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Don't guess on this step. You can order custom pushrods for the exact length you need.
Also, while the motor is out, I would not use a OEM balancer. It'll eventually fail and likely sooner rather than later.
I have a "new" ATI balancer for the wet sump for sale. Hit me up if you're interested.
It has a new powerbond balancer hopefully works considering its low price tag.
As far as push rod length i guess i should rephrase i am not guessing i measured. The issue just is that comp wants you to basically have 0 preload with these lifters. But this does not work in the real world due to thermal expansion you have to have some preload when cold so when it warms up you end up near 0 or they will end up being too short. This is not a situation you normally run into with ls7s or morels because you preload those a pretty good amount and have alot bigger of tolerance so the .025 increments you can order a push rod in are fine.
It has a new powerbond balancer hopefully works considering its low price tag.
As far as push rod length i guess i should rephrase i am not guessing i measured. The issue just is that comp wants you to basically have 0 preload with these lifters. But this does not work in the real world due to thermal expansion you have to have some preload when cold so when it warms up you end up near 0 or they will end up being too short. This is not a situation you normally run into with ls7s or morels because you preload those a pretty good amount and have alot bigger of tolerance so the .025 increments you can order a push rod in are fine.
Gotcha! Yeah, that balancer should be fine. Looked stock from the angle.
What model lifters are they? 0 preload sounds wrong.
Gotcha! Yeah, that balancer should be fine. Looked stock from the angle.
What model lifters are they? 0 preload sounds wrong.
These are them. They are a limited travel lifter so while a ls7 can plunge around .2 these are around .06 of travel internally. The idea is that they are a level between a solid and normal hydraulic lifter i believe. I do not have much knowledge beyond that though sadly still alot to learn.
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/co...r-lifters.html
Was just transferring sensors between the ls7 and the new block and found that the knock sensor threaded holes are different sizes. (bigger on the new one) so now i have to debate rather i am going to run knock sensors or not if yes then i need to drill and do a insert into each side of the new block. I am leaning towards no knock sensor it will be a e85 only car.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 12-24-2018 at 01:31 PM.
These are them. They are a limited travel lifter so while a ls7 can plunge around .2 these are around .06 of travel internally. The idea is that they are a level between a solid and normal hydraulic lifter i believe. I do not have much knowledge beyond that though sadly still alot to learn.
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/co...r-lifters.html
Was just transferring sensors between the ls7 and the new block and found that the knock sensor threaded holes are different sizes. (bigger on the new one) so no i have to debate rather i am going to run knock sensors or not if yes then i need to drill and do a insert into each side of the new block. I am leaning towards no knock sensor it will be a e85 only car.
Looked it up real quick. Comp says 0 - 1/4" turn. People are suggesting 0.008" - 0.010" of preload from zero lash.
Looked it up real quick. Comp says 0 - 1/4" turn. People are suggesting 0.008" - 0.010" of preload from zero lash.
Yeah thats about what i was reading some set the 005 to .01 but was not enough when it got warm, others were doing .02 on customer cars ect. My math ended up at 7.275 being a tiny bit lose just under zero so maybe 7.280-7.285 or so being perfect zero (cant really measure small amounts like that). So the next size pushrod that is a option is a 7.30 which would be similar amount of preload to what others were using. I do not think you can get these perfect without having adjustable rockers.
And found a my answer to the knock sensor i will just use a thread insert to bring the ID down to a m6 and then throw the knock sensors on. Amazon prime sure makes life alot easier.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 12-24-2018 at 02:07 PM.
Ordering my boost controller today just waiting on a text back on someone as to if we should trigger both aux pumps at one level or if they should be staggered so i can order the correct amount of relay/drivers with it.
Decided on the cortex boost controller with the 3 port.
After some research and a email or two nothing else out there offers what this unit can do outside of a standalone ecu. I will be using it to not only control the boost but also trigger the fuel pumps under any rpm/speed/tps/boost configuration we give it. It will also have map switching and full boost by gear. Then to top it off the output from my wideband will be sent to the controller so if it leans out under set conditions it will be able to cut the boost to wastegate. It will grab speed/rpm directly from the ecu ect. Very excited for this.
boost controller is ordered and motor is in the car ...i am actually amazed about the amount of time i spent trying to get it in without dropping the subframe vs the amount of time it took me to drop the subframe it and just get it in.
