FeArZ

I'm running a ecs 1500 kit on a 08 c6. IW 10% 8 rib balancer, 3.8 head unit pulley on a 6 rib belt. Made 756/642. 5k miles later. Broke a water pump, Then spun the alternator bolt loose. Thinking the belt is too tight, but slips otherwise.

Want to do a flip drive/ direct drive setup. I sent an email to ECS about there Flip drive setup, but heard Cog belts can be troublesome to get right.

​​​​Wanting to get some feedback on different setups.

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gotjuice?

No issues with mine, Dallas Performance. 6 rib a/c conversion.

Patriot Six

I've got the new A&A secondary drive and it's been great.

Unreal

ECS uses Cartek Flip drive, and it isn't cogged. It is a nice system.

A&A has a nice system too.

Cartek comes with nice PS lines, A&A comes with autotensioner up top. Pick which option you like more.

DP was very nice, but isn't made anymore and is more like the Cartek setup.

A&A also has the new style one, with the stock style AC, but it requires a new damper, and is pricey, but just about the best you can get.

ECS cog mod works amazing, but because a few people had issues, they stopped doing it.

My setup is best of all 3. ECS cog mod to DP lower with A&A upper. If you don't mind spending a ton of money for the best stuff, you can attempt to copy mine and put together the best of all 3 kits.

Kryckter

A&A Setup here. Their flip/direct drive is amazing!

BT03mach-1

so what benefit is this "flip drive"? My blower broke and is at Paxton getting rebuilt so I was thinking about going 8 rib. The blower belt still turns the water pump correct?

FeArZ

Thanks for the feedback. I looked into it more last night and looks like a great kit.

Yeah, not trying to break the bank lol. I know the cog was troublesome, know when setup perfect its the end all be all setup.

Are you running the new style with the added 4 rib?

FeArZ

The belt comes off the blower then around the tensioner then rides against the left side if the water pump bell then onto the balancer.

algZO6

A&A with ECS cog here. 8 rib setup with 0 slip

Kryckter

No. Mine is the one that still runs the accessory from the A/C belt. It works good. I have a 8-rib dedicated for the blower. Max'd out F1X at 28# and no slip

wilburbill

I too broke the water pump pulley last week. I ordered the Cartek flip drive. I hope to receive it sometime next week. Seems there are quite a few that have had water pump pulley problems with superchargers. I had about 5000 miles on mine since I installed it.

Tech

I have the latest A&A setup. I don't have many miles on the car since I installed it, so I can't comment on how well it works. However, I can comment on the fit/finish and design...

The power steering line leaves much to be desired. In looking at the other kits, they may have the same problems with the power steering line though.

My upper radiator hose rubbed on my power steering reservoir. Blew another ~$250 buying upper radiator hoses and ultimately swapped to an early-style LS7 pump.

The 6 rib accessories are driven via a jackshaft that's spun by a 4 rib belt. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.. so I have concerns that the 4 rib belt could slip causing charging issues.

Unreal

Which is what experienced, until doing the cogged lower, and auto tensioner upper.

Patriot Six

Wouldn't a high output alternator fix this by producing more voltage at lower rpms? I just went that route due to going dual fans, but it could probably backstop the 4 rib issues, if they arise.

Unreal

Nope, if the pulley isn't turning, it isn't charging, and a HO alt can also be harder to spin causing even worse problems.

Patriot Six

Sure, if it's not turning at all. If it's slipping, it's probably just turning slower. Oh well, I needed the HO alt anyway for the fans. Luckily, I haven't seen voltage issues with the secondary drive.

WickdGS

I'm planning to go direct drive in the near future myself. Currently I'm running an A&A full 8 rib setup and after having numerous belt squeal issues I removed the IW balancer in favor of a 10 rib ATI balancer and haven't had a problem since. Obviously running A&A's secondary drive isn't possible for me anymore which only leaves me with a Cartek/HPE option. Is it possible to put a C5 a/c bracket with the extra idler on my C6 and will this be sufficient or is there anything else I can/should do?

neutron82

I have had both of a&a's secondary drives, I have logged 13.9-14v at redline consistently on their old design... it was on a c5 though so besides the tensioner I have an extra idler on the ac belt instead of just the tensioner alone like the c6... I switched it out to the newer one only because the belt would squeal at times when the ac was turned on (which does indicates slip) but when racing it would hold voltage no problem... the new design is really nice and takes all the load off the ac belt but it will require a new balancer or if you already have an innovators west balancer I believe they can either have it cut for their new drive or swap the shells out which would be cheaper than a completely new balancer... if you end up with an older design a&a, dallas performance, or cartek flip drive you should really consider using the c5 ac bracket

gotjuice?

Use the C5 a/c bracket and convert the a/c belt setup to the 6 rib. I have no issue of slippage and run wot in 5th up to 7100 rpm.

Blk 08 C6

A&A 2ndary drive here on a 8rib set up.running good. no problems no belt slip here.getting ready to pulley down and install thier dual holley pump setup.