Nitrous on cammed ls3 questions.
09-14-2017, 11:08 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Nitrous on cammed ls3 questions.
I have a 08 Corvette with a G6X3 cam with supporting drive train, long tube headers, stock heads and intake. I'm hooking up a nitrous wet kit going through a plate system. I usually mix 93 and 110 octane. My question is would I be able to support a 200 shot on a progressive? Thanks and any advice would be nice as well.
09-14-2017, 12:49 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm pulling from the fuel rail. I forgot to out that in. I'm not ready to do a standalone just yet. What could I pull off the fuel rail with that setup in the OP?
09-14-2017, 05:47 PM
#4
Former Vendor
I have a 08 Corvette with a G6X3 cam with supporting drive train, long tube headers, stock heads and intake. I'm hooking up a nitrous wet kit going through a plate system. I usually mix 93 and 110 octane. My question is would I be able to support a 200 shot on a progressive? Thanks and any advice would be nice as well.
You for sure need to have an upgraded fuel pump in tank such as a walbro for an example and have a 12v hot wire kit to it. pulling 200 of the rail is for sure a risky thing. The only time we consider this ok is if you have a double pumper in tank. Most people will look into a dedicated fuel supply when going 200 and above on the shot. The Benefits of a standalone outweigh the option of not having one. You will have the option to run a higher grade fuel in a dedicated such as c16 which will help you to reduce detonation in the combustion chamber and also running a higher octane fuel you can can a little more ignition timing in the ignition map and that will allow you to make more power. You also do not have to worry about pulling so much fuel off the rail that it leans the motor out and causes damage.
09-14-2017, 05:55 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
You for sure need to have an upgraded fuel pump in tank such as a walbro for an example and have a 12v hot wire kit to it. pulling 200 of the rail is for sure a risky thing. The only time we consider this ok is if you have a double pumper in tank. Most people will look into a dedicated fuel supply when going 200 and above on the shot. The Benefits of a standalone outweigh the option of not having one. You will have the option to run a higher grade fuel in a dedicated such as c16 which will help you to reduce detonation in the combustion chamber and also running a higher octane fuel you can can a little more ignition timing in the ignition map and that will allow you to make more power. You also do not have to worry about pulling so much fuel off the rail that it leans the motor out and causes damage.
09-14-2017, 06:21 PM
#6
What size jets are we taking about, because one man's "150 shot" is another's 175? If you're pulling off the rail you're going to get significant pressure drop at the hit in the rail, which means low pressure at the injectors as well. A sophisticated progressive controller can protect you somewhat there though. What controller are you using?
A standalone fuel supply is like a bottle heater. With small jetting, it's almost a luxury, but at a certain point, it becomes a necessity.
In any event, you should never start with the full whack. Why not start with 125 jetting and then dial it in from there? If you haven't run nitrous on the car yet, you probably should start there anyways. A true 200hp nitrous hit can probably produce ~300ft lbs of extra torque at lower RPMs. That could get sketchy in a hurry.
I've done the fuel rail supply myself with a "175 shot", in cammed L92 in my truck, but I believe the trucks have a larger capacity fuel pump, so I got away with it. I was only running 1/8 mile though. I wouldn't do it again or try that in the 1/4 though, to be honest.
BTW: I'm assuming that you realize that you also need to pull timing and run colder, preferably retracted tip, plugs? That would be advisable even with a 150 shot. And don't let anyone tell you that overly rich jetting is safer. That's old school thinking, and has pretty much been debunked now. Ignition timing and spark plug heat range are the two most important things, assuming that you have adequate fuel to begin with.
If you do go with a 150 shot, I would start by pulling at least 4-6* of timing and use plugs that are two heat ranges colder than stock. Lots of people will tell you that iridium plugs shouldn't be used, but I use to run the NGK TR7IXs and they worked for me.
Good luck. It should be a beast when you get on the button.
A standalone fuel supply is like a bottle heater. With small jetting, it's almost a luxury, but at a certain point, it becomes a necessity.
In any event, you should never start with the full whack. Why not start with 125 jetting and then dial it in from there? If you haven't run nitrous on the car yet, you probably should start there anyways. A true 200hp nitrous hit can probably produce ~300ft lbs of extra torque at lower RPMs. That could get sketchy in a hurry.
I've done the fuel rail supply myself with a "175 shot", in cammed L92 in my truck, but I believe the trucks have a larger capacity fuel pump, so I got away with it. I was only running 1/8 mile though. I wouldn't do it again or try that in the 1/4 though, to be honest.
BTW: I'm assuming that you realize that you also need to pull timing and run colder, preferably retracted tip, plugs? That would be advisable even with a 150 shot. And don't let anyone tell you that overly rich jetting is safer. That's old school thinking, and has pretty much been debunked now. Ignition timing and spark plug heat range are the two most important things, assuming that you have adequate fuel to begin with.
If you do go with a 150 shot, I would start by pulling at least 4-6* of timing and use plugs that are two heat ranges colder than stock. Lots of people will tell you that iridium plugs shouldn't be used, but I use to run the NGK TR7IXs and they worked for me.
Good luck. It should be a beast when you get on the button.
Last edited by CI GS; 09-14-2017 at 06:21 PM.
