???

there is a company that makes a front k membership for these cars. one of the YouTube guys a watch just put one in a c5. says it knocks off a 100 lbs and gives more room. may help with the pipes clearance on this kit.

Unreal

There is a few, but they are race car only parts, and won't hold up to street use. Racks/rods/etc are made for skinnies and drag/straight line only stuff.

g23crawler

I will be curious to see what the boost curve looks like on the dyno, its kinda hard to tell how steady it holds when making pulls on the street. Unfortuantly updates will be slow for awhile, winter finally hit here so driving season wont start up again till late march/april. I will be putting on a MM catch can, A1000 external pump, harness bar with 5 point, new tires, and a turbowerx scavenger pump this winter(I have most everything already). Some other things I have yet to decide on are ceramic coating everything, tial gates, trans cooler, full cage, torque convertor, built trans, racing seats etc.. Going to try and only speend money on the neccesities this winter as I am trying to save up for a new truck & trailer for next season.

Kingtal0n

dyno thoughts (dyno'd 100~ cars)
Every dyno has a brake and the dyno brake can be used to alter the boost curve.
Furthermore rate of change in each gear will also alter boost curve. For example 1st vs 6th gear will look completely different. Max boost is always slowest rate of change.
i.e. if you put the car in say 4th at 3000rpm, then floor it and hit the dyno brake, RPM will drop to 2500~ while boost climbs to 20~psi. then let go of the brake and begin recording from 2500rpm and 20psi of boost for example is possible.
It won't ever be an accurate representation of the 'street boost curve' because the 'weight' of the dyno roller (including any dyno braking) is a factor. And each gear has it's own curve on top of that.

car thoughts
A1000's are noisy and unreliable. Many at 1krwhp use 3x walbro 450's over A1000.
Skip the cage, if the car needs support there are other ways, cage can be dangerous on the street
Avoid catch cans. A catch can is for an engine that needs a rebuild already because it is blowing oil or has poor baffles. Instead, use proper PCV route to help oil stay inside the engine.
ceramic coating is great, but expensive, and can be damaged by rough handling and poor installation location. I'd only ceramic coat once every piece of plumbing has been sorted, perfected, reliably supported, permanent, etc...
Torque converter is the heart of any build, as or more important than the engine. Make sure you only use the highest quality unit (like 'Yank') 9.5" lockup
built trans is a tenuous grip, potentially $3000~ down the drain over normal driving abuse is frequently seen. Then they try another and another, until finally...
Avoid 4l60e and go for the 4l80e, even a stock 4l80e w/ shift kit > 4l60e in majority of applications. Otherwise.... six speed....

g23crawler

I already have one 450 in tank and im not going to drop the tank and spend $1,500 on a dual intank when I already have everything for an external setup. I know the A1000 can have reliability issues, running dual aem 380's or a bosch 044 have crossed my mind too. I think a single 380 will still get me to my 800hp goal. As far as a cage I dont think I will have much of a choice once the track kicks me out for not having one. Around here I think anything under a 10sec needs a 4 point. I have no idea what my car would run, but I think a 3200lbs car with 800hp should be high 9 low 10 car. And not really sure what a 4L60/80 has to do with my build as these cars never came with one. It has the 6L80E, Im trying to wait to drop the tranny and build it the same time I put a torque convertor in. But thats a 5K bill right there.

GaragedLS2

How are the underhood temps and ECT's after running the car for a bit, Crawler? I have an aftermarket radiator but I dont have anything wrapped/coated to keep temps down aside from my starter. I still have yet to run the car for more than maybe 15 minutes total so I cant really gauge that yet. It is a bit concerning to me, though, if i I have to be honest. I also have a vented hood so I'm hoping the radiator and hood offer something in the aid of cooling. My car is strictly a street car so I'd like to make sure I can sustain hotter southern cali days w/o issue.

GaragedLS2

For me removing the top wastegates offered much more than just less crap to worry about. It freed up a ton of space for me to be able to mount my catch can, my fuel pressure regulator, reduce heat and it looks quite a bit better without those huge gates sitting up in the way. Real estate is very limited in that bay and 2 less gates and their massive accompanying dump tubes made a huge difference for me.

g23crawler

I think we're going to have problems in the summer. Im around 220 in 60-70 degree weather, oil temps have got to 260 in me before( after a good night of beating on it). Im all stock when it comes to cooling, ceramic coating is expensive but Id rather do it now in the winter when im bored vs summer. Mine is wrapped but not very well, it was a pain trying to wrap the headers and you cant use a turbo blanket with their custom housings.

