Ancient Warrior

Does anyone have the Pid expression to read boost in tenths off the zr1 map?

schpenxel

((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)

set to 1 decimal place when you set up the PID

That is assuming you're using a MAP sensor on the car that is capable of reading boost

If you're trying to setup a separate sensor that connects directly to dash logic, then that is something else entirely

Credit to Streetk14 for the formula

Ancient Warrior

Thanks for the reply.
I tried to use (pid(30001) ) with 1 decimal place and it seems to work fine.
Matches the one you gave me.
I also set the IAT alarm to 140 ° but it might be too low.

schpenxel

Sounds good!

Yeah not sure on that IAT.. just depends on the setup

Nosferatu

so I have a 3 bar MAP sensor installed that reads boost to no decimal place (e.g. 8psi, 9psi, etc.). If I use this formula I'll get it to one decimal place (e.g. 8.4psi, 9.2psi, etc.)??? I'l have to try this later.

Since this is a new DashLogic thread, does anyone have any other cool tips/hints for formulas to throw into it for readings?

I tried getting the fuel economy to adjust to no success. It reads abnormally great fuel economy because the stock ECU has no clue the car is running larger injectors. I tried doing something like (0.75 X (whatever PID is fuel economy)) but that didn't do anything.

Ancient Warrior

In the menu choose calculation pids, use one of the above expressions, and enter one decimal place, which I believe is the default and boost will read in tenth.
The expression for .75 times your fuel economy should look something like this: (pid(1506)*.75) I think.

schpenxel

Yeah.. that formula worked great for me, so that should work. I liked having 1 decimal place

You should be able to get the fuel economy pretty close by setting up a custom PID or whatever they call it and multiplying their reported MPG PID by whatever factor you come up with that will make it match reality. I'd just figure out how far the factory long term MPG is off vs. what you actually get out of a tank and use that as a correct factor of sorts.

I also set ones up for fuel trims.. so there's a total fuel trim for bank 1 (long and short), then a total for bank 2 (long and short). I'll get you the formulas later but you can look through the PID list and figure them out pretty easy

Then I've got one that compares commanded lambda (or AFR) to actual and shows the error. Right now it's based on 1.00 being dead on.. higher and it's running lean, lower is running richer. You could change it to % or something though if that's easier to read

So, yeah, that's what I've done with mine so far.

marathon

Anyone know why my Dashlogic unit would be reporting oil temps as much as 20* lower than the OEM DIC. Same for coolant temps also.

schpenxel

No, that is pretty strange

I'm going to assume it's using the right units, yes?

marathon

Yes, set for F. I unplugged the unit several times while driving to see if it was some kind of timing issue but it always shows the difference. I sent an email to Palmer and will report what they tell me.

schpenxel

That's strange. Hopefully they respond. You might try checking to see if there is a firmware update or anything like that that you could install

marathon

Here's the very quick response:

The numbers we get are straight from the OBD-II port, we do not know why, but we have seen they don't always match the cluster on the Z51/Z06/ZR1/ and GS cars. You will see at certain points they will, but the farther they get from that, the more off they are. We know that those cars have a physical oil temp sensor, where the other cars use an estimated oil temp PID. The only thing on the OBD-II port is the estimated oil PID, so the base cars see exactly what we see, but the performance models get to see just how far off the estimated temps can be. You can try this firmware, it will allow you to put a page as blank so you can let the factory value show through on that page.

Unreal

Others reported that with all OBD2 scanners/gauges. The DIC reads different than what is being put out. People think the car is doing some mumbo jumbo to the DIC display.

Dash logic just presenting the same data HP tuners or any other logger would show.

Nosferatu

haha so the base model is good for something yay!!!

Anyways thanks for the help. I "think" the formula worked. We'll see I'm in the middle of a tank and don't want to reset it just yet (for fuel economy). I set it to 75% of what it normally reads for a start.

Also, thanks for the precision value changes now my boost pressure reads in 3.7psi instead of 4psi. I like it being more accurate.

schpenxel

Good deal

I like the 1 decimal version better too

mittens

VERY sorry to bump at old thread..... please don't flame me....

I understand the (pid(30001) part but what exactly does the thing need to show to make it read boost with a tenth? is it just the space and the extra ) For example " Boost/Vac: (pid(30001) )" vs how it currently is " Boost/Vac: (pid(30001)"

or where do I put the . at in the formula?

I know how to get tot he formulat and edit it in the software.


EDIT I found info off another place... I think what I need is " {Boost/Vac: pid(30001:4.1) psi " this should have my lable, "Boost/Vac", and the " :4 " after the pid will pad the boost reading so when it moves form 2.2 psi (3 characters total) to 12.4 Psi (4 characters total) the text does not shift on the screen, and the " .1 " will show the reading in tenths.

schpenxel

I just did a new PID, custom PID, whatever they call it, referenced the included PID for boost and change the decimals to 1 for the custom one. But, your way sounds better if it stops the text from moving around.. mine moves when it goes from 3 to 4 digits

mittens

schpenxel

Good deal, I'll give something like that a try next time I have it hooked up