Florida_1959

Never owned anything FI other than a VW so I'm looking for those experts to help me. I have a 2012 Centennial with Dry sump. Ive started to look at FI since it seems the best HP/$ modification. But its overwhelming. I don't at this point want to pull the motor and go thru all the internals so I ask, is it worth it to just go FI with stock heads and cam? I have B&B LTH and hi flow cats now with a custom program (and lifetime free reprogramming). Also such wide a variance in price it floors me. Ive had quotes for 13K which seems pretty high but not sure what it should be. Im leaning towards the centrifugal for the more controllable power curve instead of the immediate slam of a PD unit. But since Im a rookie, Im trying to learn, hoping the experts can school me.
thanks

Patriot Six

A&A or ECS kit is the way to go for a centri unit and is a lot cheaper than what you were quoted. Great power, driveability, and customer service from either of them.

DOUG @ ECS

Feel free to call us anytime to discuss in length.

ITSQUIK

I would suggest a call to Andy at A&A Corvette.

I remember when I was first interested in supercharging. He made it all make sense and was the furthest thing from being pushy. He actually listened to what I was trying to accomplish and made a recommendation from there.

I have bought to kits from him. An Si Trim for my C5 when it was stock and a Ti Trim when the motor was built. Both systems were awesome and made a lot of power. The biggest impact was when I first got “blown”. The ‘97 C5 makes 345HP stock. After the blower and tune it was like 535 at the tire. It drove super stock until you got on it. Once you did get on it, it was impossible not to smile.

It was only after I got the bug for bigger and better that I decided to build the motor and get the bigger blower. I certainly didn’t have to. The car was a joy the way it was.

You can supercharge your car and get a nice safe tune and not have to worry about it. Just drive the car and enjoy it.

The install and tune is very important too though. Make sure you really have a place you trust. Talk to guys who have had work done or cars tuned there before. A crappy tune can seriously mess your car up. Just because it has a blower doesn’t mean you have to build he motor. The tune is in my opinion the most important thing. That’s the variable. I know Andy’s systems are top notch. That’s why I bought it. The tune however if rushed through by someone who doesn’t really care or is just after the money, well that can and probably will be the death of your motor.

Also, since my C5 is gone and the Grand Sport is my new baby. If I do decide to go forces induction, it will be a Centrifigul blower from A&A.

Good luck to you!!

chpmnsws6

If you decide to look at a great condition used kit, I have one available. Pm me if serious.

LSX228R

I would highly recommend the A&A v3 ti supercharger kit with Arh long tubes. Also if you are comfortable using methanol injection there is a lot more power to be had.

BlindSpot

Highly recommend A&A. Very well designed drive system. Best in the business. Any/Josh provide excellent customer service.

Unreal

ECS and A&A make great kits. Can typically do them installed/tuned for $6500 or less, and make more than enough power.

Florida_1959

If I could come across a place to trust that would install one for that price I would write the check today. Im getting quotes no place near that. Installed on a GS with dry sump, best I have found is lowest 10K, highest in 13K.
If anyone knows of a trusted speed shop in South Florida, or anywhere in Florida or Ga, I would look into it.
thanks

typeav

Horsepower Sales in West Palm Beach
Redline Motorsports in Pompano Beach
Vengeance Racing in Georgia

You will not go wrong with either one of them I have try them all, quality service. There are others that you should stay far away but I will not mention unless you private msg me.

Centrifugal installation are around $2k and $400-$600 for tuning, root supercharger like Manugson is a little more expensive.

Redline Motorsports

Feel free to reach out to us if you are looking for clarification to the world of FI as related to the C6. For sure we have seen and done it all and what has come out of that is we know what works and what doesn't.

One thing we are very insistent on is education. A smart customer is much easier for us to work with and in turn the customer enjoys the process. This education is most based upon the facts of how these different systems work but also our professional opinions which has evolved from experience in this type of work.

