C5 Pete

Good grief...

All I did was quote a guy asking about how this fab intake compares to an OEM style below 6500rpm.

Now, you guys are getting all defensive about this G intake and how it’s so awesome because it won’t blow apart.

News flash for you. Albert’s intake didn’t blow apart due to a steady state boost. If had, only the outer shell would have cracked. The runner was broken too. That, to me, shows some other event happened like a backfire.

Here’s another news flash. I’m not bashing that fabbed intake. I’m sure it works very well in certain applications. I’m just suggesting that with the constraints of the C5/C6 engine compartment, the only way to build something like that is to make the runners shorter than optimal. As a result, you have to compromise. Just like everything we do with our cars.

For a street driven car, (even a 1000hp car) that spends most of its time well below 6500rpm, the OEM style is better.

This thread is asking about what intake to use for the OP’s setup...

algZO6

sorry but i didn't have any sort of backfire. the log was clean up until the intake blew at 30 psi. i put a stock intake back on and it was fine. even ran an event without a problem (kept the boost down).

stevieturbo

There is absolutely no question, from pretty much every dyno test out there...that below 6500rpm any of these fabricated, short runner, whatever way you want to describe them will make less power and torque everywhere.

If you want improvements in the 6000rpm and upwards, ie, 7k, maybe 8k etc then these sorts of intakes come into their own

C5 Pete

Albert, you’ve been doing this a long time and I know you’ve been through a lot with your build and the changes over the years. Your setup is seriously badass.

But, I really think you’re wrong about what caused your intake to break. The runners are surrounded by constant boost pressure. That fact that they blew apart leads me to believe there was some other event such as a backfire.
OEM intakes have held up to 30psi over and over.

So, let’s say your intake was starting to fatigue... because obviously, you’ve put a crapload of passes on your car. It’s entirely possible that something happened inside your intake. Perhaps meth ignited. I don’t know, but I’m confident it wasn’t just blown apart due to 30lbs of boost.

Regardless, this thread isn’t about your intake. It’s about the best intake for 800hp.

stevieturbo

Many have handled more....but it doesnt mean they all will. The nature of the construction means there is a mode of failure where the sections are jointed together. Maybe some have better quality control than others, maybe a different production run etc etc.

But you're right, the vast majority would see no real value for money benefit from an aftermarket intake.
But some of them really do look ******* cool, which is a good enough reason to change too.

algZO6

well im not here to start a pissing match but i do know my car and know what happened. ive talked to quite a few big name shops and they said they have seem them blow past 25 psi, just hit or miss. i personally did not want to take that chance. what also sucked was trying to stop when the rpms were hanging about 3k. scary.

C5 Pete

Can’t argue with that.

Unreal

Strangely no one is arguing anything. If you are not turning big rpm, or big boost, everyone is saying stay stock intake.

I've seen plenty of fast intakes crack runners, etc without a backfire. So I don't buy the it had to be an intake. My intake slowly cracked from flexing/moving. Cracks kept growing and growing every pass. The stock intakes flex/move, including the runners.