ECS-1500, Need head unit advice. Rebuild or upgrade
#22
Team Owner
Mine was done in 3 days.
#23
I went through a similar situation with my last car and set up. 1500SL over spun for a few thousand miles and it ate itself. Sent off to Vortech for rebuild ($1450) slowed it down ... and it ate the bearings again in under 1500 miles! Vortech offered me the 2200 HD for $900 and I took the offer (no longer trusted the old 1500 unit).
Since I had the 2200 and my car already had an ERL 416 - why not go for broke, I thought. So I ordered A&A new direct drive set up and balanced combo. Never got to run any of it though. My house was in a fire and I lost the car in the fire. Life is almost back to normal (post fire) and I've got a new car and all the go fast parts, that I never got to use.
So like you, I'm wanting less than 800 (725-750 would be nice) but unsure if I should use the 2200 or spend $2600 on a new 1500SL????
Since I had the 2200 and my car already had an ERL 416 - why not go for broke, I thought. So I ordered A&A new direct drive set up and balanced combo. Never got to run any of it though. My house was in a fire and I lost the car in the fire. Life is almost back to normal (post fire) and I've got a new car and all the go fast parts, that I never got to use.
So like you, I'm wanting less than 800 (725-750 would be nice) but unsure if I should use the 2200 or spend $2600 on a new 1500SL????
Glad that you have a new project though. Please make sure that you do a thread on the build.
#24
#25
Racer
I can't say it was a good rebuild, because even after slowing the Blower down to below 51K rpm - it ate itself in <2k miles.
I'm just seeing this. Sorry to hear about the fire man. That must've hurt, because I know you put a lot of money and work into that car. Didn't you move houses at one point too? Was it the new house that was burned, then? Damn, that sucks.
Glad that you have a new project though. Please make sure that you do a thread on the build.
Glad that you have a new project though. Please make sure that you do a thread on the build.
Car, bike, tools - anything in the garage was a total lost.
The house has come along way in the 9 weeks since the fire (about 70% complete) and we should be back into it before August.
I'll definitely make a build thread once I get to wrenching again
Exactly
They took 2 weeks to even open my Blower up, once they had received it. It took a week post that for them to call and tell me what the damage was and how much the rebuild would be. It was 2 weeks for the rebuild to be completed and another week for return shipping.
If another dies, I'm sending it to you and have you send it to Paxton on my behalf
#26
Team Owner
I'm sure it depends on backlog and time of year/etc. I got in at a good time.
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
They emailed me Thursday, Said it was apart, Needs the full rebuild. My cases and wheels are good so just all internal parts as the gears ate the oil sling. I think it should ship out Monday or Tuesday. I have pulleys to slow it down. Hope to have it back before next weekend.
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Good news. They shipped it out Monday and I will have it Friday. All new internal parts. Now I need to select the correct pulley.
First set up was set up from ECS kit, out of box with restricter. Put 9,000 miles on it:
Stock crank 7.32 i think. (LS7) 3.43 blower pulley 7,000rpm R/line =53,779 blower speed
My set up last year was: No restictor, put about 3,000 mileson it.
10% over crank with 3.4 blower pulley, 7,000rpm R/line =59,738 blower speed
This year set up was same as above but lowered Rev limiter to 6,700 , due to slip or just out of steam. This put the blower at 57,178 (Still a bit to high)
Over spinning it that much is what did it in. I don't want it to die again. It makes 14.5lbs now.
I have 2 pulleys, 3.6 and a 3.8 What would be my best options and what boost do you think it will make on each pulley
3.8 at 7,000 R/line would be 53,450 (just under were it was with the stock set up)
3.4 at 6,700 R/line would be 54,000
3.4 at 7,000 R/line would be 56,420 and this may be a bit over the acceptable range.
3.75 pulley would be ideal but I cant find one. At 7,000 RPM this would be 54,163
Should I just make my own pulley?
Car is set for tune adjustments to compensate for loss of boost, and hopefully loss of added heat as well.
Not sure if this would fit
http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/4pfk036-375.html
First set up was set up from ECS kit, out of box with restricter. Put 9,000 miles on it:
Stock crank 7.32 i think. (LS7) 3.43 blower pulley 7,000rpm R/line =53,779 blower speed
My set up last year was: No restictor, put about 3,000 mileson it.
10% over crank with 3.4 blower pulley, 7,000rpm R/line =59,738 blower speed
This year set up was same as above but lowered Rev limiter to 6,700 , due to slip or just out of steam. This put the blower at 57,178 (Still a bit to high)
Over spinning it that much is what did it in. I don't want it to die again. It makes 14.5lbs now.