I will tell you; we have been in South Florida for just over 5 years now and have seen how business is run as related to this industry. A laptop, a Craftman tool box and a box of stickers doesn't qualify as a legit performance facility. My shop is consistently visited by customers who thought they where saving money just to get sub par work....Its getting old but we can only do so much to promote our company on its brand strength. Unfortunately this also equates to cost which in our opinion matches the level of work and not more then that.

Thank you for the poster who recommended us and Vengeance as options. For sure we both have worked hard to grow our brands.

Hit me with a PM or at sales@redline-motorsports.net and see if we can help you get on track!

Happy New Year!

HT

Florida_1959

Thanks for all the great info. I do have a question because it seems to be the issue causing the increased pricing. With the dry sump im gathering that I need a new radiator to allow for the oil cooler to be run thru it? What ive read is that you have to relocate the oil cooler because you cant dump that much heat into the intercooler. also, trying not to do any drastic modifications that really butcher the car. Im a strict believer to not alter the car so much that it loses the ability to still be returned to stock. Nothing worse than having a special edition car, then butchering it up and it loses it value down the road. I like things that can be reversed if need be, without leaving the car chopped up.


thanks again for all the great tips and feedback
Im certain that I will be purchasing a system in January.

Tech

I can only speak for the A&A kit, but there were a couple of places where things needed to be trimmed. You are also pinning the crank with almost any kit, and that cannot be undone.

Florida_1959

Thank you. I figured the crank pin as no biggie. I was more concerned on cutting and grinding and modifying things that could not be set back eventually. Nothing worse than a vette that has been modified and changed so drastically to the point that it loses its collectability. Small parts like radiator shroud I can replace pretty easily with new parts, but grinding, cutting or trimming some parts there is just no going back. Im getting a lot of feedback, and leaning toward Pro charger. Anyone speak good or bad on the D-1SC?

Detoxx03

I love the D1SC. Ran one for years and it was great. Now I love the D1X on my car. So many people around here hate on ProCharger I don’t even bother bringing them up in the threads but I’ve had great success with my kit.

Husker C6

I have a Pro Charger P-1SC on my car and have had no problems with it. If I had it to do over again I would go with the D-1SC and helical cut gears. The D-1SC may only come with helical cut gears I am not sure? I will tell you it makes a lot of noise, not a supercharger whine noise but a really loud rattle. You will definitely notice it. They say the helical gears cut down on that noise. I dropped down a couple of pulley sizes and at 9 pounds of boost with methanol and headers am making right at 600RHP on a very drivable tune. Still am able to get 27 mpg on trips. They are a blast to drive. Good luck with whatever you decide. If you have any questions feel free to send me a message.

Tech

The installation instructions are available on the web for the kits recommended. You might flip through there to see where the trimming and cutting come in. The A&A kit requires trimming of the bottom of the bumper cover. That's not something you want to replace if you can avoid it. It's also in an area that only a trained eye would ever notice however (completely under the car).

If going back to stock was one of the primary factors in deciding the blower, I'd look at the Heartbeat. I think that only required drilling into some plastic that can easily be replaced.

Florida_1959

Well I was just about ready to pull the trigger then the proverbial monkey wrench gets tossed into the mix. This will be for the Florida, Texas bunch. I'm confused now on what upgrade is needed to the cooling system. One quote said I needed a high efficiency radiator to avoid overheating, one never mentioned needing any cooling system upgrade, other than both saying the 160 degree T-stat what is the real story. With the dry sump oil cooler up front, what is the real answer to cooling? I will not be tracking the car, but do want to be able to sometimes drive it like a regular car too. My concern is that Florida is always hot, and in the summer 85+ every day is common. Anyone from southern states that can give me some guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

grocerygetter

Get you a shop and trust their advice. You will hear all different kinds of answers on forums.

Tech

I needed a radiator for my dry sump car with an A&A kit. As some said above, find a reputable tuner amd have them install any of the kits recommended here.