Tech

I had a high RPM 1-2 shift issue and chattering on my RXT after 5k miles. I pulled the driveline to install an RPM trans, new slave and HOPED I could find something wrong with my RXT but alas.. everything checks out on it. Installed height is perfect. Slave checks out 0.170".

I want to put the thing back together this weekend, but I'm unsure what to do about the clutch. I hate that it chatters.. but so do all other clutches that hold 800+ HP. Both of my RPS organic clutches chattered, a good friends RST chattered and my RXT chatters. I'm convinced they all chatter. Different manufacturers. Different installers. Different clutch materials. All chatter. If yours doesn't, you may have learned to drive around it. Drive your car in stop and go traffic without launching at 2500 RPMs. It'll shudder.

I have already replaced the master with the latest OEM design. As I mentioned, I'm going to replace the slave and trans.. so the only two relevant parts are the pilot bearing and clutch. Should I shove this RXT back in and live with the chatter, because they all do, or put a Mantic in it? Monster can't get me a clutch by Friday.

silvrhand

I have the same issue with the Centerforce DYAD - dual disc setup.. stock clutch feel but the chatter is there.

The other thing that drives me crazy is the engagement point for my clutch moved way up and the clutch is not adjustable... ugh..

inspector12

That's weird about your DYAD, I'm guessing cause they changed the disc design that it chatters. Mine is perfect, but I've installed two others and one of the chatters like your describing. I have two friends with RXT's and there's didn't chatter. Not sure if its luck or there is some manufacturing thing that causes the inconsistency with these two clutches.

neverstop

my mantic has zero chatter and is way smoother than my RXT ever was. RXT would not hold even one dyno pull at 870whp either on my setup. replaced with mantic and has been holding 907/860 at the tires for a few thousand miles and three 1/2 mile events with zero issues. i have the triple but Unreal on here had the twin disc and i believe it held >1k whp for a long time. My guess is the RXT just has tons of inconsistencies when manufactured and so they work fine on some guys cars and work horrible on others.

i drive mine in traffic all the time and slipping at 2500 rpm or lower and perfectly smooth. they aren't cheap but given how hard it is to pull the driveline i think it's worth it to spend more and get it right.

Tech

*Some* Mantics chatter too, I'm afraid. FWIW, Mantic isn't cheaper than Mcleod when you add the bleeder and slave. It was never about the cost of the clutch.

chpmnsws6

I'll vouch for Tech on this. Both local performance shops throw tons of rst/rxt clutches in every LS based car they have.

0SNL/MonsterClutchCo

Our Monster LT1-S triple doesn't chatter, but our units are built to order. However if you need one by this weekend, I may be able to get one out ASAP, if you want to overnight it to have it in time.

If so give us a shout and ask for Jacob, he will take care of you.
817-750-2000.

Tech

Bought a Monster LT1-S triple. Thanks for getting it out quickly @SNL/MonsterClutchCo

helga203

How's the pedal feel?? Much stiffer than stock??

Tech

I'll be able to tell ya in a few days depending on weather.

timvan

Completely Happy with my Monster and the customer service from Steve is the best in the business, hands down!

Pitufina

I installed an LT1-S triple in mine. Still trying to break it in since my work comute is only 11 mostly highway miles miles each way. Drives like stock and the pedal is lighter IMO. If you release it a little too fast you know it means business.
I had a Mcleod RXT prior to that didnt last me but 1 season with less than 25 passes at the track. So the judge is still out there for the Monster once fully broken in.

Tech

Mine is in and the car is together but I couldn't drive it with all of the rain. I've read elsewhere that the LT1 clutches dont need a normal break in, but I've meant to ask Steve about it.

Turbo-Geist

Sorry to hear about your issues, but it sounds like you've turned the page and are moving forward. I had a similar issue with my RXT 1200. I don't remember much chatter, but had issues with the 1-2 shift and then after the last pass at the track, it wouldn't go into any gear. Upon a tear down inspection, I found the clearance between the disks wasn't within spec and the distance from the face of the crank to the clutch fingers was also not correct. The clutch is on its way back to McLeod for a factory inspection.

Pitufina

Steve suggested a break in period. Maybe because I have a small vibration that could be the dics not fully coupling? Anyways still driving around but barely any stop and go. So I'll wait until is over 500 miles and if the vibration doesnt get better I will be beyond pissed. The reason I got the triple was mostly for longevity and not having to get back into the clutch change PITA that it is

Unreal

Are you sure it is the clutch? DS, couplers, etc etc etc can all cause vibration.

Pitufina

I remember the stack height on mine was on the high end but worked great for the relatively short period. The disks looked fairly good, but but
had lot of hot spots on the flywheel and the face of the pressure plate. I have a feeling the pressure plate lost its clamping force maybe due to the stack getting out of spec and why it started to slip.

Pitufina

It didnt vibrate before I pulled apart. My car has 40k miles. That doesnt mean a lot when it comes to failing parts but it was silky smooth with the rxt.

Tech

When do you notice the vibration? Haven't road tested the car yet but I have let it idle and I've pulled it in/out of a garage. Car comes home tomorrow.

Pitufina

Mostly on the shifter. It seems to be between 900 to 2,000 rpms with around 2k being the worst. It's not an insane vibration that will rattle your brain or the whole car for that matter but it's there.
I have thought that it could be the engine since I can hear and feel a slight intermittent stumble on idle or while cruising. I visually checked the spark plugs and wires with an ohm meter and they seem fine. I have some spark plugs on order just in case. Also checked for codes and scanned it with hpt. I found a couple of exhaust leaks which I took care of yesterday. I'm going to continue monitoring the vibration to see if I can isolate it.