EuroRod

Currently running a DeWitt shorty with EOC and a Big Mouth air inlet and the car will not cool.
Thinking I will order a DeWitt full size without the EOC and use the squeezed air inlet that came on my original PS1 ProCharger.

I'm wondering what kind of power loss I may have see if I do this?

LS2 402 cid forged roller motor with all the goodies

710 hp

gotjuice?

Not sure if that will really make a difference in cooling.

EuroRod

I believe that the DeWitts w/o the EOC and the increased height provides 20%'more cooling capacity?

Is this wrong. What radiators are people using to cool a 402 cid ProCharged engine?

realcanuk

I run a full size dewitts with no coolers in it and have now temperature issues. I think that is only part of the puzzle but definitely works better than the shorty.

This reads horribly wrong..LOL.... meant to write "no temperature issues."

chpmnsws6

What's your ducting like? Fan setup? Coolant type and ratio?

realcanuk

Are you asking me or the op ?

chpmnsws6

If you're both having issues, then both of you. I learned long ago in the track rat Miata world, ducting was everything. Some here have said hood venting makes little difference, though I disagree (but lack the magnehelic differential pressure gauge to really test it so it's all speculation). A turbo/v8 car that was having issues with cooling always saw massive improvements with ducting into and out of the radiator/engine bay. You have to make sure the air is forced into the coolers and not escaping around them.

realcanuk

I'm. It having any problems at all. I edited my post. You can disagree all you like but hood vents made very little, if any difference to my car. Maybe they have a bit more effect if the car runs too hot, but mine never did.
The most important thing on outlet cars for cooling is allowing enough rad surface to see airflow.

EuroRod

My current cooling system....

DeWitts shorty w/ EOC
DeWitts dual Spal fans
Evans coolant
Jeggs HD water pump w/ 160 t'stat
Custom shrouding. All the incoming air is shrouded through the radiator.

ProCharger IC has been moved forward as far as possible to allow bottom fed air access to the radiator.

Cannot drive the car in Summer heat. Cannot drive the car with the AC on.

Fall temps (80or less) the car runs 190-200 cruising, but will climb to 225+ in traffic w/o AC.

Has anyone experimented with a 3 row radiator? I've heard conflicting stories that they work great, other say too restrictive.

I'm stumped.

realcanuk

Sounds like a very similar setup to mine. Main difference is see is my full size rad. Other things that I've done that should effect temps (although I have no proof) is a good oil cooler, steam vents all connected, and everything possible to allow air in and out of the area quickly. I also have coated headers.

It doesn't get all that hot here but for comparison when 80-85 ish here, my car runs high 180s cruising and the most I see in traffic is around 205. That's no A/C running.

I notice that when the temp is climbing in traffic, just holding the rpm at 1500 starts it coming down, I guess due to more coolant flow. I always wondered if a better flowing water pump would make a difference but from others experience I don't see it.

Unreal

Drove home Friday, it was almost 100 outside and my car was running at 55F after about 20 minutes of stop and go traffic.

I can send you my bad coolant temp sensor once the new one shows up if you want the car to run cool. Simple easy fix for cars that run hot

neverstop

I don't think changing the intake and slightly larger radiator will fix your issue. i run shorty dewitts with their 17" dewitts brushless fan with procharger and LSX iron block and no cooling issues but have only seen outside air temps of 91* or so at the max so far. AC is ice cold.

notching the front bumper frame and cutting side panels to help with ducting, etc all helped but mostly the 17" fan had the biggest impact.

SlowBusa08

cut the crash bar? have you dropped your IC yet? How much gap is between your rad and IC?

0Billy@MTI

First the radiator. Its all about incoming air and what its hitting. So how "thick" is your intercooler? How many things does the air have to go through before it hits the radiator? How much distance is there between each piece, i.e. intercooler 3" then condenser 1" radiator? Does your custom shrouding have distance behind the radiator or is it very tight to the back of the radiator? How are your fans running? primary:secondary? both on full? Have you checked voltage to the fans to ensure you are spinning the fans correctly? Have you cleaned your condenser out?

Second the Procharger, if you change from lets say a 3.5" 45* tube with high flow air filter back to the procharger inlet you are going to get a pressure drop of about 1-2psi which could be anywhere from 10-30hp.

Hope some of this helps, let me know once you start checking things off that list and we can dive further in.

EuroRod

Thanks for your reply, Lance.
The intercooler is the one that originally came with my first build and the PS1 ProCharger. It has been moved forward as far as possible. Probably around a 4" gap. All incoming air has been custom shrouded to the radiator. The fans are the dual Spals from DeWitts. Voltage is fine. I believe both fans come on full, but will confirm with my tuner.
Yesterday we bypassed the EOC in the DeWitts with no perceivable help in temp reduction.
I'm hoping to search and find a company that will build a standard dimension, two tube radiator w/o the EOC and with a notch for the 4" D1 inlet tube. Seems I've seen one somewhere.
My tuner and I are stumped. The solution may have to wait until next Summer as Fall season is here, and the car cools OK when OAT are below 75*.
Any suggestions appreciated. I'm ready to spend whatever it takes to get the car to cool properly.
Thanks again

Unreal

Can't have a notched full size radiator. If you notch it, then you can't get any flow through those top tubes.

Those fans suck, start with replacing them.

Put a new condensor or clean the hell out of your current one.

Also check timing, I've seen too many cars overheat from timing tables.

Pekka_Perkeles

Interesting.

Lazy tunes, as so often.

schpenxel

It's never the tune

0Billy@MTI

I have to agree with what "Unreal" wrote above this post.

Can you take some pictures of your custom shrouding, its possible that could be causing more of the problem than its helping. Have you tried running around with out it?

Getting rid of that eoc is a must for both the cooling of your radiator and your engine oil. Get a dedicated oil cooler. Like he said above, I haven't ever sen a radiator with a notch that was still able to flow around the notch.

In my opinion having a radiator that cools and having to sacrifice a little on the blower because of the inlet is much better than the opposite. IMO

realcanuk

Said it 1000 times... stock shroud modified to fit does a a great job.