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A&A inlet has made 1000+ time and time again, so saying it is the problem at 730rwhp is a joke.
I wouldn't run a cut down radiator unless it is a race car, you want to pull the a/c, or you live somewhere where it never gets hot.
Belt issue could easily be 300+rwhp. It is typically the limiting factor on big blower setups. I fought belt stuff for years, and have $4k+ just into belt crap.
i live in south louisiana so a/c is a must. i already have some heat issues. i will pick up the A&A direct drive and see what happens from there. unless you guys have better ideas?
Start there. Once you get into the 1000-1100rwhp range, if you want to get more, and don't want to just pull the inlet for race events, then you can look at options that have a lot of downsides, but for now there is no reason to go there.
i ordered one last night after breaking another belt. It seem to hold up well when i was putt putting around and went to gas station. even got out at gas station and didnt show any signs of tearing/cutting. I then made a small hit and ran it out 1-3rd and heard it break
belt issues can drive you crazy but only way is with properly calibrated laser tool. read this and you'll be g2g. belt issues that bad could easily be costing you 200-300+ whp
Dayco also makes an alignment tool that I really like. It's puts out a line instead of a single dot so you can see if pullies are angled wrong (my alternator was). Still a PITA to use on a C6, I ended up taping the switch "on" and having to use zip ties and whatever else I could find to hold it in place, but ultimately it clearly showed me what was wrong on mine
My alternator was way off and supercharger pulley was also off. Get that issue ironed out first..
first problem found to the belt shreading/slipping.
Alt pulley way off. building a shim to get ribs lined back up
Your alternator pulley may be misaligned, but the way you're looking at it will not help you determine if it is. Each pulley sits on its respective part and in order to prove they're misaligned based on what you have pictured, you would first have to prove that the face of the alternator and blower are on the same exact plane, which they are not.
Everything references the crankshaft balancer pulley. To best prove any misalignment, you need to properly calibrate whatever tool you're using and then measure the deviation of each component relative to the crank pulley and then determine if there is any tilt in the part. To check alignment, go from the crank to the part. Yes, you may have to remove things between the crank and the part to clear the path in order to take your measurements.
Next, to determine if there is any tilt in the part, you can measure from the part back to the crank. For instance, (this is assuming you properly calibrated your laser) if you measure it dead on from the crank looking to the blower and then look from the blower back to the crank and it's off a couple of ribs, then your blower bracket is tilted. If you wish to further prove it, you can reference the cylinder head. Take the blower out and then one of the water pump bolts out and use a depth micrometer to measure the distance to head. You can also use the back end of a dial caliper or any legitimate measuring device that will fit into the hole. It's important to keep the tool square to the bracket surface while taking the measurement. Take the measurement a few extra times if you're unsure. The shortest distance will be the most square measurement reading. Then drill a small hole in the bracket across from the top of the cylinder head and measure the distance from the bracket surface to the head again. If the measurements between the lower and upper two holes are any different, then your bracket is tilted. To adjust this tilt, you can carefully remove material from the water pump tensioner ears or you can add shims, based on which direction you need to go.
I hope this helps.
Bret
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; 08-28-2017 at 02:43 PM.
well good news, laser and A&A new direct drive kit came in. PS pulley was out .097" so i got it true. Check entire sc side and it was good. Put new DD kit on (very sweet new kit they have made not relying on AC belt).
Put about 100 sporty miles on it yesterday with no belt breakage and car ran good. Need to go back to tuner now bc car pulled power very hard in upper rpms im assuming from making much more boost now that no belt slippage/breakage.
car hold temps well if just driving normal 210ish at 94F high humidity louisiana weather. after making some back to back pulls quickly jumps to 225-230 seen as high as 232 for little bit. cut ac off and knock it back down some. this is stock rad/fan and a 160 thermo
Want to grab dinner next week? Not sure how far you are from New Orleans. I'll be at the Marriot all week in New Orleans. Fly in Monday, fly back Friday, so free Tues-Thursday night if you want to grab a bite.
finally got all the kinks worked out and car running good. Fine tuning was done for this round of mods. Still running stock cooling system and old style A&A dongle with filter (believed this maybe holding me back quiet a bit. 93 pump gas spraying 100% meth. the first one was with the non direct drive setup/belt slipping.
08-21-2017, 11:57 PM
