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When does it make sense to go from an LS3 block to an LSA block?

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When does it make sense to go from an LS3 block to an LSA block?

 
Old 09-11-2018, 11:13 PM
  #21  
jobberone
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Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
Agreed with Stevie, LSX is a HORRIBLE idea.

Stock ls2 or ls3 block is great for <800-900hp.
If built properly the LS1-3 will be reliable at 12-14lbs of boost. After that I'd go to an iron block or the Dart Next aluminum block. They will be more reliable. You might get two years on 'low' boost with the LS1-3 with occasional blasts. If you want 800-1000rwhp then iron or the alum Dart. Then drivetrain and fuel changes. Then tire etc changes and you still aren't going to stick well on radial drags. The LSX weighs almost 230 lbs and the LS3 110.

Last edited by jobberone; 09-11-2018 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:50 PM
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I think I’ve proven that wrong.
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:28 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Detoxx03 View Post
I think Iíve proven that wrong.
If directed at me no I'm not wrong. I ran a LS1 at 12lbs for two years then lifted a head which I had done before. Those blocks are made for NA use and are thin walled. They won't take large studs. And the mains are not stout either. If you run it hard occasionally it will last awhile. If you want more reliability esp at higher boost pressures you need more. You can build an engine to make HP but will it barely finish the race or be streetable for a longer time? Will some engines last longer? Of course. But generally you need stouter to last longer esp at higher boost pressures.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:13 AM
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Comparing a LS1 and LS3 is no where near the same thing. I had a LS1 that lasted at 650 a while before I built it. The LS3 is a lot stronger than that.
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:00 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Detoxx03 View Post
I think Iíve proven that wrong.
I think plenty have proven it wrong lol.
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jobberone View Post
If directed at me no I'm not wrong. I ran a LS1 at 12lbs for two years then lifted a head which I had done before. Those blocks are made for NA use and are thin walled. They won't take large studs. And the mains are not stout either. If you run it hard occasionally it will last awhile. If you want more reliability esp at higher boost pressures you need more. You can build an engine to make HP but will it barely finish the race or be streetable for a longer time? Will some engines last longer? Of course. But generally you need stouter to last longer esp at higher boost pressures.

So you had a stock LS1 engine that lifted a head after 2 years use ? Would that come as a real shock ? Did the OP say he was going to use a stock engine ?

And who uses large studs in any LS motor ? Very few...they're all the base M11 ( LS9 aside )

Mains are perfectly fine to close to 4 figures albeit with ARP studs being sensible

So you are pretty much wrong on every level other than a totally stock LS1 motor is not a good idea for decent power/boost....but that isnt even remotely what the question or thread is about.

Last edited by stevieturbo; 09-12-2018 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:31 AM
  #27  
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Lingenfelter and Hennessey all put warranty on their 600+hp packages utilizing a SBE 6.2. They wouldn't warranty them if they didn't trust them at 600rwhp... You also have the camaro guys, silverado guys, ss guys, take a look at anyone of those 4 to 5 forums where gm put a 6.2 in from the factory and 90% of them are boosted with over 600hp at the wheels. LS3's are proven to be stout with a good tune.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:42 AM
  #28  
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The supercharger currently on the car is a Vortech V3 T-trim, which the factory says will support at most 800 hp. So for now, 800 hp is my limit. I've been looking at a couple of short blocks:

This one from Mast Motorsports:
And this one from Horsepower Research.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:42 AM
  #29  
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Is there anything wrong with your current block that it can't be used? If not, just put pistons and rods in and call it a day.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:59 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JetstreamGS View Post
Is there anything wrong with your current block that it can't be used? If not, just put pistons and rods in and call it a day.
The engine will not even rotate when we try to start it.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sstonebreaker View Post
The engine will not even rotate when we try to start it.
So what has actually happened ? That's first you mentioned the current motor is dead ?

Certainly doesnt mean the block could not be used, or possibly crankshaft...

Although it can be handy just to buy a complete motor as a simple swap
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
So what has actually happened ? That's first you mentioned the current motor is dead ?

Certainly doesnt mean the block could not be used, or possibly crankshaft...

Although it can be handy just to buy a complete motor as a simple swap
He posted pictures of oil on the ground after it hydro locked after going through some heavy rains
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:53 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
So what has actually happened ? That's first you mentioned the current motor is dead ?

Certainly doesnt mean the block could not be used, or possibly crankshaft...

Although it can be handy just to buy a complete motor as a simple swap
Sorry, I thought the picture in post #10 pretty much implied the motor is dead.

BTW, what's the smallest bore you can run LS2 heads on?
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
He posted pictures of oil on the ground after it hydro locked after going through some heavy rains
Missed that bit..

Best thing to do is get it apart and see where things are at present. But if a speedy repair is needed, then a new short motor makes sense.

If asking about a smaller bore.....that maybe implies you're thinking about 5.3's or something. Not a route I'd consider when you're used to the larger engine. It will feel lacklustre at lower rpm's and generally make less power for a given blower rpm and not sure if you could run your heads on one.
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:11 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
Missed that bit..

Best thing to do is get it apart and see where things are at present. But if a speedy repair is needed, then a new short motor makes sense.

If asking about a smaller bore.....that maybe implies you're thinking about 5.3's or something. Not a route I'd consider when you're used to the larger engine. It will feel lacklustre at lower rpm's and generally make less power for a given blower rpm and not sure if you could run your heads on one.
Actually, with a stroker crank and bored out to 3.905, the 5.3 has slightly more cubes than the stock LS2. I was just concerned that the LS2 valves might hit a 3.90 bore.

Last edited by sstonebreaker; 09-12-2018 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:38 PM
  #36  
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If you plan to keep the V3 blower then an LS3 is all you'll need.

Last edited by lt1z; 09-12-2018 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:11 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by sstonebreaker View Post
Actually, with a stroker crank and bored out to 3.905, the 5.3 has slightly more cubes than the stock LS2. I was just concerned that the LS2 valves might hit a 3.90 bore.
I would not be doing a stroker crank. nor would I waste time taking a 5.3 block out to 3.905 when you can just buy an LS3
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:15 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
I would not be doing a stroker crank. nor would I waste time taking a 5.3 block out to 3.905 when you can just buy an LS3
It's a matter of economics. All of the short blocks I'm looking at are about the same price. I'm not planning on road racing the car, at most autocrossing it a couple of times a year as well as taking it to the drag strip. So the LSA block with piston squirters has fallen by the wayside, since it's about $1,000 more.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:21 PM
  #39  
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And an LS3 based motor would be cheaper than an LSA. based motor...which would be cheaper than an LS9 based motor...etc etc..

So really doubt an LS3 based motor would be a huge difference in price between a 5.3 bored to it's limit, and the LS3 will perform better, and block have overbore options for the future if need be.
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:26 PM
  #40  
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Default Iron Block

Best bang for buck and power is the 6.0 Iron block made to a 408 or so.
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