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I have researched extensively and did not find mention of corrosion. Do you have some pictures of your friend's injectors that you can share with the community?
He had to stop using them a few years ago, so no. Although the damage happens internally so you wouldnt be able to see it
His was primarly a race car so would sit about, so perhaps a road car that seen more frequent use or also mixed use with gasoline may not suffer as bad.
Just google ID2000 E85 problems.
ID's new 2000's may not be the same, but pretty sure all the current cheap Bosch 2000's are the same as their old ID2000
I have the racetronix dual 340s in my car... last dyno was 722rwhp @ 9psi... now pullied to be able to make 15psi, unknow hp... I went with the -8an feed, -6an return, e85 regulator, their huge 3/4" fuel rails, and 7psi hobbs...
I'm a little pissed at racetronix, I had added a check valve to the order and they removed it and said it wasn't needed... of course their pumps aren't holding prime and i have to crank 2-3 times... now it will be a total pain to add check valve by tanks, but I eventually will...
I'm probably also gonna change the 7psi hobbs switch to a 4psi hobbs for 2nd pump...
I run 1300cc(127lb) fuel injector connection ethanol rated injectors... and have a dedicated motorsports ethanol sensor installed in the -6an return line... fuel pressure regulator set @ 60psi...
This is great info. I was on the fence about adding a check valve or not.
They tried to talk me into a 7psi hobb also but I opted for the 4psi.
I’m also less than thrilled with my racetronix experience so far. Took 36 days to get my pump and harness kit and I only live 4 hours from their facility. They also apparently don’t make a Hotwire kit for a z06 because their labels say “battery +” with 15’ of wire but obviously my battery is in the trunk.
This is great info. I was on the fence about adding a check valve or not.
They tried to talk me into a 7psi hobb also but I opted for the 4psi.
I’m also less than thrilled with my racetronix experience so far. Took 36 days to get my pump and harness kit and I only live 4 hours from their facility. They also apparently don’t make a Hotwire kit for a z06 because their labels say “battery +” with 15’ of wire but obviously my battery is in the trunk.
Their dual pump hotwire kit is definitely needed to run the 2 pumps because it comes with relays for the hobbs to switch the 2nd pump on... my hot wires I landed on the alternator, not the battery... the dual pump hot wire harness kit doesn't use any factory pump wiring harness anymore other then to trigger main pump relay...
Racetronix guy that answered the phone was definitely an arrogant dude; but the quality of their products is pretty high... My kit probably took 2 weeks to get...
I have the racetronix dual 340s in my car... last dyno was 722rwhp @ 9psi... now pullied to be able to make 15psi, unknow hp... I went with the -8an feed, -6an return, e85 regulator, their huge 3/4" fuel rails, and 7psi hobbs...
I'm a little pissed at racetronix, I had added a check valve to the order and they removed it and said it wasn't needed... of course their pumps aren't holding prime and i have to crank 2-3 times... now it will be a total pain to add check valve by tanks, but I eventually will...
I'm probably also gonna change the 7psi hobbs switch to a 4psi hobbs for 2nd pump...
I run 1300cc(127lb) fuel injector connection ethanol rated injectors... and have a dedicated motorsports ethanol sensor installed in the -6an return line... fuel pressure regulator set @ 60psi...
100% of the time the car cranked immediately prior to new fuel system...
now most the time it fires during 2nd cranking, occasionally takes a 3rd cranking...
cannot find a fuel leak when car is idling, and gauge never moves on fuel pressure regulator...
only thing I can think of is maybe, just maybe, a little air gets in at fuel injector o-rings after shutting car off; but most likely that these pumps don't hold prime...
Unreal, Are you saying i shouldn't use a check valve on my system? I purchased a vibrant check valve and currently have it planned for just before the filter near the rear tire but i don't want to add complexity if i don't need to.
Updates:
Basket is complete and back in the tank. I am not a fan of how stiff the corrugated hose is but i am not willing to risk using any other materials so it will have to work.
I also plan to bench test this entire system out of the car to ensure i have no leaks and the transfer system functions as intended. I started air under water testing my joints last night and found one fitting that would not seal. Replaced with a new fitting and now the return line holds 85psi with no bubbles.
I also had a minor setback with the used LS7 intake i bought. As you can see the #7 intake runner is torched. I spoke to the seller and he instantly returned my money and let me keep the intake bolts for free. He also confirmed that he blew his motor (#7 and #5). Thank you Mordeth for being a stand up guy!
I picked up another intake today and placed my final summit order (i hope). More progress to come this week...
Car was fully put back together on Saturday. We went to set base pressure with the regulator and i cant get more than 40 psi with both pumps running. Obviously i have a leak or something in the tanks.
My tuner scaled a quick tune for the 30 psi base pressure so we could get the car started. It felt good to hear it run again but the thought of pulling the tanks down again sucks.
I moved the 81 off the lift and drove the 2010 on. Hopefully having the car on a lift helps. Maybe the crossover internal tubes won't be stuck this time.
Any tips for things to look for would be greatly appreciated. The other weird issue was that i couldn't fill more than half tank. I am assuming i also have a vent issue.
I left the pressure fitting for the siphon jet pump disconnected in the passenger tank. Stupid mistake but i was able to fix another small leak while everything was out.
Bench tested the entire system and i am now able to make full pressure with one pump. Base pressure set to 43.5psi and the tanks will be going back in tonight.
At the same time i decided to add a MM catch can setup since i already had to replace the rear main seal once. While removing the jumper hose from intake to valley i noticed the hose had worn through and had a large hole. This jumper with check valve was installed by a shop when the blower was installed. I believe this is the reason for the blown seal but i have also debated with my friends if this could have caused some driveability/idle issues. It is unmetered air after the MAF but wont there always be unmetered air flowing into this port?
03-23-2018, 04:45 PM