I have 2 pulleys, 3.6 and a 3.8 What would be my best options and what boost do you think it will make on each pulley
3.8 at 7,000 R/line would be 53,450 (just under were it was with the stock set up)
3.4 at 6,700 R/line would be 54,000
3.4 at 7,000 R/line would be 56,420 and this may be a bit over the acceptable range.
3.75 pulley would be ideal but I cant find one. At 7,000 RPM this would be 54,163
Should I just make my own pulley?
Car is set for tune adjustments to compensate for loss of boost, and hopefully loss of added heat as well.
Not sure if this would fit
http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/4pfk036-375.html
Last edited by GeneSch; 06-13-2017 at 10:09 PM.
#31
Drifting
I believe the Vortech pullies are interchangeable with the 1500 having the same key way and shaft diameter, but not larger Paxton head units. If so, Vortech makes a 3.7" pulley.
#32
Maybe offer to swap the unit for a different one (same version) for a small price immediately after a tear down (to determine cost to put it back on the shelf)
#33
Burning Brakes
Didn't see anything on that other thread where you were putting bearings in and thought you were up and running....sorry to hear it's going to cost you for a rebuild.
You mentioned it's a street car and not interested in 800hp which I agree is useless on the street and not worth the risk or additional problems running at that level. IMO you will never "feel" the difference between a 3.8 and 3.7 on the street, sure you may see .2 of your ET but those benefits are only above 6000 and pushing it hard. You also might be able to increase spark with lower boost levels and get some of that power back if you really want it.
Running the 3.8 will also keep the thing near the recommended limits and you'll gain confidence in the setup faster once it's together. If you get bored with it, throw the 3.6 on it.
EDIT: Besides all that, if it breaks again with the 3.8 at least you'll know it wasn't because you were pushing it too hard and have more ammo for a big discount on the 2200
GL
You mentioned it's a street car and not interested in 800hp which I agree is useless on the street and not worth the risk or additional problems running at that level. IMO you will never "feel" the difference between a 3.8 and 3.7 on the street, sure you may see .2 of your ET but those benefits are only above 6000 and pushing it hard. You also might be able to increase spark with lower boost levels and get some of that power back if you really want it.
Running the 3.8 will also keep the thing near the recommended limits and you'll gain confidence in the setup faster once it's together. If you get bored with it, throw the 3.6 on it.
EDIT: Besides all that, if it breaks again with the 3.8 at least you'll know it wasn't because you were pushing it too hard and have more ammo for a big discount on the 2200
GL
Last edited by NJ_phil; 06-14-2017 at 05:17 PM.
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Didn't see anything on that other thread where you were putting bearings in and thought you were up and running....sorry to hear it's going to cost you for a rebuild.
You mentioned it's a street car and not interested in 800hp which I agree is useless on the street and not worth the risk or additional problems running at that level. IMO you will never "feel" the difference between a 3.8 and 3.7 on the street, sure you may see .2 of your ET but those benefits are only above 6000 and pushing it hard. You also might be able to increase spark with lower boost levels and get some of that power back if you really want it.
Running the 3.8 will also keep the thing near the recommended limits and you'll gain confidence in the setup faster once it's together. If you get bored with it, throw the 3.6 on it.
EDIT: Besides all that, if it breaks again with the 3.8 at least you'll know it wasn't because you were pushing it too hard and have more ammo for a big discount on the 2200
GL
You mentioned it's a street car and not interested in 800hp which I agree is useless on the street and not worth the risk or additional problems running at that level. IMO you will never "feel" the difference between a 3.8 and 3.7 on the street, sure you may see .2 of your ET but those benefits are only above 6000 and pushing it hard. You also might be able to increase spark with lower boost levels and get some of that power back if you really want it.
Running the 3.8 will also keep the thing near the recommended limits and you'll gain confidence in the setup faster once it's together. If you get bored with it, throw the 3.6 on it.
EDIT: Besides all that, if it breaks again with the 3.8 at least you'll know it wasn't because you were pushing it too hard and have more ammo for a big discount on the 2200
GL
Very good points with the 3.8 vs 3.6. And I have both. I will start with the 3.8 and I can test it on the current tune to see boost level.
Last edited by GeneSch; 06-14-2017 at 07:15 PM.
#35
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
the blower sounds great. The 3.8 vested 8-8.5 lbs of boost. Not enough so I'm going to put the 3.6 on and give it a test.
I have to pull the front cover off as I have a leak some place around the pan/block or balancer. I can't put up with an oil leak so I'm going to pull it apart.
I have to pull the front cover off as I have a leak some place around the pan/block or balancer. I can't put up with an oil leak so I'm going to pull it apart.
Last edited by GeneSch; 06-20-2017 at 09:27 PM.