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This is the rack I made up for the electronics. Bolts into the passenger footwell area, with enough wire to pull it out far enough for repairs/additions.
I spent a day bending up the tubing and putting this together. I was a little dis-heartened when it was done and looks no different than a toddler size lawn chair!
I think it looks great! The passenger side is going to look real clean when done.
Still working on the wiring, but was able to get a little side project in. Manual steering rack is done. This is a custom width rack specifically for the Vette, and includes adjustment for bump steer at the ends.
New brackets required cutting the tabs off the crossmember, I decided to level it out on my mill..
Steering shaft was next. The rack came with parts to make a 2 piece shaft, but I found I was able to clear my headers with a straight shaft. Safety requires some sort of collapsible shaft, and I found I was able to use the new lower ujoint with a stub of 3/4" shaft and weld it to the oem shaft (cut off). Worked out slick, and I was able to cobble together a welding positioner to make the welds a bit prettier.
Congrats on the entire project and thank you for posting the manual rack and pinion been looking into doing this to reduce clutter in the front making easy to work on the car lighter and of course free parasitic losses.
Will like some feed back on effort with the manual rack and how it compares steering wheel turns thank you for sharing, Dave.
Congrats on the entire project and thank you for posting the manual rack and pinion been looking into doing this to reduce clutter in the front making easy to work on the car lighter and of course free parasitic losses.
Will like some feed back on effort with the manual rack and how it compares steering wheel turns thank you for sharing, Dave.
Thanks.. I should have in back on the ground in a couple weeks and will keep you posted on the steering effort.. I was happy to lose all the clutter up front, will be moving the alternator next and that will eliminate the entire accessory drive.
Very nice build, keep up informed. I really enjoy the updates.
Drag radials for the dyno only?
I just ran the Texas Mile with about the same power, went 220.8 mph.
Congrats on the 220.. How was the track surface?
My one and only tire failure was a DR on the dyno.. I think it was a combination of low psi and too much down pressure with the straps. Have not been back in a while, but I will probably stick with the R888's.
On the track it is R888 testing up to 200, R7's above that. Reminds me, I need to order a fresh set for our July event
Man, I would love that manual steering rack. I absolutely hate the power steering design on the C6Z. This would make removing the front accessories so much easier!
Thanks.. I should have in back on the ground in a couple weeks and will keep you posted on the steering effort.. I was happy to lose all the clutter up front, will be moving the alternator next and that will eliminate the entire accessory drive.
Are you using the ac compressor location for the alternator.
My one and only tire failure was a DR on the dyno.. I think it was a combination of low psi and too much down pressure with the straps. Have not been back in a while, but I will probably stick with the R888's.
On the track it is R888 testing up to 200, R7's above that. Reminds me, I need to order a fresh set for our July event
Track surface good, no prep, so not traction down low.
There have been several DR issues running the Mile, so they outlawed them.
I run R7's, not speed rated but that is what the Ford GT ran at 293 and all the other fast cars run. I will not run this Vette anymore as they want me to install a full race cage. Mine is a street car so no cage for me.
I have the splitter designed the same with supports and ready to install after paint. Lowered the car to its maximum with stock suspension and did four corner balancing and alignment. The front is now only 3/4 inch lower and back only came down 3/8 inch. So there is more rake. Does this seem right? I thought I would be able to lower it evenly by at least one inch on the stock bolts. I dont have coilovers so I guess there is not as much adjustability. What do you think? Should it have lowered more? Will the additional rake unsettle the car at 230? I appreciate your input.
I have the splitter designed the same with supports and ready to install after paint. Lowered the car to its maximum with stock suspension and did four corner balancing and alignment. The front is now only 3/4 inch lower and back only came down 3/8 inch. So there is more rake. Does this seem right? I thought I would be able to lower it evenly by at least one inch on the stock bolts. I dont have coilovers so I guess there is not as much adjustability. What do you think? Should it have lowered more? Will the additional rake unsettle the car at 230? I appreciate your input.
I am not sure how far they will go down on stock bolts, I have always been lowered on coilovers... The rake should not unsettle that car, it will just be adding downforce and drag. Like I mentioned, a 1/2" spacer in the rear of my car netted over 150 lbs of downforce. You may be better off with the traction it provides.
I have not experimented with a diminishing return on added rake, but I did test lowering it, and there was a point that drag did not decrease even as we went lower in the rear.
I am not sure how far they will go down on stock bolts, I have always been lowered on coilovers... The rake should not unsettle that car, it will just be adding downforce and drag. Like I mentioned, a 1/2" spacer in the rear of my car netted over 150 lbs of downforce. You may be better off with the traction it provides.
I have not experimented with a diminishing return on added rake, but I did test lowering it, and there was a point that drag did not decrease even as we went lower in the rear.
Good point on the traction it provides, especially with a smaller tire narrow body. Going to do everything I can to help traction without flaring the fenders...ProEFI traction control, tire warmers and now I guess, rake!
I will let you know how it turns out....thanks!
Some updates... We have an event in less than 3 weeks!
Alternator relocation by Kfab:
I didnt document the wiring process much, but this is the trans/rear end harness. Mating plug is in the trunk floor, should make it real easy to pull the drivertrain.
I have been trying to do everything in house, but in this case I knew I was short on time, so I shipped the Hi-ram to Nitrous Outlet. I wanted 2 dry stages and to keep it under the manifold as it just seems like wasted space. These guys came thru for me, super happy with the results. Wont make jetting changes easy, but it is exactly what I wanted.
I have been trying to do everything in house, but in this case I knew I was short on time, so I shipped the Hi-ram to Nitrous Outlet. I wanted 2 dry stages and to keep it under the manifold as it just seems like wasted space. These guys came thru for me, super happy with the results. Wont make jetting changes easy, but it is exactly what I wanted.
Holy Cow, that is a clean looking set up!........looking forward to hearing the results of your next event.
04-27-2018, 10:37 PM