09-14-2017, 08:10 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
What size jets are we taking about, because one man's "150 shot" is another's 175? If you're pulling off the rail you're going to get significant pressure drop at the hit in the rail, which means low pressure at the injectors as well. A sophisticated progressive controller can protect you somewhat there though. What controller are you using?
A standalone fuel supply is like a bottle heater. With small jetting, it's almost a luxury, but at a certain point, it becomes a necessity.
In any event, you should never start with the full whack. Why not start with 125 jetting and then dial it in from there? If you haven't run nitrous on the car yet, you probably should start there anyways. A true 200hp nitrous hit can probably produce ~300ft lbs of extra torque at lower RPMs. That could get sketchy in a hurry.
I've done the fuel rail supply myself with a "175 shot", in cammed L92 in my truck, but I believe the trucks have a larger capacity fuel pump, so I got away with it. I was only running 1/8 mile though. I wouldn't do it again or try that in the 1/4 though, to be honest.
BTW: I'm assuming that you realize that you also need to pull timing and run colder, preferably retracted tip, plugs? That would be advisable even with a 150 shot. And don't let anyone tell you that overly rich jetting is safer. That's old school thinking, and has pretty much been debunked now. Ignition timing and spark plug heat range are the two most important things, assuming that you have adequate fuel to begin with.
If you do go with a 150 shot, I would start by pulling at least 4-6* of timing and use plugs that are two heat ranges colder than stock. Lots of people will tell you that iridium plugs shouldn't be used, but I use to run the NGK TR7IXs and they worked for me.
Good luck. It should be a beast when you get on the button.
A standalone fuel supply is like a bottle heater. With small jetting, it's almost a luxury, but at a certain point, it becomes a necessity.
In any event, you should never start with the full whack. Why not start with 125 jetting and then dial it in from there? If you haven't run nitrous on the car yet, you probably should start there anyways. A true 200hp nitrous hit can probably produce ~300ft lbs of extra torque at lower RPMs. That could get sketchy in a hurry.
I've done the fuel rail supply myself with a "175 shot", in cammed L92 in my truck, but I believe the trucks have a larger capacity fuel pump, so I got away with it. I was only running 1/8 mile though. I wouldn't do it again or try that in the 1/4 though, to be honest.
BTW: I'm assuming that you realize that you also need to pull timing and run colder, preferably retracted tip, plugs? That would be advisable even with a 150 shot. And don't let anyone tell you that overly rich jetting is safer. That's old school thinking, and has pretty much been debunked now. Ignition timing and spark plug heat range are the two most important things, assuming that you have adequate fuel to begin with.
If you do go with a 150 shot, I would start by pulling at least 4-6* of timing and use plugs that are two heat ranges colder than stock. Lots of people will tell you that iridium plugs shouldn't be used, but I use to run the NGK TR7IXs and they worked for me.
Good luck. It should be a beast when you get on the button.
09-14-2017, 09:29 PM
#8
Drifting
Thanks for this information. The jets I'm running are .060 and .028. I understand all the timing etc. The car will not be in any type of **** without being Dyno tuned first. I am using the LNC-2000 with a NOS mini progressive. I have not had this car on nitrous but I have had 2 other cars on nitrous a LT1 and LS1 both were fun. So I guess now I just need to stay safe and stop at the 150 shot off the rail until I get a standalone.
09-15-2017, 07:23 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I have 100 and 125 jets if you're running a plate kit and interested. Personally on a new system I like to work my way up and prove everything before I get crazy. I'm on an .082 nitrous jet right now but run a standalone. I ran into fueling issues pulling from the rail on a .057 on my setup. YMMV
09-15-2017, 11:57 AM
#12
Former Vendor
For a 150 shot we recommend using a Non projected tip plug and using a NGK BR7EF plug. An Iridium plug is not recommended. If there was an issue in the combustion chamber the plug (if using a NGK BR7EF plug) would wipe it self out. The iridium is so hard of a material you would for sure put a hole in the piston or damage it before the plug itself would melt.
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FNBADAZ06 (09-20-2017)
09-16-2017, 03:11 PM
#14
Drifting
You could. The benefit of the standalone is that you can rune C16 in the fuel cell and 93 in the tank. The added benefit of C16 in the standalone gives you plenty of cushion on 93. If you don't mind the labor on the in tank pump then you have a few options available to you.
09-16-2017, 03:27 PM
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
You could. The benefit of the standalone is that you can rune C16 in the fuel cell and 93 in the tank. The added benefit of C16 in the standalone gives you plenty of cushion on 93. If you don't mind the labor on the in tank pump then you have a few options available to you.
05-05-2018, 08:29 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
About to go standalone with a 250 to 300 shot. Anyone done this with stock clutch and 18in street radials? It will still be on the progressive system. Also could I expect much more out of the 150 shot it's on now? Should I do a 15in conversion?
05-14-2018, 01:59 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
im running a 100 shot with no fuel mods other than injectors for the hci part of the build
still have fuel left but not much, you better have a good eye on afr through out the pull on anything more than 100
07-01-2018, 09:21 PM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Alright guys well I'm bored with the 150 shot. Thinking of using it to a 250 - 350 shot. I upgraded to a standalone with c16, progressive and timing box. Anyone done this big of shot?