GaragedLS2

So it looks like some type of heat shielding will be required as well as a nice oil cooler. I kinda figured that would be the case. I think with any turbo 'vette that would be likely though. That was the big plus to the rear-mount turbo's. I kept my ECT's as though the car was stock. Probably not a bad idea to have an oil cooler on a modded car regardless.

g23crawler

Last time I checked it was $400-500 to coat my headers and turbine housings. Ill probably end up doing that this winter, I hear to many horror stories on wrapped headers catching fire. It would be a good time to check plug and wires too.

GaragedLS2

Ive heard of some good coatings out there like swain, cerakote, etc. I know some of them coat the inside and outside of the pipes. I'm sure any of the top providers for these types of coatings would suffice. I already burned my 02 extension and luckily decided to buy some sleeves for the ignition wires but thats only because i moved mine to inside the fenders. Those exhaust manifolds get really hot, really quick I learned haha. I'm thinking I may run some type of sleeve over my fuel lines as well since theyre awfully close to those hot manifolds.

Kingtal0n

In my daily driver application I took infrared thermometer recordings all over the engine bay and engine, and found the 'hot spots', then implemented shields wherever necessary. The shields and wrap tend to hold the heat in the exhaust system, so it becomes just as important to monitor EGT and then do something about it to protect the hardware (turbo/manifold have maximum temperatures, for example most turbines have a max EGT inlet temp by design of about 1380*F). In my case, 100% water injection will be used whenever EGT goes over 1300*F preturbine, to keep it in the 1200's. I also have a small $1 pump that provides open loop liquid water cooling to the various 'hot spots' around the car, in my case it is the front intake pipe where the iat sensor is, the balancer may get a drip off that (balancer staying cool is important, hot exhaust crossover runs past it), and the fender of the car next to the turbo even behind the shields can hit 300*F. The engine was going 300*F on the valve covers before shielding and now it stays 220*F like it should (the temp of oil). I made a little video if you are interested of most of the shielding I added.

edit for guy below, your pm box is full

schpenxel

I'd be interested in seeing it.

g23crawler

MTBSully

Intake looks awesome. Do you do your own welding? What kind of welder are you using?

g23crawler

I try to do all my own, the pie cuts are mine but my buddy did the maf flange and my valve cover. You can definitely tell the difference in our skill set lol. He welds for a living, I just try to do it enough I dont forget how too. I run a everlast 200dx.

Shortpersonbk

Looking through the thread I cant seem to find it what injectors are you using? I see you have a 08 so you have the older style ecu that is more limited on injector size.

g23crawler

Never heard of the ecu being limited, I run FID 1200cc. Will probably step up to 1700's this next year. Many people running 1700-2000's with no issues.
I noticed on your thread you said something about 210's? Im assuming you're talking about Bosch 210's, a couple years ago there wasn't much data on them so people were not able to get them to run correctly. There's enough info on the sloppy page with injector data for those you should be able to use them. Most people have problems tuning them to idle correctly because they are so big, that's the reason I didn't go with them.

Shortpersonbk

Yeah I guess the pre 2010 ecus can only handle 65lb injectors and with some creative scaling you can get 120 ish out of them after that they are tapped out looks like your just within that range. It was something I just learned last week ish when talking to the guy who will most likely be doing the shake down tune. I plan on pulling the trigger on the ecu tonight just didnt know if you ran into a similar thing.

Yeah i do not expect the best idle quality out of the 210s but that could be an experience thing also the guys who are tuning their own stuff/using these cheaper injetors are most likely are not the same guys willing to travel hours to a tuner that is booked months out ect.

g23crawler

You are right, I texted my tuner (Chad at "the shop inc") and he said the ecu can handle it but the operating system caps at 63lb/hr. But he also said there's no issue with going to a bigger 1700 or 2000 and he would just re-scale them to match the bigger injector. My current tune is scaled at 127, and thats a very conservative tune as I ran out of fuel around 5300rpm.
Iv acutally tossed around the idea of going pro efi too lol