Some things are changing after some thought s and research the last two days. Nitrous is getting pulled this weekend. We are going to make the turbo fit under the hood and go to a civic half radiator. This sounds crazy but between Michigan being pretty cool there being little to no traffic around me and only living like 5 min from work it makes sense. I did some math and if I’m not missing something it will be about 70% internal size of the stock radiator we will just do our best to shroud it well and route air to it. Below is a very poor picture of what the plan is brown is turbo and routing of exhaust green radiator and yellow is my intercooler.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 01-03-2019 at 10:09 AM.
Why not just do like cx racing kit and lean the radiator forward and put the turbo behind it?
Two reasons one i am a big fan of how the blower intercoolers on these cars route the piping stright up and center. Reason 2 i already have the intercooler, brackets, and pipe that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body with the correct maf flange and such. It will be a pretty big investment to switch to the cx racing style at this point. Like i said i think i can make it work with a small radiator. It is mostly open roads here with 55mph speed limits and no lights. I am only like 5 min from the highway that takes me to the racetrack and 5 min from the meeting spot where people go racing ect. Where i live right now is oddly convenient for work/car stuff.
We are going to make the turbo fit under the hood and go to a civic half radiator. This sounds crazy but between Michigan being pretty cool there being little to no traffic around me and only living like 5 min from work it makes sense. I did some math and if I’m not missing something it will be about 70% internal size of the stock radiator we will just do our best to shroud it well and route air to it.
Sounds like its worth a shot...just get a "performance core" version. I think a Mishimoto runs under $200 for one.
Im trying to understand that beautiful drawing of yours haha. Is the plan to route drivers side hot pipe forward or behind the bellhousing?
It was poorly done on my phone for sure. Basically driver side goes back and down around the bellhousing. Then up into a log style manifold on the passenger side. From there it will be hung forward (or forward and down depending).
Lots done so far this weekend. Had to pull the heads to fix a stupid mistake of mine.
Roughly mounted the intercooler and spaced down the radiator subframe to avoid purchasing the procharger one for $400.
Pulled the old nitrous kit and lnc2000 and sold both within a couple min of posting them on facebook.
My boost controller comes tomorrow so i made some diagrams of how i will be setting things up. To make everything more clean and less sketchy i will be adding a small fuse box under the dash in the passenger footwell or in the trunk of the car in the cubby not taken by the battery. This will be for any added switched 12v things done to the car. I just hate the idea of tapping into 1000 things when i can just do one nice tap to a relay to power a new fuse box from the battery. This will also make adding any future items very easy and clean.
Got to check out how my cold side piping will be. Looks like more then likely it will need some cutting and welding to fit under the hood since i did not drop or angle the intercooler exactly how the procharger cradle does.
Ordering my boost controller today just waiting on a text back on someone as to if we should trigger both aux pumps at one level or if they should be staggered so i can order the correct amount of relay/drivers with it.
Decided on the cortex boost controller with the 3 port.
After some research and a email or two nothing else out there offers what this unit can do outside of a standalone ecu. I will be using it to not only control the boost but also trigger the fuel pumps under any rpm/speed/tps/boost configuration we give it. It will also have map switching and full boost by gear. Then to top it off the output from my wideband will be sent to the controller so if it leans out under set conditions it will be able to cut the boost to wastegate. It will grab speed/rpm directly from the ecu ect. Very excited for this.
I looked up that boost controller. You get a lot for the money, for sure. I have it bookmarked.
Build is coming along man. Looking forward to more updates.
Slowly chipping away.
Here is the injectors with the adapters for both height and electrical and tossed them on now that the rail arrived.
Started on my switched 12v fusebox which also has the relay/driver for the extra fuel pumps. There is alot of work to go on this so dont judge too hard yet. This will fit into the extra compartment in the trunk.
The biggest thing i got done the last few days is this mounting of the cortex ebcs. Took some cutting, grinding, and jb weld. I am not 100% happy with it but overall think it will look good once its in the car.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 01-10-2019 at 10:34 PM.
Sadly not as much done as I would have liked to this weekend so far. But did get more done on the fusebox/controllers. The DSX e38 ecu is also installed and wires tapped for rpm/vss for the ebcs. The interior is about 100% put together and wires ran from the front to about mid car just need to pop another panel to get it under the carpet and to the box in back but that should be a easy one.
12-24-2018, 12:28 PM
