Ant-Man

Please nitpick it, I want to run a secondary pump(in addition to the stock one) on a hobbs much like most of the systems ecs, a&a and upp has. I've been searching but didn't see much on an FPR before or after the fuel rail.

My only thing is if you run the fuel straight into the rail in addition to the stock feed, and put an FPR after the rail, wouldn't the two FPRs work against each other and possibly mess something up?

Also since the taps are in the bottom of the tank, and I'm not doing 1/2 mile runs is there any need for a surge tank? I T it back into the feed line as well as the tank to *try* and prevent surges if it's even a possibility..

Unreal

Just order the ECS kit IMO.

Depending on setup regulator in tank will be blocked off.

neverstop

this. just having the customer support and not having to chase down random little fittings or whatever is worth the extra $200 you might be able to save cost vs. piecing it all together

i have ECS stage 2 with no surge tank and at 900whp with meth and zero issues. great system

EnviedC6

The problem is, they no longer advertise a system that you speak of. They only offer stage 1 and E85 stage 1 on their site. It would be nice to have a complete solution with return.

On a side note, have you looked into the DW 3.5L surge tank? You could run your stock fuel line as the feed for the tank. First DW pump turns on with factory pump; second DW pump comes on with hobbs switch. T the 2 pump feeds together and feed each rail. Run the other end of each rail to a FPR. FPR return to the surge tank and a surge tank return to the factory tank.

Look at the diagram below, but the factory fuel pump is what would be used for item 2 and the 2 supply pumps would be the ones mounted in the surge tank.

Unreal

Pick up the phone and call ECS.... it isn't hard.

mourat

You don't really need a surge tank with our cars unless you really run low on fuel. As long as you tap into the driver side tank, it's always kept full by design. The passenger tank is used up first to empty, then the driver side tank starts to get used.

So to give you some clarity, when you are actual at 1/2 tank. You are still full on the driver side. A 1/4 tank is half full on the driver side.

The odds of running dry on your feed is highly unlikely unless you're being ridiculous.

I run a return on my system with zero problems, boost referenced and I'm at 40 psi at idle or so, 45 psi atmospheric (vaccuum unhooked) and then 55 psi fuel pressure when in full 10 psi boost. Runs great.

I've ran the setup many different ways, bench tested different theories (most proven wrong).

I would not run the return back into the feed though, not sure how I like the idea of running hot fuel back to the feed. I'd rather see it mixed in with the fuel inside the tank. Also keep in mind that your FPR will return a lot of fuel at idle, and a lot of times that fuel is foamy (airated) when it comes back. You don't want that to end up on the inlet of your pump, it's not preferred.


My latest setup is the stock pump feeding the FPR, and the Walbro 450 comes on at 3 PSI boost or so. I have blocked off the FPR intank with LPE blockoff.

darknit

I did DIY dual in-tank 340s...

I bought most all my fuel system from Racetronix... They rate this setup as good to 1100hp on boost, 1400 naturally aspirated...

Dual 340 pumps, -8an Teflon feed, -6an Teflon return, 3/4" fuel rails, E85 regulator, their dual pump wiring kit with hobbs switch for 2nd pump, and a bunch of fittings...

Also installed dedicated motorsports flex fuel sensor...

Running 127lb(1300cc) injectors... last dyno was 722rwhp @ 9 psi and E57

This was very D.I.Y... You have to modify the factory plastic hanger a bit... Racetronix doesn't send any instructions or pictures... Some cussing involved, but definitely a lot cheaper then most other options out there... Dropping C6 fuel tanks is the biggest p.i.t.a. thing to do on these cars and I hope its a lot of years before I have to do it again...