sstonebreaker

I recently bought a 2007 C6 with a Vortech V3 blower on it. The previous owner put a TR6060 transmission and Z06 rear end in it already, but has not upgraded the LS2 other than with a FAST intake and Texas Speed cam. It puts about 670 horsepower to the rear wheels. I was looking at forged shortblocks and the LSA block is around $750 to $1,000 more than the same build with an LS3 block depending on who you buy the short block from. My question is, at what power level / usage type does it make sense to upgrade to the LSA block?

EDIT: Scroll down. Pics of new engine parts.

blackdak318

It doesn't in my opinion. The LSA and LS3 are very similar blocks. If you're talking about upgrading for more power, the only thing worth spending money on block wise is sleeving, or going to an LSX or DART LS Next block. With the right forged parts, the LS3 block has been proven to some pretty impressive RWHP numbers. A good forged LS3 will take you to maxing out that blower for sure.

g23crawler

The lsa has some better options like oil squirters for the pistons and made from a better aluminum. But I wouldn't spend the money on an lsa block personally. A forged LS3 will last longer then the drive train you have now. If you goal is 1200-1400hp then I would consider a debate about which block to get.

sstonebreaker

So you guys think the oil squirters are unnecessary?

Detoxx03

sstonebreaker

OK then. the LS3 it is.

algZO6

save money and forge your current LS2

sstonebreaker

Would if I could... I bought the car on Wednesday 8/29 and hydrolocked the motor on Sunday.

JetstreamGS

sstonebreaker

Driving home from Houston and raining pretty hard. Got a low tire pressure light so I exited the interstate to check. Huge puddle at the bottom of the exit ramp. Was doing OK, water was only about 6 inches deep, until a truck passed me and washed a big wave over the front of the car. Suddenly there was a big bang and the motor died. Pushed the car into a service station and saw this:




There was no way to avoid the water coming off the freeway:




So, I figured I might as well make lemonade...

JetstreamGS

Sorry to hear. Good luck getting her up and running.

g23crawler

Damn that sucks.. Whats your plan with the car? Honestly if that were to happen to me I would go buy and LQ4 for $500-$800 and beat the crap out of it.. They can take 650hp all day long, gap the rings and put in a cam kit and make 800 too. Obviously building a nice ls3 is the way to go but if you're starting from scratch you're looking at a 7K bill to build one. Or spend $1k and have it back and running and save up for a nice 416 stroker for later.

sstonebreaker

Depends on how much the insurance company pays. This is covered under road hazards. I had the car towed to the mechanic yesterday, we'll see what all's broken.

stevieturbo

Depends what you use the car for and how hard you drive it. They are a good thing to have....which is why GM fitted them to their boosted builds.

but for just the occasional blast, short duration runs...probably no need or benefit.

ZR1-ab

lsx ftw

stevieturbo

For 6-700hp ? No

JetstreamGS

sstonebreaker

I wonder if the oil squirters are necessary because of the cast pistons? Or maybe because the dry sump doesn't sling enough oil off the crank?

Unreal

Agreed with Stevie, LSX is a HORRIBLE idea.

Stock ls2 or ls3 block is great for <800-900hp.

stevieturbo

It's not a case of either. They're just a damn good thing to have on a boosted engine.

And there'd be the same amount of oil slinging off the crank whether wet sump, LS semi dry/wet sump or proper dry sump.

Recovery of that oil after may differ though, but that's a different topic