended up with ARP lube all over the flywheel so it shuddered like crazy. Tons of people around here really like them though so I thought they were worth mentioning

For whatever reason the LT1 clutches have caught on more in the Camaro world, so you might check on some other boards if you want to read more about them

t1blackout

Mightymouse... the oil cap? haha... Did that fix problems before or something???

t1blackout

It didn't sound exactly like that link above but similar.

extrapilot

As schpenxel suggested that to eliminate the tube bearing issue idea, with the trans in gear with the clutch to the floor, car standing still, that noise would stop if its the bearings in the TT, but this would not rule out a pilot or throw-out bearing.
I would not rule out with my observations that I previously posted here, that squeaking is very similar to the you tube vid I posted, minus the clattering of the valve lifters.
I would not be racing if it was my car not knowing what the noise is for sure.
GL