Congrats on the purchase. You’ll love your car after this.
First off, buy the Racetronix FP harness and BAP.
Secondly, don’t waste time with the 93mm, go with either the 90mm or even an 87mm. You want to aim for around 7-8psi of boost (with the stock cam) which is where this blower wakes up.
It will take you a couple of days for you to install it, proceeding carefully. The hardest and most time consuming and aggravating part of the install is going to be when you have to install the two rearmost bolts in the lid, both of which go in from the bottom. You need to keep the coil bracket off and go from the right side and snake your forearm in behind the blower and the firewall and you need to use a 1/4” drive 10mm shallow socket on a 1/4” ratchet (this is necessary, since the bolts go into a recess with a shoulder around the hole that prohibits the use of a wrench to tighten them - unless you use a very small wrench or some kind of box end wrench that can stay on the boot head when you tighten the bolt). Remember to use blue lock tire on these bolts and snug them down in sequence and then when the other bolts are torqued, pull those two down as hard as you can - because you’re not going to get enough force on the ratchet to wring them off and you’re sure as hell not going to get a torque wrench in there. If you have large forearms, try to find a friend that you don’t mind losing who doesn’t have large forearms, just to do this job, lol.
If there’s a flaw in the design of this blower, it’s those those two bolts. As far as doing by yourself is concerned, I did mine, by myself, but you really need help lifting that blower into position, because that sucker is heavy and you have to lean over the car and hold it up and ease it down while aligning it. Not good for the back. Or you can do it yourself and just make an appointment with a back doctor from now.
Believe it or not, once you’ve figured out how to pull the rack, the hardest part will be getting the bolt holes to line up when you’re putting it back in. No ****. I really fought with mine the first time I pulled it out to pin the stock HB. By the time I did the cam change and installed the IW balancer, it was already a lot easier. When it pulled it the third time (because I phuqued up and installed the crank snout seal backwards), it took me like 20-30 minutes to pull the rack out. How did I do it? From the top of the car, standing over the nose, with the hood removed, with my car lowered down on the lift. Yes, I know, I used a lift, but I did all this with the car set in position at a height that was equivalent to being on jack stands. First I used a bungee and wrapped it around all of the hoses etc. on the passenger side and pulled them up out of the way and hung them there (because they truly make your life difficult when pulling the rack the way I did). Then, after letting go the tie rod ends and pulling the two rack bolts and the steering shaft and hard lines and moving them out of the way, I leaned over the front of the car, lift and twisted the rack until I could shove it as far as it would go over to the passenger side, rested it down, then took the left side tie rod and pulled it upwards so it was pointing in the air and, holding on to that so it would drop on the fender, I used the other hand to lift the rack right out by angling it and pulling it up and over the left fender. I couldn’t believe it myself that it was that easy. I believe I posted pictures and did a bit of write up on the monster hijacked Magnuson Heartbeat thread.
Hope that helps. You can always shoot me a PM or post back on here if you have any questions. Good luck.